Rivco center-stand and removing rear wheel

[berto]

Nail in the tire....getting ready to pull the rear wheel off. I have the rivco center-stand and cobra pipes (if it matter).  Two questions :
1) just with the center-stand. Must i  remove pipes and rear portion of fender or is there an easier way ?
2) was looking at some of those supports (sometime permanent) that go under the chassis to make lifting the bike safe and was wondering; will my center-stand be in the way ??
   Love this board.. best thing for my butt and for my wallet.     Thank -you all     

[gordonv]

1) you MUST NEVER remove the pipes with any process. If you are, you need to research more and find out how not to.

I'm not sure if Dag's video will show you or not. You can lower the swing arm so the axle goes over top. I've not done it, so would need to research myself to answer the question. Removing the shocks, using straps to support the weight, but being adjustable.

Found it,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcKTQ_MDIU4

On the center stand, you'll be removing the rear half of the fender, rolling the wheel out the back. If you've a flat tire, getting it on the stand will be a bitch. Make a wood ramp to get more height, then the center stand.

2) Having the center stand myself, I think you're talking the lift support bracket. I believe it's not in the way of the center stand. With the lift, you'll be removing the tire out the bottom.

This one too in shoptalk from ChrisJ
http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/rear_end_service.pptx

[berto]

Hey thanks for the tips.  The problem i need resolving is: On the center-stand there is only 2” max of clearance from the ground to the rear tire, not enough room to stick a jack under the tire to lift the swing arm (after removing the shocks)  Any ideas to deal with this. ???    Much appreciated. Thank-you

[SCain]

You don't need a jack under the tire, use a MC tie down strap or ratchet strap over the bike hooked to each side of the swingarm and pull it up.

[Bagger John - #3785]

1) you MUST NEVER remove the pipes with any process. If you are, you need to research more and find out how not to...

Every time I service the rear end on my Valkyries - prior to placing the bike on a lift - I remove both sets of pipes and the various footpeg hardware.

Why?

They get inspected, cleaned and detailed.

[gordonv]

1) you MUST NEVER remove the pipes with any process. If you are, you need to research more and find out how not to...

Every time I service the rear end on my Valkyries - prior to placing the bike on a lift - I remove both sets of pipes and the various footpeg hardware.

Why?

They get inspected, cleaned and detailed.

You are most welcome to do what ever you wish on your own bike.

If you wish to, as you do, use it as a means of cleaning them, then that is a great method, rather than laying on the ground and working up, and this is giving you an excuse to do the job right.

On mine, if you loosen the rear hangers, you get enough flex to clear the axle.

Remove the exhaust, so you replace the gaskets every time? Then the chance of over tightening those exhaust studs and breaking them, another cost. (I've removed the studs and used antiseize and my drill, and ran them in-out to clean/free them out).

Then there is the described method of removing the shocks and lowering the swingarm. Outside of the special items for the job, no additional costs.

But the questions was to remove the exhaust to remove the rear tire, so that would mean remove the rear axle. So it still stands. It's not required.

[berto]

MC tie-down straps. Excellent suggestion in fact it tickled my brain as i have seen it used before
    Thanks again

[gordonv]

Also, if you remove the rear drive and drive shaft, when putting the drive shaft back in, the swing arm needs to be horizontal when you spin the rear splines, or the universal can bind.

[John Schmidt]

Just so you'll know, the advice given is pretty solid. I've had the cenerstand for years and have never used a lift to pull the rear wheel. And, I pull the shocks also then use a floor jack under the swingarm, not the tire. I've never removed the exhaust.  A 2" clearance from the floor is all you need. When it comes time to reinstall, I use a block of 2x4 as a fulcrum and a 30" or so piece of 1x3. Slip it under the tire and lift the wheel up just high enough to slip the axle in place all the way thru to the left side without installing the spacer and brake mount. That supports the wheel and lets you engage the splines with less struggle. Once that's in place, then pull the axle just enough to insert the spacer and brake mount.

[Bagger John - #3785]

Remove the exhaust, so you replace the gaskets every time?

No - and I don't have leaks, either. Regardless...every third time the pipes come off, the gaskets are replaced.

Then the chance of over tightening those exhaust studs and breaking them, another cost. (I've removed the studs and used antiseize and my drill, and ran them in-out to clean/free them out).

Get a 1/4" torque screwdriver which can be set to the correct value for the header nuts (84 in/lbs) and you'll never have to worry about breaking one, unless the stud is rusted to the point of failure to begin with.

With new gaskets, I torque the nuts to the specified value in a pattern similar to what you'd do when tightening cylinder head bolts - then after a test ride, re-check each nut and tighten to spec if needed. They're also checked as part of routine maintenance.