Q for someone that’s done it

[Chrisj CMA]

When the clutch slave needs rebuilding which parts do you replace?  The kits look minimal. They seem to only include the cup and spring. I would think the oil seal would be the main culprit. Do you ever need to replace the piston?  And last question can wear in the housing ie cylinder wall necessitate replacing the outer cover?

I’m trying to decide if I should replace the entire unit or just the seals and whatever  wear parts you recommend.

BTW.  Reason is I have detected a very slow loss of clutch fluid without an external leak. Clutch works great so I’m not too worried, just want to be ready if I have to do this in the near future.

[Chrisj CMA]

Ok looks like the kits have the oil seal. Some  include the piston some don’t.

With 166K I’m leaning towards the whole unit. What say youse?  T I A

[turtle254]

You have to remove the whole kickstand unit … will not come out with out do that.
The oil seal in the back of the trans. is a bitch … work slow and try and peel the metal ring inside the seal up and out, really hard to do on your back behind the trans. Do the seal inside the slave unit first
to learn how hard it is to do. Good luck, next time I might skip the oil seal inside the trans as it look good and it was the seal on the slave that leaked .. don't think the one in the trans would leak, I think it just centers the push rod.

[Chrisj CMA]

Thanks for that. I didn’t even know about that oil seal in the transmission.

[hubcapsc]

seems like you'd just get 22860-MZ0-000 and change all that? It's #5 in the
partzilla fiche picture.

-Mike "I never did it..."

[Chrisj CMA]

Exactly  Mike. Thanks to 3W-lonerider that’s exactly what I am doing. Bolt it right up and be done

[Skinhead]

I did it on an '87 1200 goldwing, but not on a valk.  It is a hydraulic cylinder, just like a brake caliper or wheel cylinder.  If your clutch doesn't release or is grabbing at lights with the lever in, it is the seal in the slave that needs replaced.  If oil is leaking out of the trans and down the back of the motor, it is the oil seal. 

If the fluid wasn't changed and the piston is corroded, it can be cleaned uo and reused if not pitted, same with the housing.  As with all hydraulics, smooth and no gouges is the key.  The rubber seal on the piston is the important part.  No nicks, cracks, or wear and you should be good to go.

[RonW]

The *push rod* seal (14) isn't included in the No. 5 set.

Note: the seal (14) is installed from the inside on most bikes. Or, just keep pounding on it. Another option, is squeezing the round seal into an oval like you were bending nickels with your fingers. Then you can slip the seal into the cover from the outside. The recess suppose to have a lip around it.

[SCain]

When I did mine, I wasn't aware of a Kit, so I just bought all the OEM seals, sealing washers and the o-ring at the bleeder. Really easy job, I remember having to move the kickstand bracket out of the way, I think I just removed one bolt and loosened the other to swing it out of the way.
I did replace the seal that the clutch push rod goes through, it just pops out from the outside, if you are there, do it.
I like mikes idea, a new unit is only $67.

[Paladin528]

I bought all the seals independently as well I also removed the entire rear cover as I needed to replace the damper plate anyway so the Clutch pack had to come out.  Replacing the pushrod seal was easy with the cover removed but its a pain in the hole to RE and RE

[John Schmidt]

Chris, I agree....replace the entire unit with a new slave. Order the rebuild parts for the old one but only after checking the condition of the cylinder and the side walls just to be certain they're in good enough shape to be reused. That's what I did on my bike and now have a spare slave if needed.