o-ring failure

[Tfrank59]

so when I pulled my rear wheel to change the tire I learned that, apparently upon assy, I'd sheered the oring (the ID thick one) so the lube on my splines was compromised from the get-go.  It had that ugly rust looking stuff in there, lots of wear on the splines too.  That's the first time that's happened to me changing a rear tire.  I've got a spare pumpkin and will switch to that now.  Any hints how to prevent that next time?  I had plenty of grease on there--what else can a guy do?

[98valk]

so when I pulled my rear wheel to change the tire I learned that, apparently upon assy, I'd sheered the oring (the ID thick one) so the lube on my splines was compromised from the get-go.  It had that ugly rust looking stuff in there, lots of wear on the splines too.  That's the first time that's happened to me changing a rear tire.  I've got a spare pumpkin and will switch to that now.  Any hints how to prevent that next time?  I had plenty of grease on there--what else can a guy do?

redeye

https://redeye.ecrater.com/p/18218041/final-drive-o-rings-for-valkyrie-polyurethane

see more info

https://sites.google.com/site/valkparts/

[Tfrank59]

I used those before--was able to reuse them once in fact--but I recall having to fight hard to get the wheel on cuz they're so tough.  Maybe it's time to go back and fight again

[Paladin528]

its usually the thin one that shears off not the fat one.
The redeye ones are tougher for sure but they are the least likely to fail.
Assembly is a little tougher but worth it.
The key is to ensure the flange and the pumpkin and the wheel are all perfectly aligned when putting them together.

[Tfrank59]

its usually the thin one that shears off not the fat one.
The redeye ones are tougher for sure but they are the least likely to fail.
Assembly is a little tougher but worth it.
The key is to ensure the flange and the pumpkin and the wheel are all perfectly aligned when putting them together.

 Yeah on mine it wasn't the thin one that sheared it was actually the small diameter fat one that runs on the ID of the driven flange. But she's all together now and I used the regular black O-rings because I have several sets of those. This time I worked on the lead-in chamfer a little bit, smoothed it up a little bit and did a couple of trial assemblies (on the bench) and everything slid together fine so hopefully it's good this time. I'll probably get the redeye ones for my next tire change.

[mello dude]

Thanks for posting this. I 'm glad to hear that I'm not the only one struggling with orings on assembly. It's been a crazy PIA!  

[Earl43P]

Did you check or replace the drive shaft seal?
It keeps water of the pinion cup joint, until it doesn’t.

[Tfrank59]

Thanks for posting this. I 'm glad to hear that I'm not the only one struggling with orings on assembly. It's been a crazy PIA!  

 well this is the first time I've had a problem, but the problem with the problem is you don't know you've got a problem until the next time you tear things down and then you find out oh crap I ruined it when I assembled it. I checked my maintenance records and back a few years and see where I was using the red eye polyurethane o rings and while they were a pain in the butt to put together they never failed. I'll go ahead and order me up another set but I think I'm good to go for this maintenance cycle and I do have essentially a new pumpkin and driveshaft installed now

[98valk]

Thanks for posting this. I 'm glad to hear that I'm not the only one struggling with orings on assembly. It's been a crazy PIA!  

 well this is the first time I've had a problem, but the problem with the problem is you don't know you've got a problem until the next time you tear things down and then you find out oh crap I ruined it when I assembled it. I checked my maintenance records and back a few years and see where I was using the red eye polyurethane o rings and while they were a pain in the butt to put together they never failed. I'll go ahead and order me up another set but I think I'm good to go for this maintenance cycle and I do have essentially a new pumpkin and driveshaft installed now

now your forcing me to pull mine apart and check it. I should anyway I'm at 12k miles since they were installed with a new CT.

By the way I emailed Rich from Redeye back in may and he stated the O-rings will last 20k miles.  My OEMs last that long, so most likely the redeyes will last 40k IMO, but we will see.

[Tfrank59]

Thanks for posting this. I 'm glad to hear that I'm not the only one struggling with orings on assembly. It's been a crazy PIA!  

 well this is the first time I've had a problem, but the problem with the problem is you don't know you've got a problem until the next time you tear things down and then you find out oh crap I ruined it when I assembled it. I checked my maintenance records and back a few years and see where I was using the red eye polyurethane o rings and while they were a pain in the butt to put together they never failed. I'll go ahead and order me up another set but I think I'm good to go for this maintenance cycle and I do have essentially a new pumpkin and driveshaft installed now

now your forcing me to pull mine apart and check it. I should anyway I'm at 12k miles since they were installed with a new CT.

By the way I emailed Rich from Redeye back in may and he stated the O-rings will last 20k miles.  My OEMs last that long, so most likely the redeyes will last 40k IMO, but we will see.

If I keep talking about it long enough I'll end up pulling it apart just to look in there. Furthermore I'm seeing a little weeping gear oil on the new pumpkin and I'm hoping it's not the seal but that I possibly just overfilled it a little

[rug_burn]

I find on mine that if I put the axle thru the pumpkin, and then the wheel before trying to slide the wheel into the splines that it makes assembly easier, and the o-ring seems to survive a little better.  Did you lube that lead in chamfer, too?

[Tfrank59]

yep, same procedure for me and plenty of lube

[mello dude]

The flange has a rather sharp edge to it, and to try to help I filed/polished a chamfer on it.




I'm starting a new thread about a flange vs oring -- but pics below shows what happens on the 3rd oring if it stay put or you get a bit sideways in installation.


OEM ring



Redeye

[mello dude]

More phun..
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,107892.0.html

[Tfrank59]

Yep like I said in an earlier post, I worked on that chamfer this time and made it smoother and I tried assembling  the splines on the bench to make sure things went together okay. I see you performed your test with one of those red eye o rings which are almost impossible to shear.

[mello dude]

Yep like I said in an earlier post, I worked on that chamfer this time and made it smoother and I tried assembling  the splines on the bench to make sure things went together okay. I see you performed your test with one of those red eye o rings which are almost impossible to shear.

I didn't catch that beforehand,  so you worked on the edge of front of the flange too?

[Tfrank59]

Yep like I said in an earlier post, I worked on that chamfer this time and made it smoother and I tried assembling  the splines on the bench to make sure things went together okay. I see you performed your test with one of those red eye o rings which are almost impossible to shear.

I didn't catch that beforehand,  so you worked on the edge of front of the flange too?

no, just the lead-in chamfer