Dyna 3000 with attic rat mods

[rocketray]

I talked w/him today and he says the pistons can burn with the combo of his mods--it seems I read some posts by Willow he runs the combo...any one else? or fails?

[The emperor has no clothes]

No experience, but I would take to heart anything AtticRat says. 

[Willow]

--it seems I read some posts by Willow he runs the combo...any one else? or fails?

Not the combo.  I run the Dyna but without the upgraded Attic Rat mods.

The Dyna, btw, has multiple settings.  You can dial it to behave almost just like the OEM ICM or you can select several other curves, some with a little advance; some with a lot.

[98valk]

if u want it to be plug-n-play and forget about it, don't use it.

u will have to tune it like anything else. with the slightly higher compression from the AR mods u would have to use a curve with less advance down low when under load and can use more advance during hwy cruise light load. u would will have to use the on/off 10 degree feature.

I run a dyna, modified OEM TW, I have to check on the curve but it is the same as the I/S oem curve with the 10 degrees off. I use the added 10 degrees with light load.  this is with stock compression.

[turtle254]

if u want it to be plug-n-play and forget about it, don't use it.

u will have to tune it like anything else. with the slightly higher compression from the AR mods u would have to use a curve with less advance down low when under load and can use more advance during hwy cruise light load. u would will have to use the on/off 10 degree feature.

I run a dyna, modified OEM TW, I have to check on the curve but it is the same as the I/S oem curve with the 10 degrees off. I use the added 10 degrees with light load.  this is with stock compression.

I'm running dyna with curve 6 and 8 deg retard + (atticRat)
What is "modified OEM TW" ? ,Also what curve number are you using?

[98valk]

if u want it to be plug-n-play and forget about it, don't use it.

u will have to tune it like anything else. with the slightly higher compression from the AR mods u would have to use a curve with less advance down low when under load and can use more advance during hwy cruise light load. u would will have to use the on/off 10 degree feature.

I run a dyna, modified OEM TW, I have to check on the curve but it is the same as the I/S oem curve with the 10 degrees off. I use the added 10 degrees with light load.  this is with stock compression.

I'm running dyna with curve 6 and 8 deg retard + (atticRat)
What is "modified OEM TW" ? ,Also what curve number are you using?

OEM Trigger Wheel.  one side of the keyway is filed to provide 6 degrees, BigBf posted about this and what to do many moons ago.  I run curve 7 plus 6 degree TW and add the 10 degrees when not under load. @ 4k rpm advance is 35.5 for max mpg, ideally the advance should be in the 40s.  for max power 10 degrees is off for max advance of 25.5 degrees.   to increase life of dyna do not use the oem rubber boot, use an aluminum bracket. 

[turtle254]

if u want it to be plug-n-play and forget about it, don't use it.

u will have to tune it like anything else. with the slightly higher compression from the AR mods u would have to use a curve with less advance down low when under load and can use more advance during hwy cruise light load. u would will have to use the on/off 10 degree feature.

I run a dyna, modified OEM TW, I have to check on the curve but it is the same as the I/S oem curve with the 10 degrees off. I use the added 10 degrees with light load.  this is with stock compression.

I'm running dyna with curve 6 and 8 deg retard + (atticRat)
What is "modified OEM TW" ? ,Also what curve number are you using?

OEM Trigger Wheel.  one side of the keyway is filed to provide 6 degrees, BigBf posted about this and what to do many moons ago.  I run curve 7 plus 6 degree TW and add the 10 degrees when not under load. @ 4k rpm advance is 35.5 for max mpg, ideally the advance should be in the 40s.  for max power 10 degrees is off for max advance of 25.5 degrees.   to increase life of dyna do not use the oem rubber boot, use an aluminum bracket. 

Also made clear plastic cap for top of Dyna to keep water off and building up on dial area.

[dago mooserider]

I have the Dyna ignition with the attic rat mods + Viking exhaust. 121 horsepower on the Dyno at a h-d shop-their mouths all dropped lol... I don't remember my setting on the Dyna but I have on occasion, when it's good and hot, heard some pinging down at low rpm and loading it. I run 91 octane only. I've been meaning to use another setting on the Dyna to pull a little timing out of it. I have pulled a plug and it looked fine (not white).

[turtle254]

I have the Dyna ignition with the attic rat mods + Viking exhaust. 121 horsepower on the Dyno at a h-d shop-their mouths all dropped lol... I don't remember my setting on the Dyna but I have on occasion, when it's good and hot, heard some pinging down at low rpm and loading it. I run 91 octane only. I've been meaning to use another setting on the Dyna to pull a little timing out of it. I have pulled a plug and it looked fine (not white).

Need your curve setting to mean anything.

[98valk]

I have the Dyna ignition with the attic rat mods + Viking exhaust. 121 horsepower on the Dyno at a h-d shop-their mouths all dropped lol... I don't remember my setting on the Dyna but I have on occasion, when it's good and hot, heard some pinging down at low rpm and loading it. I run 91 octane only. I've been meaning to use another setting on the Dyna to pull a little timing out of it. I have pulled a plug and it looked fine (not white).

any air box mods and jetting? where the heads ported and polished and flow benched?

[turtle254]

98valk, Do you have a procedure for using a timing light on the Valkyrie that you could show us?
Thanks

[98valk]

98valk, Do you have a procedure for using a timing light on the Valkyrie that you could show us?
Thanks

I have never done that. here are the curves.
looks like they took down the manual page that showed the OEM I/S curve
http://www.powercommander.com/downloads/Support-Released/Dynatek/Manuals/D3K1-1RevD.pdf

here is what a Goldwing owner did using a timing light.

https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/320266-gl1500-ecm-ignition-timing.html

[turtle254]

98valk, Do you have a procedure for using a timing light on the Valkyrie that you could show us?
Thanks

I have never done that. here are the curves.
looks like they took down the manual page that showed the OEM I/S curve
http://www.powercommander.com/downloads/Support-Released/Dynatek/Manuals/D3K1-1RevD.pdf

here is what a Goldwing owner did using a timing light.

https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/320266-gl1500-ecm-ignition-timing.html

Thanks

[98valk]

98valk, Do you have a procedure for using a timing light on the Valkyrie that you could show us?
Thanks

I have never done that. here are the curves.
looks like they took down the manual page that showed the OEM I/S curve
http://www.powercommander.com/downloads/Support-Released/Dynatek/Manuals/D3K1-1RevD.pdf

here is what a Goldwing owner did using a timing light.

https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/320266-gl1500-ecm-ignition-timing.html

Thanks

welcome.   

[dago mooserider]

I have the Dyna ignition with the attic rat mods + Viking exhaust. 121 horsepower on the Dyno at a h-d shop-their mouths all dropped lol... I don't remember my setting on the Dyna but I have on occasion, when it's good and hot, heard some pinging down at low rpm and loading it. I run 91 octane only. I've been meaning to use another setting on the Dyna to pull a little timing out of it. I have pulled a plug and it looked fine (not white).

Need your curve setting to mean anything.

I am running curve 7. Thinking I might try 9. I think 9 has less timing down low?

[dago mooserider]

I have the Dyna ignition with the attic rat mods + Viking exhaust. 121 horsepower on the Dyno at a h-d shop-their mouths all dropped lol... I don't remember my setting on the Dyna but I have on occasion, when it's good and hot, heard some pinging down at low rpm and loading it. I run 91 octane only. I've been meaning to use another setting on the Dyna to pull a little timing out of it. I have pulled a plug and it looked fine (not white).

any air box mods and jetting? where the heads ported and polished and flow benched?

Just the mods that attic rat does. Air box is modded and I know he polishes the intakes but not sure about the heads. I thought he did a little port work on them but not sure. The carbs are jetted per attic rat but I had to shim the needles some cause it was a tad lean down low. (When attic rat tuned it it had the stock headers and I later added the Viking exhaust).

[98valk]

I have the Dyna ignition with the attic rat mods + Viking exhaust. 121 horsepower on the Dyno at a h-d shop-their mouths all dropped lol... I don't remember my setting on the Dyna but I have on occasion, when it's good and hot, heard some pinging down at low rpm and loading it. I run 91 octane only. I've been meaning to use another setting on the Dyna to pull a little timing out of it. I have pulled a plug and it looked fine (not white).

any air box mods and jetting? where the heads ported and polished and flow benched?

Just the mods that attic rat does. Air box is modded and I know he polishes the intakes but not sure about the heads. I thought he did a little port work on them but not sure. The carbs are jetted per attic rat but I had to shim the needles some cause it was a tad lean down low. (When attic rat tuned it it had the stock headers and I later added the Viking exhaust).

yes #9 has less than STD/tourer ICM.  have u consider using the 10 degree retard feature?  what method did u use to determine u were lean?

[DarkSideR]

For a short time I ran a Dyna3000 after receiving the GLH Package on my Standard. I used every adjustment on the Dyna but couldn't find one particular setting that stood out. I also didn't like how hard the Dyna made cold starts. 60+ degrees = Hard to start. Under 60 degrees = forget about starting it. Living in Colorado and riding year round, this was unacceptable.

And since the Dyna modules bring in a small fortune I sold it, and am currently happy with the stock ICM and it's reliability.

Lastly, I think you might have misunderstood Bob. One will burn up their motor when they set the RPM limit too high on the Dyna. Don't go past the 7250 setting!!!! Other than that I have played with all the curves with  no ill effects. Well.. so long as you are running premium gas!

[dago mooserider]

I have the Dyna ignition with the attic rat mods + Viking exhaust. 121 horsepower on the Dyno at a h-d shop-their mouths all dropped lol... I don't remember my setting on the Dyna but I have on occasion, when it's good and hot, heard some pinging down at low rpm and loading it. I run 91 octane only. I've been meaning to use another setting on the Dyna to pull a little timing out of it. I have pulled a plug and it looked fine (not white).

any air box mods and jetting? where the heads ported and polished and flow benched?

Just the mods that attic rat does. Air box is modded and I know he polishes the intakes but not sure about the heads. I thought he did a little port work on them but not sure. The carbs are jetted per attic rat but I had to shim the needles some cause it was a tad lean down low. (When attic rat tuned it it had the stock headers and I later added the Viking exhaust).

I have the Dyna ignition with the attic rat mods + Viking exhaust. 121 horsepower on the Dyno at a h-d shop-their mouths all dropped lol... I don't remember my setting on the Dyna but I have on occasion, when it's good and hot, heard some pinging down at low rpm and loading it. I run 91 octane only. I've been meaning to use another setting on the Dyna to pull a little timing out of it. I have pulled a plug and it looked fine (not white).

any air box mods and jetting? where the heads ported and polished and flow benched?

Just the mods that attic rat does. Air box is modded and I know he polishes the intakes but not sure about the heads. I thought he did a little port work on them but not sure. The carbs are jetted per attic rat but I had to shim the needles some cause it was a tad lean down low. (When attic rat tuned it it had the stock headers and I later added the Viking exhaust).

yes #9 has less than STD/tourer ICM.  have u consider using the 10 degree retard feature?  what method did u use to determine u were lean?

Yeah, I may put nitrous on it some day and was planning to use the retard feature for that. 10 degrees is a lot to pull out if you don't have some kind of forced induction.
 While on the Dyno they had a probe shoved up the exhaust  combined with a slight dip in torque at low rpm on the graph. Dude said the afr was at the low end of safe. I never re-dynoed after shimming the needles because it runs so good.
I'm running the factory needles instead of the adjustable ones. I kept getting this weird flutter at part throttle with the adjustable ones. Bob likes the factory needles best and they do seem to be smoother - at least for me.

[PharmBoy]

I first met Bob Smith a few years ago when I took a friend's bike to get Bob's performance package. The increase in performance was amazing. I had tried a few performance mods, but never achieved any results like this.  Over the years since, I have acquired three of Bob's (GLH) performance packages and have gotten to know him quite well. His GLH Package was developed over a period of years by his constant trial & error, which cost him considerable time and money. I have found him to be honest and very knowledgeable about our Valkyries. When Bob says the standard ICM is what to use, that is good enough for me.  Increased RPM makes more HP alright, but at the risk of a blown engine, spun rod bearings, holes burned in pistons, etc. I'd say proceed at your own risk. Also, as far as I know, no one knows what the compression ratio is on one of his mods. They do require higher octane gasoline. I would however, warn against using 100LL aviation fuel.  I burn it in my airplane engine which is designed for 100LL.  Any engine design will only give you so much HP before it becomes temperamental and not suitable for street use. I'd say to experiment on your own engine at your own risk.

[MarkT]

Also, as far as I know, no one knows what the compression ratio is on one of his mods.

Rather than concern with theoretical compression ratio which would be difficult to calculate and impossible if one didn't have all the pertinent measurements - and subject to range of error - why not just use a compression tester and get the average of all 6 cylinders of a recent AR build - and mention which options were done? Compare that to atmospheric pressure to get the CR.  Seems the resulting actual CR is the one that counts anyway.

[Wood Butcher]

You got a man that has been doing these performance mods for years and has a great reputation and great reviews on his work. He spent a lot of time and testing to develop this package. Obviously you don’t have the knowledge or means to do it or you wouldn’t be paying Bob to do it? So why would you not use what he recommends for his specialized package?

[Safety Steve]

Wood. I could not of said that any better....