Led Voltmeter on IS

[Valkorado]

I have a LED Voltmeter that's been sitting around for a couple seasons.   I'd like to install it on the the Interstate,  but would prefer to find a hot wire up front inside the fairing to power it on and off with the key.   It's just a two wire positive/negative setup so it should be easy,  but it seems electrical stuff never is for me.       Suggestions?  Pictures would help!

[Bagger John - #3785]

There isn't a spare female bullet in the fairing area, as there is under the right side cover (for the 5A Accessory connection).

You'll have to tap into the existing wiring. I'd do it with an inline adapter and take power from the instrument lighting circuit if possible. Don't use a vampire tap or similar connector that may allow moisture ingress into the harness.

If you have a Power Plate, Fuse Block or similar switched accessory power unit, the best way is to monitor the normally open side of the relay...the power bus. This is as close as you can get to the battery and still have the unit turn off with the key. Run a dedicated two-wire line (sleeved, or molded insulation) from the bus to your voltmeter.

This is how every one of my Valks has been "plumbed".

[Valkorado]

Thanks John.   Looks like a fuse block will be the way to go.   That way I get our his/hers heated jacket connections off the battery terminals too...  So most blocks have a "hot"  and "cold"  side?

Was just looking.   It appears that most inexpensive blocks do not have the "keyed"  feature.   Are there any blocks with a keyed side that have a simple direct battery connection?   I'm trying to avoid splicing and soldering as much as possible.

[Bagger John - #3785]

So most blocks have a "hot"  and "cold"  side?

Yes. Separate fused circuits on the "hot", an unswitched "hot" (for connection of a Battery Tender or the like) and a common ground ("cold").

As an example, the Fuse Blocks I use for my C14s have a 30A master fuse, 5 relay-switched positions (each with its own fuse slot) and 1 unswitched (ditto the fuse slot). By way of a Powerlet connector and Battery Tender adapter, I use the latter position to trickle-charge the batteries when the bikes are parked for long periods...as there's a direct connection to the battery this way.

Everything else is run from the switched connections, and the relay trigger is taken from the "Acc" connector (which most bikes have).

[Valkorado]

What brand of keyed fuse block is best, cost and small size being considerations?

[Chrisj CMA]

You will get a much more accurate reading if you run a wire direct to the battery. You can tap into or establish any ground.  

[Valkorado]

Electric stuff is like a strange magic to me,  so forgive the question.   If I direct connect would the meter always stay on?   I know I'm missing something here...

[Bagger John - #3785]

You will get a much more accurate reading if you run a wire direct to the battery. You can tap into or establish any ground.  

The problem here is...the LED voltmeter won't turn off if wired directly. And the relay-switched power-distribution method (w/ direct connection to battery positive and negative) solves this.

[Bagger John - #3785]

What brand of keyed fuse block is best, cost and small size being considerations?

Look at the offerings from The Electrical Connection and Fuzeblocks.

You want a switched unit. Marine (waterproof) versions are another possibility, depending on overall size.

I prefer units with spade-lug or fork-terminal (screw) connections. The FZ-1 is so small you have to use bare wires inserted into pinch-stye retainers. Be mindful of lead dress and insulation if you go with these.

[Valkorado]

Thanks.   I've got some homework to do.

OK,  I'm answering my own questions and coming up with more.   It looks like the cheap blocks only have a + and -  connection and what I need has those and also a switched source connection (three connections).   So, what wire on the Valk would be best to use for the switched source connection?

[Bagger John - #3785]

So, what wire on the Valk would be best to use for the switched source connection?

Under the right side cover - in the larger plastic boot - are a pair of wires with female bullet connectors. One's black with white stripe (+); the other is green (ground).

These are "Acc power" at key-on. Use them to trigger the relay on your distribution block. (Fuzeblock's site has a nice schematic pictorial of how to wire it up).

You still want direct connections to the battery for the main positive and negative wires to the block. Don't rely on the bike's existing wiring harness for this.

[SCain]

You will get a much more accurate reading if you run a wire direct to the battery. You can tap into or establish any ground.  

I was going to suggest this, I don't think you want the volt meter going through other circuitry on the bike, direct to the battery.

[Bagger John - #3785]

You will get a much more accurate reading if you run a wire direct to the battery. You can tap into or establish any ground.  

I was going to suggest this, I don't think you want the volt meter going through other circuitry on the bike, direct to the battery.

This will not work with an always-on style of voltmeter. You'll do nothing but drain your battery.

[SCain]

You will get a much more accurate reading if you run a wire direct to the battery. You can tap into or establish any ground.  

I was going to suggest this, I don't think you want the volt meter going through other circuitry on the bike, direct to the battery.

This will not work with an always-on style of voltmeter. You'll do nothing but drain your battery.

Thats why I put a switch to ground, otherwise you will drain your battery.

[Oss]

mine is on the fog light circuit
fog lite button in back of  left pod  voltmeter in right one

shows 2 green lights at 14+ volts
when bike running 

 works for me

bonus is when its lit while parked I know I forgot to turn off the key

When my alt died it let me know in enough time that I could get almost home
(If I remembered to take out fuse for headlight I would have made it)

[Chrisj CMA]

You will get a much more accurate reading if you run a wire direct to the battery. You can tap into or establish any ground.  

I was going to suggest this, I don't think you want the volt meter going through other circuitry on the bike, direct to the battery.

This will not work with an always-on style of voltmeter. You'll do nothing but drain your battery.

Thats why I put a switch to ground, otherwise you will drain your battery.

Ya me too. I put a switch in the ground wire. Comes in handy because I can turn it on and check battery voltage when the key is off

[Chrisj CMA]

mine is on the fog light circuit
fog lite button in back of  left pod  voltmeter in right one

shows 2 green lights at 14+ volts
when bike running 

 works for me

bonus is when its lit while parked I know I forgot to turn off the key

When my alt died it let me know in enough time that I could get almost home
(If I remembered to take out fuse for headlight I would have made it)

You won’t forget to turn off the key if you start turning off the engine with the key instead of the kill switch or kick stand.

[Valkorado]

Thanks for the ideas guys.   I hate electrical wiring stuff,  was even considering something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Moeye-circuit-Adapter-Blade-Holder/dp/B071HQ1VTZ?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ftas-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B071HQ1VTZ

I know not the best option for sure,  but it could be a quick way to get it up and running for now.   The meter is such low draw I'm pretty sure I could get away with it.

[mello dude]

You will get a much more accurate reading if you run a wire direct to the battery. You can tap into or establish any ground.  

I have had to screw with (fix) one too many charging systems on motorcycles (my own and others), so I do like to add a voltmeter to the bike.

I wire it direct to the battery every time. That is, with an on/off switch in the loop and a fuse to the POS battery side on its own circuit--- Why? --- Because when I want to ride, I want to know my battery is good, before  I start the bike. Why? If the battery is down, I still have a shot at doing something about it...  So start up goes... meter switch on..... volts good? yes? Start bike. -----obviously shut down goes bike switch off, meter switch off....
The alternative is to wire to ignition or to relay in the key circuit of some such. What's the draw back in that? Well..... if your battery is a problem and you power to start, you are already pulling more Volts out of the circuit with headlights and startup. You have even less chance of getting out of trouble.

For grins.. a photo of my VFR setup.


Also recently I bought one off Amazon, it has the switch built in. Havent decided where to use it yet, but I like it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HCQRHTD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And some silly sh!t -- @ChrisJ CMA -- great minds think alike.. Seems like over time if you own motorcycles long enuff, you become a motorcycle electrician...  

[MarkT]

Just to add my "expertise" to this thread I agree the voltmeter needs it's own circuit off the battery to be accurate, and needs to be switched so a switched relay dedicated to the meter is ideal.  Personally I run a Escort Passport which has a very accurate voltmeter on it's own circuit, but not switched so I can see the volts w/o it running.  I have never forgotten to switch it off at the end of the day as the display is bright and very obvious, while the unit is often beeping at me to remind me it's on.  This voltmeter informed me the alternator was failing on my return from Roanoke last year, such that I could take steps to prevent the bike stopping on the road.  Namely, switched off the powerful halogen fwd lights before they drained the battery down to nothing.  For the last 50 miles I was getting only 11 volts meaning the alternator was not keeping up but the battery was dying.  Bonus, I move the Passport to all my vehicles so I monitor the volts on all of them.

[mello dude]

I've considered a relay in the jobs I've done, but since the meters are more in the millivolt range and space is a premium I've gone without.

[Bagger John - #3785]

I've considered a relay in the jobs I've done, but since the meters are more in the millivolt range and space is a premium I've gone without.

The one thing you have on a Valkyrie is space. 

There's also a reason why the automotive and motorcycle OEMs wire their gauges the way they do...that is, activation with key-on.

Where a direct-connection arrangement would come in handy is where one uses a lead to the battery for something like a charger or heated clothing (assuming a power distribution module hasn't been installed). A small LED/LCD voltmeter w/ mating plug can be carried, plugged in and used to verify battery level before starting. The permanently mounted meter indicates running (post-start) conditions vis battery and charging system.