Trouble getting Alternator loose to change

[vanavyman]

Hello,
  I'm having issues with my Alternator.  After a couple days of driving the battery will go dead.  Can jump it until battery is completely dead.   Put bike on the battery tender and it says it gets to a complete charge with green lite coming on.  Starts fine.  Bike has 85,000 miles on the bike and a 4 year old battery so figured I just change both.  Ordered the 80 Amp High Output Alternator for Honda Valkyrie off eBay. 
  Read the blogs on this site for removing the Alt and gave it a try.  Get the cover off.  Remove the 3 bolts off and the stay.  Manual now says to remove the Alternator.  It doesn't move at all.  Several guys mention it is difficult to move and twist to get it out and then back in but no one said it just doesn't move.  Tried hitting it with a rubber mallet a few times and still it doesn't budge.  Am I missing something?  Any good ideas on what might make it come out.  Often my ideas aren't usually good.  I'm trying not to pry on it or hit it too hard.

Thanks for any tips you can provide.

Dan

[The emperor has no clothes]

It's probably got a little corrosion holding it in place. You should be able to use a screw driver to pry between the mounting flange and the engine block. Do little bits at a time from different spots.

[Chrisj CMA]

It's probably got a little corrosion holding it in place. You should be able to use a screw driver to pry between the mounting flange and the engine block. Do little bits at a time from different spots.

+1 What Meathead said

[The emperor has no clothes]

Also, to add. There are a couple of the mounting holes that have locating bushings. That's not the correct terminology, but I can't think of what they are called. You won't be able to turn the alternator until you have cleared those.

[MarkT]

You and Meathead are on the right track with corrosion sticking it in place probably at the pilot (aka locating) pins.  Use 2 large screwdrivers and apply some rearward leverage in the cracks between the engine block and the alternator body, on opposing points upper and lower, both at once.  Not excessive just some rearward torque.  Use your knee for the lower lever. At the same time tap it with a lightweight (like 2 lbs) deadblow hammer to impart some shock waves through the body of the alternator into the joint where the corrosion is sticking it in place.  Betcha a beer it will promptly pop loose.  If it doesn't succeed right away increase the torque on the screwdrivers incrementally, not excessively.  Tap a little harder.  You can also make up the very best penetrating fluid there is (scientifically tested, google it) with a 50/50 mixture of acetone and ATF fluid.  Apply it to the crack and where the pilot pins are.

After you move the alternator body rearward about 3/8 inch and it clears the pins, clock it 20° or so inward and tip the back down.  That will provide enough clearance to back out the impellers and move the input side outward.  Now you have enough clearance to disconnect the wire at the back. To reinstall, have the bike on a lift so the back wheel is up; tranny in gear.  Bump the back wheel until the rubber dampers are in "X" position.  That will hold them in place well enough to insert the alt drive paddles in, in "+" position.  Other steps are reverse of removal steps.  Also apply some anti-sieze compound to the mount bolt's threads before reinserting them to prevent siezure and breaking in the future. Yes this has happened to a number of bikes including my first Valk, Deerslayer.  Dissimilar metals - steel and aluminum - are ripe candidates for galvanic corrosion over time, siezing and breaking off in the bolt hole.  This goes for your spark plugs too.  Use a torque wrench on the alt mount bolts - torque spec is 22ft/lbs.

[vanavyman]

Thanks everyone for your tips.  Don't usually do my own maintenance but did not want to take this into a Honda dealer.  They would only put on the expensive replacement.  Reading the comments on here the high amp Alternator sounds like a good replacement.

Mark,
  Thanks for the step by steps.  I'll get a chance to use the your Lift Adapter I bought in Roanoke.

Dan

[The emperor has no clothes]

Reading the comments on here the high amp Alternator sounds like a good replacement
Dan

Well.....since you kind of asked. I don't wish to throw cold water on your situation, but I feel obliged to relate my experiences with them. I got one a few years back. The o-ring sucks, mine leaked almost immediately. If you use this alternator get a stock o-ring. Also check the tightness of the flange nut. Mine came loose in the first year and the drive started clanging around in there. Along with tightening it, I would also stake the nut just to be safe. Now onto the really good news. On my way to Roanoke last summer a bearing went out in it. Luckily I was near a good alternator shop in Amarillo and they did me good and rebuilt the whole unit in less than 5 hours of receiving it. I did have 40k on the alternator by this time. But, I think the reason these are so cheap on Amazon, EBay, etc. is they are probably being built in the FarEast with cheap labor and cheap materials. In my opinion buying the stock  GW alternator for another $120 is well worth it. You do have to "clock" them, but that's pretty easy. (Don't have Serk do it though) 
  I only put this out there to inform you of my experience. I completely understand wanting to save some money. I believe mine was rebuilt with quality components, and I'm not worried about it now. But, one of the first things I did when I got back was to buy a GW unit as my backup.
  One good thing about that alternator was that with the multiple times of having to remove and reinstall it, I was pretty quick doing it in the dark of night in a Motel 6 parking lot with minimal tools. 
Best of luck to you.