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Author Topic: Do I need a relay & fuse on an electric fuel valve??  (Read 970 times)
Longlivedixie
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« on: May 25, 2019, 04:37:51 PM »

I am hooking up a new electric fuel valve to my Interstate. It opens when energized.

Do need a relay hooked in-line on the hot wire?? I was going to simply hook up a in-line fuse......but I am not sure if I need either one of those. Or do I need both?? What chu' think??

I am not interested in a switch or an indicator for the full valve......I just wanna go straight to a proper hot wire that energizes when the key is turned.

THANKS for your input!!

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gordonv
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VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #1 on: May 25, 2019, 05:00:51 PM »

I would think basic electrical. What is the amp draw of the valve? If it's high, then you want a relay to bring direct power to it from the battery. Low, then you're fine.

How about a search for Dan Marc (fuel shot off of choice) and see what others have done.
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Longlivedixie
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Southern by the Grace of Almighty GOD!!


« Reply #2 on: May 25, 2019, 05:19:01 PM »

I would think basic electrical. What is the amp draw of the valve? If it's high, then you want a relay to bring direct power to it from the battery. Low, then you're fine.

How about a search for Dan Marc (fuel shot off of choice) and see what others have done.

Well, actually, it is not a Dan Marc. It is one of these Echotech's.

It says this on the specs:

300 mA max while ball is turning (30mA max when held in open position)

Internal micro-switches stop current flow to motor when open/closed positions are reached


https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-Motorized-Ball-Valve-Brass-9-V-12-to-24-VDC-VAC-2-wire-N-C-Normally-Closed/301651165722?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I did search some of the later Dan Marc threads, but I see so much differing installs and thoughts regarding the install, I thought I would ask my questions directly>

Obviously I know little about electrics, but I am thinking a person would almost certainly want a fuse. Assuming that is true, I am wondering mostly about if there is a need for a relay, or would it make no difference??

Thanks!!
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JimC
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SE Wisconsin


« Reply #3 on: May 25, 2019, 05:31:30 PM »

With that small of a load you can definitely get by with an in line fuse, 2, 3 5 amp? no need for a relay.

Let us know how the install goes with that valve. I like how that operates better than the DanMarc, but I was not sure I would have room for it under the air box.

Jim
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Jim Callaghan    SE Wisconsin
MarkT
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« Reply #4 on: May 25, 2019, 06:18:03 PM »

If you use the Bl/wh wire off the kill sw - same wire at the coils and ECM - as the source, you will power it with the key, at the same time get fuel shutoff if the bike tips over.  Put a fuse inline before the solenoid in any case, no matter the power source.  I like that solenoid, how it works and I'd use it if I was newly wiring in a solenoid now.
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Longlivedixie
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Southern by the Grace of Almighty GOD!!


« Reply #5 on: May 25, 2019, 06:37:41 PM »

With that small of a load you can definitely get by with an in line fuse, 2, 3 5 amp? no need for a relay.

Let us know how the install goes with that valve. I like how that operates better than the DanMarc, but I was not sure I would have room for it under the air box.

Jim

Oh OK......very good. I will fuse her up.

I am hoping with my desmog I have produced the room needed. I think just rotating the box downward will do the trick.

Appreciate it!
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Longlivedixie
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Southern by the Grace of Almighty GOD!!


« Reply #6 on: May 25, 2019, 06:45:18 PM »

If you use the Bl/wh wire off the kill sw - same wire at the coils and ECM - as the source, you will power it with the key, at the same time get fuel shutoff if the bike tips over.  Put a fuse inline before the solenoid in any case, no matter the power source.  I like that solenoid, how it works and I'd use it if I was newly wiring in a solenoid now.


Thanks a bunch Mark!! Yes, that is the way to go! I will do that.

Yes, I am gonna install an in-line fuse.

I also converted my petcock to mechanical. I was not real sure about which way to turn the #2 diaphragm though. The original direction or reversed?? I think I got everything else understood and done. I used this as my guide:

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php?topic=37577.0

Appreciate it!



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Paladin528
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« Reply #7 on: May 27, 2019, 09:53:12 AM »

Where are you taking the power from?  Mine is wired into the ignition circuit so it energizes as soon as the ingnition is turned on.  That circuit is already protected by a fuse.  No point double fusing it if thats the case.
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Jersey
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VRCC #37540

Southern Maryland


« Reply #8 on: May 27, 2019, 02:01:40 PM »

If you have a VOM you might want to verify the current draw when open.  When it comes to amperage always good just to make sure... specially if you're combining with the ignition circuit fuse.
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Jersey
Longlivedixie
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« Reply #9 on: May 28, 2019, 03:54:37 PM »

Where are you taking the power from?  Mine is wired into the ignition circuit so it energizes as soon as the ingnition is turned on.  That circuit is already protected by a fuse.  No point double fusing it if thats the case.


Yes, that would work, but I think I will do it the way Mark spoke of so if it is ever tipped over, the fuel valve will close.

Thanks for your input!
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Longlivedixie
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Southern by the Grace of Almighty GOD!!


« Reply #10 on: May 28, 2019, 03:56:27 PM »

If you have a VOM you might want to verify the current draw when open.  When it comes to amperage always good just to make sure... specially if you're combining with the ignition circuit fuse.

Good idea!  The valve works fine when testing it. But yes, a good idea to test the current draw.  Thanks!
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