Engine runs really hot

[Asian Redneck]

I bought my 98 standard last year in September and found that the engine gets really hot.
I had all the fluids changed out at the dealership including the coolant.
Two things happened, the cap seemed to leak as I had coolant all over the right side and seemed like it was heating up quite a bit. I checked to see if the fan came on and it did.
Do these bikes tend to run hot? Temp outside was about 85.
appreciate any advice.

[WintrSol]

Hot is a matter of perspective. The thermostat should be open around 180-185, and the fan comes on at about 210 or so. While this is a normal range for a water-cooled engine, with it sitting right below and in front of you, it can feel pretty hot when sitting still, especially when you add in the exhaust. The layout and size of the engine is a factor, too. Moving, heat from the radiator heats your lower legs when your feet are on the main pegs, and the valve covers can sting your ankles when using highway pegs. It's all relative, though. My old CB450 gets pretty hot (air-oil cooled), but because it is so much smaller, you have to sit over it longer to roast.

[hubcapsc]

How hot is "really hot"?

I changed out my coolant a while back, and followed the instructions
in the manual to burp out any air in the system, I guess the shop did that
part right?

If your cap is leaking, that needs fixed... 19045-MY3-621 - $26...

These bike don't run hot, they run fine day after 100 degree day...

-Mike

[Gryphon Rider]

Leaking rad caps can be fixed by slightly bending the tabs that grip the radiator neck.

How do you determine "really hot"?

[Valkorado]

I remember when I bought the Silver Bullet in SLC,  and rode her home through the Utah desert in triple digit heat.  Thought I was saddled to a smoldering Kingsford charcoal!   Yeah,  it was "really hot"  in comparison to the V-twin Shadow I had been riding.  Of course,  part of that ride I was pushing the bike down the Interstate.  

Also, you might check the the thin rubber piece (someone will know what they call 'em)  around the radiator - -  some are missing or reinstalled incorrectly.   They are designed to block hot air flow from the radiator and front of engine directly to the rider.

[Bagger John - #3785]

I installed water temperature gauges on 4 of my 5 Valkyries.

Both Tourers and both Interstates show/showed 185 degrees F when ridden on flat ground @ highway speeds and an ambient temperature of 80 degrees F. Increase the ambient to 90+ F, run them up very long inclines (especially with a passenger) and I'd see water temps get close to 200 degrees F.

The fans kicked on at 225-230 degrees F indicated.

Air Wings and the rubber engine deflector being in place helped with driver comfort, particularly above 35MPH or so. I'd say these bikes run "warm" but you shouldn't see temperatures so great that the fan is constantly on, or the oil begins to break down.

[Chrisj CMA]

You will learn how to work on your Valkyrie more and more if you keep taking it to the Dealership. Fixing what they mess up or put back together wrong is the usual story. Get a repair manual (Honda preferably) and ask a lot of questions in this forum. As far as running hot, if the over temp light didn’t come on it’s probably normal on a warm day.

[Jess from VA]

There is a Tel Tru temperature gauge you can buy to replace the dipstick.

There is no wiring or mechanics involved.

As long as your bike is under (or at) 220 (and your fan and thermostat are working), you are OK.  Measuring heat at the radiator and not the oil may be a bit better, but not enough to worry about.

I have them on both my bikes.  You can look down and read them.

They come with 2 size gauge heads, 1 3/4" and 2".  I prefer the two inch, but with the Kuryakyn transmission covers, the edge of the gauge just touched the cover and they are now marked, slightly.

The gauges are marked with an oil line, but I don't use them to check oil, I use the OE plastic one for that (in my toolbox).  They may be accurate enough, I don't know.

You must snug them (only) with a wrench on an Oring, not by grasping the dial head, or you will alter the temp calculation (which can be reset using boiling water; at 212* sea level).  They snug up so they can't be stolen (easily).

This way you don't have to guess.

https://www.teltru.com/s-95-honda-motorcycles.aspx

Mine do not sit as high as in this picture.  Maybe people complained about it hitting the tranny cover, and they made them taller, I dunno.

I placed a sliver of black electrical tape at the 220 degree mark on the dial face, as a benchmark, because I don't wear bifocals to ride.  Looking down while riding or sitting, as long as the temp sweep is below the benchmark, I am good.  I have never hit the benchmark while looking (and I check often in stop and go on hot days).  I will never sit in 90+ degrees at idle for more than a couple minutes.  I'll shut down and restart when I can move.



I don't know for sure, but am thinking good synthetic may run a few degrees cooler than dino. (?)

[98valk]

Thermostat starts to open 176-183F
fully open 203F

so the cooling system is designed for normal operating temp of 203F

fan on 208-216F
fan off 199-207F

[Tfrank59]

I bought my 98 standard last year in September and found that the engine gets really hot.
I had all the fluids changed out at the dealership including the coolant.
Two things happened, the cap seemed to leak as I had coolant all over the right side and seemed like it was heating up quite a bit. I checked to see if the fan came on and it did.
Do these bikes tend to run hot? Temp outside was about 85.
appreciate any advice.

I don't think valks run very hot, I mean I live in the Pacific Northwest and it doesn't hit 85 very often but even when it does my bike never overheats or boils over or anything like that. I could be sitting in 90° weather in miserable Seattle traffic but my bike doesn't overheat--the fan comes on and that is like a blast furnace for the rider but the bike is fine. So I would say you have an issue with your bike, although apparently your hot light's not coming on and I guess your radiator's not overflowing but seems like something is off, just saying.

[Asian Redneck]

Thanks all for your suggestions and advice. I have tried fiddling with the radiator cap with no success, so gave in and ordered a new cap.
I don’t remember if the tech at the dealership burped the radiator after filling the coolant, so I will try that when I am back in September.
On the temperature gauge for the radiator, does that come with a special cap? If someone could post a picture of one, that would be most helpful.
On the radiator rubber damper, I am not familiar with this and not being able to look at the bike where I am doesn’t help. Will check this out too when I am back.
I am going to add lowers which I have waiting to be installed. They are the ones that install on the forks.
When I stored the bike, I filled the tank with ethanol free gas, and added a fuel stabilizer.
I also ran the bike with the fuel off until it stopped running. I did not know that there was a drain screw on the carbs. After reading all the comments on hydrolocking, I am worried that it might happen.

[hubcapsc]

I have tried fiddling with the radiator cap with no success, so gave in and ordered a new cap.

There's a set-screw in the radiator cap you should loosen before you
remove the cap and tighten after you replace the cap...

-Mike

[..]

Thanks all for your suggestions and advice. I have tried fiddling with the radiator cap with no success, so gave in and ordered a new cap.
I don’t remember if the tech at the dealership burped the radiator after filling the coolant, so I will try that when I am back in September.
On the temperature gauge for the radiator, does that come with a special cap? If someone could post a picture of one, that would be most helpful.
On the radiator rubber damper, I am not familiar with this and not being able to look at the bike where I am doesn’t help. Will check this out too when I am back.
I am going to add lowers which I have waiting to be installed. They are the ones that install on the forks.
When I stored the bike, I filled the tank with ethanol free gas, and added a fuel stabilizer.
I also ran the bike with the fuel off until it stopped running. I did not know that there was a drain screw on the carbs. After reading all the comments on hydrolocking, I am worried that it might happen.

When you return to bike. MOVE IT OUTSIDE, Remove spark plug #6. Hit the starter button. If gas shoots out of the spark plug hole you just avoided hydrolock. Do a search on the Tech forum for more information

[Chrisj CMA]

Thanks all for your suggestions and advice. I have tried fiddling with the radiator cap with no success, so gave in and ordered a new cap.
I don’t remember if the tech at the dealership burped the radiator after filling the coolant, so I will try that when I am back in September.
On the temperature gauge for the radiator, does that come with a special cap? If someone could post a picture of one, that would be most helpful.
On the radiator rubber damper, I am not familiar with this and not being able to look at the bike where I am doesn’t help. Will check this out too when I am back.
I am going to add lowers which I have waiting to be installed. They are the ones that install on the forks.
When I stored the bike, I filled the tank with ethanol free gas, and added a fuel stabilizer.
I also ran the bike with the fuel off until it stopped running. I did not know that there was a drain screw on the carbs. After reading all the comments on hydrolocking, I am worried that it might happen.

When you return to bike. MOVE IT OUTSIDE, Remove spark plug #6. Hit the starter button. If gas shoots out of the spark plug hole you just avoided hydrolock. Do a search on the Tech forum for more information

If you’re worried about it being locked. It’s easier to either manually turn the engine at the crank or push it gear. If it won’t turn over, take out all the spark plugs as ANY cylinder can fill with gas not just #6

[RWhitehouse]

Subjectively these bikes can throw a lot of heat off, but overheating is a pretty rare problem. When it does occur, it's usually either a false alarm (the older bikes had a little box just to control the hot light, that box sometimes malfunctions and can make the hot light illuminate or flicker when the temp is still normal), or it's because the fan isn't working in slow traffic.

The tel-tru dipstick is definitely the easiest/cheapest/most reliable way to have a temp gauge. Oil temp is generally slightly higher, and slightly lags behind water temp, but in a liquid cooled engine they stay pretty close. They're about $80 and of course install is as easy as screwing in a dipstick. Mr Gasket does make a rad cap with a temp gauge built in for about $40 that fits, but I decided to pass on this after seeing numerous reports of these leaking. My 21 year old original cap was starting to dribble a bit, leading to dried coolant stains on the upper hose and tank after rides. Just replaced it with a new OEM and the problem vanished.

There's numerous write ups about installing actual water temp gauges if you're interested- there's an unused boss in the thermostat housing you can drill/tap to accept a sensor, or you can splice in a "T" to hold the sensor in a rad hose. Splicing in a "T" is a little easier as you can avoid pulling the carbs to access the thermostat housing. Motosens makes(made?) bolt-on kits specifically for the Valkyrie, little pricey but they look nice. I tried emailing to inquire about an order a few months ago and didn't get any response, so not sure if those are still available or not. Certainly doable, but between the handlebar mounts, gauge pod, installing the sender, and doing all the wiring it's a fair bit of work to monitor a problem that really doesn't exist. I didn't really feel it was worth the expense and hassle and ordered the Tel-Tru instead. I'd always prefer a gauge over a idiot light, but ultimately no light=no worries.

I've never once seen the light, including in a recent 90mph ride down the freeway into Vegas on the hottest day of the year so far (112*). The fan kicked on pretty quick once I got into traffic, but the bike didn't seem to mind.

If you are worried about hydrolocking (it's a legitimate concern), you can opt to pre-emptively rebuild the OEM petcock, or swap it out for a manual Pingle, or add the "Dan Marc" electric solenoid shutoff. I'd also advocate to replace the now ~20 year old float valves, as those are ultimately the root cause of how the fuel gets into the engine, but most people don't want to bother with that as of course it requires pulling the carbs. It's not really that big of a deal though. I didn't mind spending $40 and an afternoon to replace a critical part to reliability. Bike came to me already with a Pingle. I don't mind reaching under and flipping it on and off, became an automatic motion after about a week. But I can see the convenience of the Dan-Marc that just shuts on/off with keyed power.

[Gryphon Rider]

There's numerous write ups about installing actual water temp gauges if you're interested- there's an unused boss in the thermostat housing you can drill/tap to accept a sensor, or you can splice in a "T" to hold the sensor in a rad hose. Splicing in a "T" is a little easier as you can avoid pulling the carbs to access the thermostat housing.

No need to pull the carbs to get to the thermostat housing.  You do need to move the radiator, however, and you should have new O-rings (#11 & #12) handy as the housing (#3) will be removed from the coolant pipes (#5 & #6) and those O-rings can be damaged.  I think I reused the thermostat gasket (square cross-section O-ring).

[Asian Redneck]

I have tried fiddling with the radiator cap with no success, so gave in and ordered a new cap.

There's a set-screw in the radiator cap you should loosen before you
remove the cap and tighten after you replace the cap...

-Mike

s

Loosened the set screw when I took off the cap to examine it and put the cap back and tightened.

[Asian Redneck]

I installed water temperature gauges on 4 of my 5 Valkyries.

Both Tourers and both Interstates show/showed 185 degrees F when ridden on flat ground @ highway speeds and an ambient temperature of 80 degrees F. Increase the ambient to 90+ F, run them up very long inclines (especially with a passenger) and I'd see water temps get close to 200 degrees F.

The fans kicked on at 225-230 degrees F indicated.

Air Wings and the rubber engine deflector being in place helped with driver comfort, particularly above 35MPH or so. I'd say these bikes run "warm" but you shouldn't see temperatures so great that the fan is constantly on, or the oil begins to break down.

Can you post a picture of the coolant temperature gauge and where you installed yours. Thank you.

[Asian Redneck]

Thank you all for the information and advice. I sure have my work cut out for me when I get back including building a lift adapter. I have a MC jack so won’t need that!

[Gryphon Rider]

Thank you all for the information and advice. I sure have my work cut out for me when I get back including building a lift adapter. I have a MC jack so won’t need that!

Would you mind telling us what you are seeing that makes you think your engine is running too hot?

[Jjona5]

That is a sweet gadget and I want it.

There is a Tel Tru temperature gauge you can buy to replace the dipstick.

There is no wiring or mechanics involved.

As long as your bike is under (or at) 220 (and your fan and thermostat are working), you are OK.  Measuring heat at the radiator and not the oil may be a bit better, but not enough to worry about.

I have them on both my bikes.  You can look down and read them.

They come with 2 size gauge heads, 1 3/4" and 2".  I prefer the two inch, but with the Kuryakyn transmission covers, the edge of the gauge just touched the cover and they are now marked, slightly.

The gauges are marked with an oil line, but I don't use them to check oil, I use the OE plastic one for that (in my toolbox).  They may be accurate enough, I don't know.

You must snug them (only) with a wrench on an Oring, not by grasping the dial head, or you will alter the temp calculation (which can be reset using boiling water; at 212* sea level).  They snug up so they can't be stolen (easily).

This way you don't have to guess.

https://www.teltru.com/s-95-honda-motorcycles.aspx

Mine do not sit as high as in this picture.  Maybe people complained about it hitting the tranny cover, and they made them taller, I dunno.

I placed a sliver of black electrical tape at the 220 degree mark on the dial face, as a benchmark, because I don't wear bifocals to ride.  Looking down while riding or sitting, as long as the temp sweep is below the benchmark, I am good.  I have never hit the benchmark while looking (and I check often in stop and go on hot days).  I will never sit in 90+ degrees at idle for more than a couple minutes.  I'll shut down and restart when I can move.



I don't know for sure, but am thinking good synthetic may run a few degrees cooler than dino. (?)

[Asian Redneck]

Thank you all for the information and advice. I sure have my work cut out for me when I get back including building a lift adapter. I have a MC jack so won’t need that!

Would you mind telling us what you are seeing that makes you think your engine is running too hot?

My legs get really hot when I stop at a light and in stop and go traffic!

[Asian Redneck]

I installed water temperature gauges on 4 of my 5 Valkyries.

Both Tourers and both Interstates show/showed 185 degrees F when ridden on flat ground @ highway speeds and an ambient temperature of 80 degrees F. Increase the ambient to 90+ F, run them up very long inclines (especially with a passenger) and I'd see water temps get close to 200 degrees F.

The fans kicked on at 225-230 degrees F indicated.

Air Wings and the rubber engine deflector being in place helped with driver comfort, particularly above 35MPH or so. I'd say these bikes run "warm" but you shouldn't see temperatures so great that the fan is constantly on, or the oil begins to break down.

Hi John, Can you post a picture of your temperature gauge. Thanks

[Bighead]

Thank you all for the information and advice. I sure have my work cut out for me when I get back including building a lift adapter. I have a MC jack so won’t need that!

Would you mind telling us what you are seeing that makes you think your engine is running too hot?

My legs get really hot when I stop at a light and in stop and go traffic!

100% normal you have 1500 cc’s of internal combustion engine between your legs and 6 header pipes just a few inches from your legs. Seems reasonable that you would feel the heat. Just sayin.

[Bone]

My legs get really hot when I stop at a light and in stop and go traffic!

Try and place your feet farther apart tall leather boots work for me.

[Jess from VA]

Yeah, I thought maybe I'd get a break from heat wearing full mesh pants.  I was wrong, I might as well have been wearing short pants.  Hot as hell, and black to boot.

Heavy baggy jeans work best.  I always wear 8 inch (or higher boots).  But the heavy jeans serve to protect from heat, and the baggy is great when moving as the bottoms open up (and stay open) on the highway pegs, and inflate your pants legs with moving air.  Better in a git-off too. 

[98valk]

I wear carhartt dble knees. never feel the heat, also stay cool .

https://www.canyonchasers.net/2013/06/carhartt-double-front-dungarees/

[Gryphon Rider]

Thank you all for the information and advice. I sure have my work cut out for me when I get back including building a lift adapter. I have a MC jack so won’t need that!

Would you mind telling us what you are seeing that makes you think your engine is running too hot?

My legs get really hot when I stop at a light and in stop and go traffic!

100% normal you have 1500 cc’s of internal combustion engine between your legs and 6 header pipes just a few inches from your legs. Seems reasonable that you would feel the heat. Just sayin.

I agree.  Although the engine can "feel" too hot, unless you have a temperature gauge, the only objective indication of an overheating condition is the temperature light coming on.

[h13man]

When I 1st. got my Valk I was too concerned that the thermo sensor was bad and ordered a new one as the fan never came on. Well behold it did work when I synched the carbs but took forever it seemed. The only time mine feels hot is when I have the lowers on below the windshield and that's at speed. Very cool running bike but my 1100 Spirit was too but slow moving, hot days, the Valk is still cooler running than the 1100.

[jbrooks]

I wear carhartt dble knees. never feel the heat, also stay cool .

https://www.canyonchasers.net/2013/06/carhartt-double-front-dungarees/

Thanks for the link on the carhartts. I have ordered a pair to try out

[98valk]

I wear carhartt dble knees. never feel the heat, also stay cool .

https://www.canyonchasers.net/2013/06/carhartt-double-front-dungarees/

Thanks for the link on the carhartts. I have ordered a pair to try out

 

[Asian Redneck]

I wear carhartt dble knees. never feel the heat, also stay cool .

https://www.canyonchasers.net/2013/06/carhartt-double-front-dungarees/

Thanks for the recommendation! Will certainly try them out.

[98valk]

usually the best prices here. they are 2nds, I never had a problem.

https://www.sierra.com/s~carhartt-men-pants/