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Author Topic: Throttle Response  (Read 2988 times)
Valkocalypse
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« on: December 03, 2009, 06:58:49 AM »

Well, after a few weeks of running techron enriched gas and letting it sit in the carbs, The cylinders on the left side of the bike finally seem to be getting a proper amount of fuel.  However, it still doesn't sound right (hearing a miss in the left side exhaust still).  My Throttle response also has a massive amount of lag to it.  There is often a delay of .5 to 1.5 seconds between giving it throttle and the engine responding, sometimes as long a 2 full seconds.  Any ideas?  I'm seriously considering taking it to my dad's buddy that owns a dealership.  I just hate to be beaten by this thing as amateur as I may be.
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Joe Hummer
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« Reply #1 on: December 03, 2009, 07:04:01 AM »

Have you sync'd the carbs lately?
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1999 Valkyrie Interstate
You pay for the whole bike, why not use it Jerry Motorman Palladino
Ricky-D
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South Carolina midlands


« Reply #2 on: December 03, 2009, 08:03:57 AM »

The lag you report seems to be greatly exaggerated.

If there were that much lag, I'd say the only way it could be like that is it was running on one cylinder only.

Maybe if you give more information regarding your experience, like for instance at what range of rpm the lag occurs, what gear you are in and any other relevant info.

Have you checked the plugs?

Have you drained the carburetors to insure gasoline is getting to all of them?

Have you checked the air box and filter to insure there is no air restriction?

Is the bike desmogged or not?

It goes on and on!

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Valkocalypse
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« Reply #3 on: December 03, 2009, 08:37:39 AM »

I have checked the plugs.  I was not getting fuel to them when I started the techron treatment.  Now they are browning up nicely.  I have drained the carbs, they all appear to be getting gas.  I just replaced the air filter and checked the fuel lines for clogs.  The bike is not desmogged.  And it is some pretty serious lag, glaringly noticable, haven't timed it with a stopwatch or anything.  I am a little hesitant to take the carbs completely apart due to lack of a proper workspace for it.  There appears to be no restriction in the airbox and even the old filter I replaced was pretty clean.  The bike has 20k mi on it.  The lag seems worse in low rpm range, up to probably 3k, then it becomes a little more responsive until the rpm falls again.  Also, still no matter what I do with the idle set screw, the bike won't idle at all until warm, and when warm idles only for a short time with the tach gauge well below 1k.    I don't know if it makes any difference or not, but I have also changed the oil and coolant.
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roboto65
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Conroe,TX


« Reply #4 on: December 03, 2009, 08:44:48 AM »

I am thinking you are in need of new vachumm lines or desmog. I need to do my bike as my idle has been gettting irattic and slow to drop back down to the 1000 I have it set at and it is jumping around too. Mine still has all the smog stuff and it is most likely the lines leaking air!!!
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Allen Rugg                                                       
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1999 Illusion Blue Valkyrie Interstate
1978 Kawasaki KZ 650 project
sandy
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Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #5 on: December 03, 2009, 09:16:08 AM »

In addition to the other responses: Check vacuum hoses and the clamps on the intake and outlet of the carbs. The pilot screws are probably at stock settings. Most people find better response when the pilots are set between 2 and 2 1/2 turns out from being lightly seated. 1 3/4 is the stock setting. (CA bikes are 2 turns out.) My CA bike is set at 2 1/2 out. Motion Pro sells a pilot screw bit and Harbor Freight sells a knurled thumb handle the bit will fit into. As for your cold running issue: are you applying the choke fully? Push it till it stops and then push harder. It will move further and should start easier and stay running.
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Valkocalypse
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« Reply #6 on: December 03, 2009, 09:41:14 AM »

In regards to the choke... The bike doesn't like to run at all choked.  I have tried pushing the choke up all the way and this seems to increase the idle problem and doesn't seem to affect throttle response. 
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ptgb
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Youngstown, OH


« Reply #7 on: December 03, 2009, 10:05:41 AM »

No expert (not even close), but sounds like classic dirty carbs to me...
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Pete
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Frasier in Southeast Tennessee


« Reply #8 on: December 03, 2009, 12:25:36 PM »

+1 PTGB - classic low speed jet symptoms. CLEAN the carbs especially low speed jets (ie. slow jets, pilot jets, emulsion tubes). Pete.
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Ricky-D
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South Carolina midlands


« Reply #9 on: December 03, 2009, 02:48:45 PM »

I would not suggest taking the carburetors apart at all.

I think your Techron treatment is the correct path to follow.

if you can remove the gasoline tank I would suggest a full undiluted dose of Techron in each carburetor and let it sit for  week or so just like that.  Remove the tank, drain each carburetor, fill each carburetor with Techron by way of the fuel line. Removing the tank is not actually necessary if you can rig a line to connect to the bikes gas line.

I think your idle jets are seriously clogged and causing the majority of your problem.

It's not good to start taking stuff apart before you can get it running better.

Exhaust all remedies by way of additives and soaking before taking a more complex and problematic course of action.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
1fastbob
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South Central Kansas


« Reply #10 on: December 03, 2009, 04:06:50 PM »

I would not suggest taking the carburetors apart at all.

I think your Techron treatment is the correct path to follow.

if you can remove the gasoline tank I would suggest a full undiluted dose of Techron in each carburetor and let it sit for  week or so just like that.  Remove the tank, drain each carburetor, fill each carburetor with Techron by way of the fuel line. Removing the tank is not actually necessary if you can rig a line to connect to the bikes gas line.

I think your idle jets are seriously clogged and causing the majority of your problem.

It's not good to start taking stuff apart before you can get it running better.

Exhaust all remedies by way of additives and soaking before taking a more complex and problematic course of action.

***
-1.....

I would suggest if it doesn't soon correct itself that it will be necessary to remove the carbs and clean them.  Been there, done that.  Could have saved myself about $75.00 worth of Techron, B12 and Seafoam.  It did NOT help mine.  Has nearly the same symptoms. Shocked Shocked Shocked

Bob
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Pete
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Frasier in Southeast Tennessee


« Reply #11 on: December 03, 2009, 05:07:23 PM »

+1 1fastbob, it is a whole lot quicker to spend 4 hours removing and cleaning the carbs, fixing and getting on with riding, than the pour/soak route.  OBTW Seafoam and Techron are not strong enough to clean jets clogged solid(like concrete). Honda carb cleaner is stronger than either, it is also chemically more destructrive, so be careful with it.

Before removing the carbs, test to see which ones are suspect by pulling 1 spark wire at a time and observing idle drop or no drop. Drop = ok, no change suspect. That way you will know which carbs are the issue. But clean them all. I would expect to find 2 impaired at least, based on you comments. Thanks Pete.
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1fastbob
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South Central Kansas


« Reply #12 on: December 03, 2009, 06:14:28 PM »

+1 1fastbob, it is a whole lot quicker to spend 4 hours removing and cleaning the carbs, fixing and getting on with riding, than the pour/soak route.  OBTW Seafoam and Techron are not strong enough to clean jets clogged solid(like concrete). Honda carb cleaner is stronger than either, it is also chemically more destructrive, so be careful with it.

Before removing the carbs, test to see which ones are suspect by pulling 1 spark wire at a time and observing idle drop or no drop. Drop = ok, no change suspect. That way you will know which carbs are the issue. But clean them all. I would expect to find 2 impaired at least, based on you comments. Thanks Pete.
I used an infrared heatgun on the exhaust headers and found that number 6 is dead at idle.  I am waiting for warmer weather to take the carbs out the third time.  This time they will be removed from the brackets soaked in carb cleaner and new o'rings installed and I'll bet it doesn't give me any more problems.  Putting a strong solvent in them while they are assembled is a good way to ruin some very expensive CV diaphrams. I completley agree with you.

Bob
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Pete
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Frasier in Southeast Tennessee


« Reply #13 on: December 03, 2009, 06:46:44 PM »

1fastbob - it usually is not necessary to separate the carbs from the brackets. A careful dis-assembly/cleaning of the jets, needles and jet passages has worked for me every time.  But I wish you good luck with whatever you decide. Thanks Pete.
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1fastbob
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South Central Kansas


« Reply #14 on: December 04, 2009, 04:21:04 AM »

1fastbob - it usually is not necessary to separate the carbs from the brackets. A careful dis-assembly/cleaning of the jets, needles and jet passages has worked for me every time.  But I wish you good luck with whatever you decide. Thanks Pete.
Mine sat for a couple of 3 years and last time I tooks the carb assy out and cleaned the jets, passages and bowls.  #6 slow jet is plugged again and it will be necessary to remove all the fuel piping to get out any debris between the carbs to prevent me from having to do it a 4th time. It will be a great time to replace all those little o'rings.  As I am sure you know...leaving a bike sitting for 2 or 3 years with fuel in it is NOT a good thing.  My bike is an example of extreme neglect by the previous owner.

Thanks

Bob
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