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Author Topic: power problem  (Read 1509 times)
Dano
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*****
Posts: 30

Gwinn, MI


« on: July 12, 2019, 07:40:13 AM »

Hey Guys,

Been a long time since I visited the site.

Tried to start the 97 Valk (single owner - me) for the season, turned the key (had power to  everything, pressed the starter and lost all power to everthing.  No lights, no nothing.  Thought at first it was the 30W fuse, that's OK.  Checked all the other fuses under the right side cover.  Everthing looks fine.  I've got 12.8V on the battery.  Toggled the kill switch, nothing.

Any ideas.

Thanks,
Dano (Dan Ferrerntino)
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Chrisj CMA
Member
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Posts: 14765


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #1 on: July 12, 2019, 07:43:30 AM »

Try repairing the starter switch. The contacts get dirty usually after they get stuck in their slot so the connection is sketchy and then what you’re experiencing can happen.

Procedure is in Shop Talk
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ridingron
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Posts: 1178


Orlando


« Reply #2 on: July 12, 2019, 11:41:42 AM »


Quote
   Thought at first it was the 30W fuse, that's OK.   



Is this what you checked?



http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,74229.0.html
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Bighead
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Posts: 8654


Madison Alabama


« Reply #3 on: July 12, 2019, 11:59:09 AM »

Also check your battery cables. (Both ends) and make sure they are tight and have no corrosion. Seen it happen to a fellow valker after a lunch stop. Loose cable tightened it up and she roared to life.
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
Jruby38
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Posts: 237

Oxford Mass.


« Reply #4 on: July 12, 2019, 12:53:32 PM »

Bad Ground to the frame.
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gordonv
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Posts: 5760


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #5 on: July 12, 2019, 04:08:47 PM »

1st thing to do before ANYTHING else, is try to jump start from a known working (non running vehicle) battery.

If it starts fine, then your battery is dead, even with those 12.8V, no amps.

If it doesn't, then like Chris said, starter switch cleaning is next.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS

Toledo Mark
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Posts: 609


Formerly Zeus661

Rossford, Ohio


« Reply #6 on: July 12, 2019, 04:48:22 PM »

It’s is probably the starter relay. It’s about a 1 inch square plastic cube behind the left side cover. Or could be right side. My guess is it will looked fried.  somewhere on this site is a fix for it with heavier wire and adding an inline fuse I believe. I no longer have my Valkyrie but I had a similar issue and that was the problem. I hit the start, seconds later everything was dead. I’ll see if I can find a picture.
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**************************************************************
Dropbox is a neat app I found that I use to store files and pictures of my Valk.
**
Toledo Mark
Member
*****
Posts: 609


Formerly Zeus661

Rossford, Ohio


« Reply #7 on: July 12, 2019, 04:52:10 PM »

AHL Starter Solenoid Relay for Honda GL1500C Valkyrie 1997-2003 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019STFNOQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_NWskDbK6CNCVN
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**************************************************************
Dropbox is a neat app I found that I use to store files and pictures of my Valk.
**
Toledo Mark
Member
*****
Posts: 609


Formerly Zeus661

Rossford, Ohio


« Reply #8 on: July 12, 2019, 04:53:05 PM »

The connector that plugs into that relay is probably fried.

Let me know.
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**************************************************************
Dropbox is a neat app I found that I use to store files and pictures of my Valk.
**
gordonv
Member
*****
Posts: 5760


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #9 on: July 12, 2019, 08:21:53 PM »

An oldie, but goodie, on the starter relay in case that (possible) is the problem.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,14089.0.html

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1999 Black with custom paint IS

Dano
Member
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Posts: 30

Gwinn, MI


« Reply #10 on: July 13, 2019, 06:36:13 AM »

Thanks for the input guys.  Will check and recheck.
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Dano
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Posts: 30

Gwinn, MI


« Reply #11 on: July 15, 2019, 11:07:28 AM »

Placed some battery cables from another known good battery and got lights.  Ordered a new battery.

Hope this takes care of things.

Thanks again
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Dano
Member
*****
Posts: 30

Gwinn, MI


« Reply #12 on: August 06, 2019, 07:44:50 AM »

Got the new battery installed and trickle charged to 13.4v charge and bike started fine.  Went for a ride about 20 miles from home and the bike sputtered like it needed the reserve on the gas tank (plenty of gas) and then lost power.  Tried to restart, nothing but red and green lights (oil and ?).  Moved the bike to a safe location and tied to restart.  Got it to turn over but wouldn't start, battery lost voltage to solenoid clicking.  Got picked up, returned home with bike with trailer, bike started.  Started again when I got home and checked the voltage on the battery 11.3.


What do you think? - alternator?, short somewhere?

Have an bike shop appointment on the 13th but trying a few checks before.

Thanks
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Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14765


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #13 on: August 06, 2019, 08:02:43 AM »

Did the 55a fuseable link burn out? That will kill your alternator.
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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #14 on: August 06, 2019, 02:44:42 PM »

Got the new battery installed and trickle charged to 13.4v charge and bike started fine.  Went for a ride about 20 miles from home and the bike sputtered like it needed the reserve on the gas tank (plenty of gas) and then lost power.  Tried to restart, nothing but red and green lights (oil and ?).  Moved the bike to a safe location and tied to restart.  Got it to turn over but wouldn't start, battery lost voltage to solenoid clicking.  Got picked up, returned home with bike with trailer, bike started.  Started again when I got home and checked the voltage on the battery 11.3.


What do you think? - alternator?, short somewhere?

Have an bike shop appointment on the 13th but trying a few checks before.

Thanks
Just from what you report here in this post, I would say your alternator is toast.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
gordonv
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Posts: 5760


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #15 on: August 06, 2019, 07:39:47 PM »

Dano, what you haven't said is speaking volumes to me.

HAVE YOU TESTED THE BATTERY VOLTAGE WITH THE BIKE RUNNING?

No? Then please do it. Jump the bike if you need to, and then place a volt meter on the battery. Rev over 1500 rpm. You should have voltage over 13V. If not, then test the voltage output AT the ALTERNATOR.

Still don't have over 13V reving, then it's your alternator all along. If it does, then it's the connection between the alt and the battery (and the rest of the bike), and your old battery most likely is still good.
« Last Edit: August 06, 2019, 07:55:00 PM by gordonv » Logged

1999 Black with custom paint IS

Dano
Member
*****
Posts: 30

Gwinn, MI


« Reply #16 on: August 11, 2019, 07:14:07 AM »

Hi all,
Just ran a test with the bike started.  13.4V before the start up (on battery charger before).  Started and voltage dropped to 12.1V at 1500rpm's.

Looks like the alternator.

Question:  Can I find an alternator for the Valk?  Thought I read a thread a while ago that someone used a Gold Wing alternator and retrofitted it to the Valk.

Thanks
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Ricky-D
Member
*****
Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #17 on: August 11, 2019, 07:34:36 AM »

Hi all,
Just ran a test with the bike started.  13.4V before the start up (on battery charger before).  Started and voltage dropped to 12.1V at 1500rpm's.

Looks like the alternator.

Question:  Can I find an alternator for the Valk?  Thought I read a thread a while ago that someone used a Gold Wing alternator and retrofitted it to the Valk.

Thanks


Here ya go. This guy is acknowledged the best there is for Valkyrie alternator repair.  http://myplace.frontier.com/~hemi-roid/

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
gordonv
Member
*****
Posts: 5760


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #18 on: August 11, 2019, 02:17:02 PM »

Hi all,
Just ran a test with the bike started.  13.4V before the start up (on battery charger before).  Started and voltage dropped to 12.1V at 1500rpm's.

Looks like the alternator.

Question:  Can I find an alternator for the Valk?  Thought I read a thread a while ago that someone used a Gold Wing alternator and retrofitted it to the Valk.


No, you have not verified that it is the alternator. What you have verified is that there is no power getting from the alt to the battery.

Now you need to test the voltage output from the alternator, while the bike is running and the rpm over 1200.

There is a fuse between the alt and battery, and that might be gone.

It is more likely that the alternator is not putting out voltage, and most likely the brushes. It doesn't cost much if they are. Are you capable to fix yourself, or to just buy a replacement and swap it out?


Yes, the GL1500 alternators are all the same. The GW and Valkyrie have the mounting points in a different location. All you do is remove the 3 large outside screws, rotate a housing 120' to the next one, and replace. Lots of posts on it, even a couple I've done.

My new GW 55 Amp alternator for my Valkyrie, I just picked up yesterday, will most likely be mounted in a week, and I'll post on it too.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,107156.msg1075442.html#msg1075442
« Last Edit: August 11, 2019, 02:59:22 PM by gordonv » Logged

1999 Black with custom paint IS

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