Is it possible to change the rear brake pads w/o pulling the wheel?

[John Schmidt]

I got the caliper off 'cuz I wanted to rebuild it. All back together but reinstalling it may be another story. I was able to get it off by backing out the rear stud which uses a 12mm open end wrench. And next by pulling the pin out part way, the one that anchors the pads at the rear. That allowed the inner pad to drop down enough to lift the caliper off but I'm thinking I may lose my religion trying to reverse that approach. The biggest problem as I see it will be getting the inside pad locked into position at the front, should be able to insert the pin at the back once the rear stud is at least started. Any suggestions based on personal  experience? I've changed the pads in the past when the wheel was out but have no desire to do that at this point.

[WintrSol]

As you surmise, it is tedious, and you have to have plenty of 'magic' words handy, but I've done it (once).

[sandy]

Absolutely it can be done. You don't have to remove the caliper either. 1; Check the fluid level so it won't overflow. 2; Using a screwdriver, pry the pads/pistons back into the caliper. 3; Remove the set screw plug. 4; remove the pin (allen head). The pads pull out the back. 5; Insert the left pad and the pin partway to hold it in place. Insert the right pad and finish inserting the pin. The pin and set screw should have never seize to prevent corrosion.

[mello dude]

Sounds like John already pulled off the caliper for rebuilding...

 > I think you need to remount the caliper back on with the brake plate first, no pads...
 Then unfortunately have to finagle the piston side pad into the front pad locator groove and hold it with the pin. Probably some fine words are needed. Then the same with the inner pad.

[John Schmidt]

OK, the suggestions are what I figured was the process, just wanted to see if my thinker muscle was properly engaged. Headed out now to see if my mechanical expertise is still functional. Stay tuned. 

[John Schmidt]

Woohoo, got it. It literally took me five minutes and got both pads in place on the first try. Couldn't believe it so got out my inspection mirror for a closer look and the front ends are in the groove. Guess it pays to go to church on Sunday.     

With new rubbers for the mounting bolts and everything nice and clean it all went together easier than it came out. Feels so good I might just treat myself and go out for supper.

[mello dude]

OK, the suggestions are what I figured was the process, just wanted to see if my thinker muscle was properly engaged. Headed out now to see if my mechanical expertise is still functional. Stay tuned.  

John - with the picture of your bike there, I think there is no doubt about your mechanical expertise..  
Glad you got it together.
Cheers..

[..]

Feels so good I might just treat myself and go out for supper.

Whatever happened you still needed to go out and treat yourself. 

[John Schmidt]

Feels so good I might just treat myself and go out for supper.

Whatever happened you still needed to go out and treat yourself. 

And I did just that. Stopped at O'Reilly parts to pick up some spare crush washers for next time and then went to Perkins for a bite to eat. Beats eating my own cooking for sure.

Some time back I found some crush washers that fit the Valk, it's on one of those "Help" displays with a Dorman brand name and p/n 66272. Only two to a pack and pricey but when you need them the cost kinda takes a back seat. The ID is 25/64" and OD is 5/8"....fits great and are copper type. The 25/64 computes to .3906" which equals just over 9.9mm, the Valk's bolts for hydraulics are 10mm. I usually get them in bunches from JP Cycles when I take a ride over to Daytona, believe they're only $1 ea.