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jbrooks
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« on: June 27, 2019, 11:12:09 AM » |
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I set out to service the rear end on my 2000 interstate and I found the splines dry and red/orange in color. St the previous service everything was well greased and looked good. At that time the only thing I changed was to go to the double row 5204 bearing. Since the last service I have put on 3000 mi and today took a look to see if things looked good. No good. The grease had all come out and was all over the 5 star flange. I have measured the spacer that was cut down .260". I am at a loss as to what is happening. Any ideas?
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Savage
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« Reply #1 on: June 27, 2019, 11:47:30 AM » |
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Is it possible that your U-Joint boot is dislodged or cracked/split?
I once had a terrible experience shortly after driving through a large amount of standing water in a storm... a large amount of water entered through a crack in the u-joint, later flushing all the grease out of the rear srivetrain. I didn’t discover it until the rear wheel bearings went out at speed. When I got it apart everything was rusted over and bone dry.
The health of that rubber boot is pretty important...
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Columbia, South Carolina
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sandy
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« Reply #2 on: June 27, 2019, 12:33:13 PM » |
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It was well greased with what? I'd replace the 3 O rings and use Bel Ray waterproof grease from now on. Grease the thrust washer too.
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jbrooks
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« Reply #3 on: June 27, 2019, 02:22:51 PM » |
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Serviced with waterproof grease and all new redeye o-rings
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« Reply #4 on: June 27, 2019, 04:26:29 PM » |
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Serviced with waterproof grease and all new redeye o-rings
At my last tire change I found mine the same. Used the same grease I had for 10's of thousands of miles. Used new O Rings. Thrust washer used. it was a puzzler to me as well. |
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« Reply #5 on: June 27, 2019, 04:27:15 PM » |
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Is it possible that your U-Joint boot is dislodged or cracked/split?
I once had a terrible experience shortly after driving through a large amount of standing water in a storm... a large amount of water entered through a crack in the u-joint, later flushing all the grease out of the rear srivetrain. I didn’t discover it until the rear wheel bearings went out at speed. When I got it apart everything was rusted over and bone dry.
The health of that rubber boot is pretty important...
How would a crappy boot affect the final drive in the rear wheel? |
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Savage
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« Reply #6 on: June 27, 2019, 06:12:39 PM » |
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Is it possible that your U-Joint boot is dislodged or cracked/split?
I once had a terrible experience shortly after driving through a large amount of standing water in a storm... a large amount of water entered through a crack in the u-joint, later flushing all the grease out of the rear srivetrain. I didn’t discover it until the rear wheel bearings went out at speed. When I got it apart everything was rusted over and bone dry.
The health of that rubber boot is pretty important...
How would a crappy boot affect the final drive in the rear wheel? If you read my post, you’ll see that I stated the damaged boot allowed water into the entire rear drivetrain. It flowed through the swingarm, through the final drive and into the rear wheel. |
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Columbia, South Carolina
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jbrooks
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« Reply #7 on: June 28, 2019, 08:57:10 AM » |
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Boot is good no cracks or holes. No water in the rear end oil.
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Savage
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« Reply #8 on: June 28, 2019, 09:15:07 AM » |
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Columbia, South Carolina
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mello dude
Member
Posts: 951
Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole
Dayton Ohio
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« Reply #9 on: June 28, 2019, 01:34:22 PM » |
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Thanks for the link!  Ordered! 10 bucks total.... may as well since the wheel is off... |
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« Last Edit: June 28, 2019, 01:53:32 PM by mello dude »
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* There's someone in my head, but it's not me.......
* Mr. Murphy was an optimist....
* There's a very fine line between Insanity and Genius.....
* My get up and go, must have got up and went.....
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Valkpilot
Member
Posts: 2151
What does the data say?
Corinth, Texas
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« Reply #10 on: June 28, 2019, 02:31:42 PM » |
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Boot is good no cracks or holes. No water in the rear end oil.
When you disassembled this time, were all three of the O-rings in good condition, and were they in their grooves? It's easy to cut one of the o-rings on assembly if you tip the wheel in to mate the driven splines with the drive splines. It needs to go staight in. Partial insertion of the axle without the caliper mount or spacer in on the left side assists in doing this correctly. Last time, did you torque the axle first, with the four bolts that hold the rear drive to the drive shaft loose, then tighte them? |
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VRCC #19757 IBA #44686 1998 Black Standard 2007 Goldwing   |
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mello dude
Member
Posts: 951
Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole
Dayton Ohio
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« Reply #11 on: June 28, 2019, 03:00:42 PM » |
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Boot is good no cracks or holes. No water in the rear end oil.
When you disassembled this time, were all three of the O-rings in good condition, and were they in their grooves? It's easy to cut one of the o-rings on assembly if you tip the wheel in to mate the driven splines with the drive splines. It needs to go staight in. Partial insertion of the axle without the caliper mount or spacer in on the left side assists in doing this correctly. Last time, did you torque the axle first, with the four bolts that hold the rear drive to the drive shaft loose, then tighte them? Just kinda bumping this since I am having a rather nasty time getting the wheel on..... For the moment, taking a pause waiting for some parts, but then will be back at it... I dont mean to hijack the thread, but I'm sure the OP will be in the same boat..... - I had it all together once, but on the advise of the crew here, I pulled it apart for inspection of the final drive and drive shaft.. got it apart and regreased. - New studs in the drive... easy peasy... - Quite a wresling match for getting the shaft back in the U joint, but got it done... - New OEM orings, regreased, Moly ed... - Drive bolts just setting loose, for slack, setting about halfway on the new studs..... - Working the assembly for the wheel, sans spacer and brake bracket. - Getting axle in all the way with wheel to left side before moving on the splines... - Moving wheel over the splines seem to go most of the way, but that last quarter inch.. - Have been wondering if I'm a catching on a new o-ring, (how to check?) - since on my first try it seemed fine and fit all the way home.... - I pulled the wheel drive with the 5 studs out to check how things are going together. Dont know what to make of it yet... drives me crazy, usually I'm pretty good, been wrenching for decades.. - Going to make next attempt after the Partzilla box shows up ... Or maybe with the new Red Eye orings. Chime in if you have ideas.. btw - using Loctite Moly paste... |
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* There's someone in my head, but it's not me.......
* Mr. Murphy was an optimist....
* There's a very fine line between Insanity and Genius.....
* My get up and go, must have got up and went.....
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jbrooks
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« Reply #12 on: June 29, 2019, 07:18:21 AM » |
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O-rings were all intact and I did put new Redeye orings in. My biggest concern was that this happened after doing the double row bearing change. I did measure the cutdown spacer and bearing and it all seams to add up. I put it all back together yesterday and the wheel slipped right in. I am headed off for a 3000 mi ride next week so hopefully noyhing happens
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sixlow
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« Reply #13 on: June 29, 2019, 04:09:40 PM » |
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I like to pre fit the flange into the final drive a few times especially with new o rings. Maybe regrease it once after the first time you pull it apart, this should make sure all the o rings are well seated and lubed. Then put the flange in the wheel and assemble. I have put a roll of sturdy shop towels between the final drive and my chest and then pull the wheel toward me. A new guy asked me once what was the one thing I didn't like about a Valkyrie and I said the rear wheel removal and assembly, I stand by those words today. It does get easier with repetition, hang in there.  |
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Valkpilot
Member
Posts: 2151
What does the data say?
Corinth, Texas
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« Reply #14 on: June 29, 2019, 05:20:01 PM » |
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... but that last quarter inch..
What do you mean? |
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VRCC #19757 IBA #44686 1998 Black Standard 2007 Goldwing |
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mello dude
Member
Posts: 951
Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole
Dayton Ohio
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« Reply #15 on: June 29, 2019, 07:50:35 PM » |
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... but that last quarter inch..
What do you mean? On the wheel there is a nice reference groove around the right side that fits into the plastic dust guard. Pictures -- the groove as trying to assemble-- ignore the wax...  The wheel sitting off and the dust gaurd setting all the way.  Anyhoo - it just feels like the wheel is not seating 100% like it supposed too, like something is obstructing it, no matter how hard I pull on the thing. -- It shouldnt be this hard, I did it once just fine already... Going to give another try when parts come in...  I like to pre fit the flange into the final drive a few times especially with new o rings. Maybe regrease it once after the first time you pull it apart, this should make sure all the o rings are well seated and lubed. Then put the flange in the wheel and assemble. I have put a roll of sturdy shop towels between the final drive and my chest and then pull the wheel toward me. A new guy asked me once what was the one thing I didn't like about a Valkyrie and I said the rear wheel removal and assembly, I stand by those words today. It does get easier with repetition, hang in there. That's kinda where I am at right now, mostly just screwing with the flange and looking for anomolies.... on off on off on off... bleah. Its the Valkyrie final drive torture... lol  |
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« Last Edit: June 29, 2019, 07:56:16 PM by mello dude »
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* There's someone in my head, but it's not me.......
* Mr. Murphy was an optimist....
* There's a very fine line between Insanity and Genius.....
* My get up and go, must have got up and went.....
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Savage
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« Reply #16 on: June 29, 2019, 09:06:44 PM » |
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... but that last quarter inch..
What do you mean? On the wheel there is a nice reference groove around the right side that fits into the plastic dust guard. Pictures -- the groove as trying to assemble-- ignore the wax... The wheel sitting off and the dust gaurd setting all the way. Anyhoo - it just feels like the wheel is not seating 100% like it supposed too, like something is obstructing it, no matter how hard I pull on the thing. -- It shouldnt be this hard, I did it once just fine already... Going to give another try when parts come in... I like to pre fit the flange into the final drive a few times especially with new o rings. Maybe regrease it once after the first time you pull it apart, this should make sure all the o rings are well seated and lubed. Then put the flange in the wheel and assemble. I have put a roll of sturdy shop towels between the final drive and my chest and then pull the wheel toward me. A new guy asked me once what was the one thing I didn't like about a Valkyrie and I said the rear wheel removal and assembly, I stand by those words today. It does get easier with repetition, hang in there. That's kinda where I am at right now, mostly just screwing with the flange and looking for anomolies.... on off on off on off... bleah. Its the Valkyrie final drive torture... lol Check and make sure there isn’t too MUCH grease inside the final drive. It can create a barrier that will not allow the flange to seat all the way! |
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Columbia, South Carolina
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9Ball
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« Reply #17 on: June 30, 2019, 02:28:48 AM » |
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I like to pre fit the flange into the final drive a few times especially with new o rings. Maybe regrease it once after the first time you pull it apart, this should make sure all the o rings are well seated and lubed. Then put the flange in the wheel and assemble. I have put a roll of sturdy shop towels between the final drive and my chest and then pull the wheel toward me. A new guy asked me once what was the one thing I didn't like about a Valkyrie and I said the rear wheel removal and assembly, I stand by those words today. It does get easier with repetition, hang in there. That’s a good tip. I’m going to try this for the next rear tire change. Thanks. |
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VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000
1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S
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Valkpilot
Member
Posts: 2151
What does the data say?
Corinth, Texas
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« Reply #18 on: June 30, 2019, 09:30:57 AM » |
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On the wheel there is a nice reference groove around the right side that fits into the plastic dust guard.
Pictures -- the groove as trying to assemble--
Normal. The bottom line is that if you can assemble everything right to left, including the brake caliper mount and the left spacer, then it is fully seated. And don't fall for the spacer getting slightly cocked, preventing full assembly, and assuming it's the drive. Here's mine, assembled.  |
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« Last Edit: June 30, 2019, 09:34:28 AM by Valkpilot »
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VRCC #19757 IBA #44686 1998 Black Standard 2007 Goldwing |
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