Motor won't start by starter button

[Road Monkey]

Went for a great ride Sunday, about 100 miles.  Bike was running great.  Stopped for gas and no problem.  Stopped again and bike won't start.  Push starter button and nothing.  Headlight and light bar is off.  Signal lights, horn, and indicatior lights work.  Check fuses and fine.  Change headlight and ignition fuses to be safe.  Check battery terminals and tight and clean.  Bike will push start but still no headlight or light bar.  Any suggestions?  Thanks. 

[roboto65]

Yep you need to clean the starter switch it is dirty that should fix you up..

[R J]

I 2nd what roboto65 said...............

Very typical call on lights off and no start.

Start button maintenance, Std/Tourer very easy.

I/s, just a tad bit more involved, but same cure needed.

[X Ring]

Here's the instructions.  http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/starter.html

Marty

[John Schmidt]

Here's the instructions.  http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/starter.html

Marty

To make certain it doesn't happen again, on Marty's link just scroll down to the "safeguard" part and install the relay after doing the maintenance part as suggested. It removes the high amperage from the switch(which is why it fails in the first place) and places it on the relay. That leaves the switch with much less than one amp running through it instead of 4-5 amps(or more) depending on the headlight wattage you're using. Use a 12vdc relay with a 30-40 amp rating, you should never have to mess with your start switch again.

[Joe Hummer]

I would also add that you want to use a relay that is sealed.  I picked one up from O'Reilly's Auto Parts the other day...I believe it was in the trailer light section.  If you can't find it, ask for a sealed 12VDC relay.  Remember, if you don't see the shiny coating on the bottom of the relay, it isn't sealed. 

Joe

[John Schmidt]

I would also add that you want to use a relay that is sealed.  I picked one up from O'Reilly's Auto Parts the other day...I believe it was in the trailer light section.  If you can't find it, ask for a sealed 12VDC relay.  Remember, if you don't see the shiny coating on the bottom of the relay, it isn't sealed. 

Joe

+1, Sealed...most definitely. Gives you more options for mounting. I mounted mine in the headlight bucket and fastened it down with one of the bolts in the bottom holding the bucket down. I'm not familiar with the I/S method for the headlights however.

[Tx Bohemian]

Bike will push start...

Ok, how did you do this and was it hard?  Did you just roll it down a driveway and pop the clutch, pull it with a car, etc...?

The next day after I bought my '99 Standard I worked on the lights for a couple of hours (key off and on during this time) and then  the bike wouldn't start. Spun over like crazy but wouldn't fire up, no spark.  One member here suggested to charge the battery and, although I doubted him the way this thing spun over, I charged it  and lo and behold it started right up. I guess it had enough charge to spin the starter but none left over to power the coils.

This got me to thinking if this happens again would I be able to push start this thing hoping there is enough juice to fire the coils if it wasn't being used to spin the starter.

[R J]

Push start ya need a helper, unless ya got a nice steep hill to go down.

Set on seat, tranny in 2nd or 3rd, clutch puller.

Have the helper push from behind and about a very fast walk or slow run pop the clutch, engine should ignite.   Pull clutch drop to 1st gear.  Let bike idle for a little bit and take off for where ever.

YES, it takes a lot of juice to fire those coils and some times, just as you let the button off they will fire.  That is an indicator of a low battery.

[Thunderbolt]

just one more thing that you probably wouldn't over look, but ya gotta turn the key on first.   
Kinda reminds me of the first time our car wouldn't start when I was about 14 or so.  Dad tied a rope to it from the rear bumper of his truck.  He said "put the car in second gear and turn the key on and I'll pull you down the road to crank it".  He must have pulled me for 1/4 mile before he stopped.  He said it should have cranked by then.  He asked what happened when you let the clutch out?  I told him that he didn't mention that part and I was trying very hard to do exactly as he said.    

[¿spoom]

yeppers on most everything above. I never bothered with a relay to get the headlamp current out of the PB circuit, though, and I've got 150K on my bike. Had to do the switch cleaning twice in the first 30-50K miles but the second time I filled the contact area with dielectric grease before reassembly and it's fine ever since. Compared to AC, DC current produces a long arc when contacts are disconnected under load, and this really pits the contacts. The grease helps reduce the air gap that the arc would be jumping. I run a 80/100w headlamp and it's been fine without an inter relay, not that the relay wouldn't be a good way to go. I do run a pair of 55w spots, but they're on their own switch and fuses.

[Rocketman]

Bike will push start...

Ok, how did you do this and was it hard?  Did you just roll it down a driveway and pop the clutch, pull it with a car, etc...?
This got me to thinking if this happens again would I be able to push start this thing hoping there is enough juice to fire the coils if it wasn't being used to spin the starter.

How hard this is depends heavily on how dead your battery is, and how much oomph you've got.  If it's turning the motor strong but not firing, it's probably strong enough to pushstart yourself.  I've been known to push it while straddling the bike already.  I've also been known to push it myself from the side, then hop on a rolling bike, then pop her into gear.  A friend or a hill certainly help, but may not be required, depending on electrical and mechanical oomph.
I would not recommend the tow option.  A friend did that once successfully, but it sounds like a really bad idea to me.  Towing two wheels is tough, then add in the unpredictable lurch when it starts (or worse, doesn't start), and things could get ugly.
Oh, and in addition to the key on thing, have the choke on if it's even borderline required.  Higher gears will start it easier (more force to the engine due to the gearing ratios).  Anything to make it easier to start up.  Be ready for the lurch when you pop the clutch.  Be going straight when you do it.  I usually get 'er going in nuetral (easier to push), pull the clutch in when you get up to speed (or have it in already), then pop it up into 2nd. Dump the clutch and you're on.  If it doesn't start, it will be a sudden stopping force.  If it does start, it will be a sudden stopping force followed immediately by a thrust forward.  Gotta be ready for either.

Mark

[¿spoom]

I forgot to mention earlier, if the battery is too low to crank the bike, try pulling the headlamp fuse before doing the push start attempt, and make sure spotlamps & other stuff is off.

[wdvalk]

starter switch,same thing happened to me

[Road Monkey]

Thanks for all your replies.  It was the starter switch.  When I bought the bike it had a nice set of spot lights with light bar.  Unfortunately the previous owner had wired them through the switch.  The plastic in the switch had melted.  Thanks to J. P. Sonnier in Lake Charles, LA, the light bar now has its own wiring, relay, and switch.  It's great to have all your guys for advice.  God bless you all.  Twolane

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

Old JP is a great person to know and have as a friend.