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Author Topic: Interstate to Tourer  (Read 2615 times)
NEHI
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Posts: 220


« on: December 04, 2009, 08:39:18 AM »

   I want to remove the trunk on my I/S and go to the Tourer look, besides the tail light and seat back what other things do I need to consider? ie wiring subharness etc.
   Thanks...
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NITRO
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Posts: 1002


Eau Claire, WI


« Reply #1 on: December 04, 2009, 09:05:02 AM »

I can't help you with the wiring, but I think the most important point would be the step in which you put the trunk in a box and ship it to me in Wisconsin...
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When in doubt, ride.
mirion
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Posts: 254

1997 Std - 2000 IS

Frankenmuth, Michigan


« Reply #2 on: December 04, 2009, 09:24:29 AM »

One problem is you lose your passenger sissy bar which can be remedied in a few different ways. Put the Tourer fender rails on and get a Hondaline sissy bar assembly, fabricate a sissy bar that bolts on to the trunk studs on the IS fender rails (as in picture 1) or go to a Corbin 3-piece seat with the sissy bar that plugs into the rear seat (picture 2 is that Corbin seat on the black 97 but the bar isn't plugged in in the photo, the IS in the pic has the Tourer fender rails and sissy bar).

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NEHI
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Posts: 220


« Reply #3 on: December 04, 2009, 09:58:27 AM »

   Thanks for the info! I may have to go for broke (literally) and buy all Hondaline parts. I have looked on Ebay and other used parts suppliers for months and have not seen any tail light assemblies or sissy bars. What about the wiring?
    Nitrojunkie, I new somebody would post that. Actually I'm just doing this to get a sportier look for short trips and will reinstall the trunk for the long hauls.
    Thanks again!!!
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RLD
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Posts: 318


'99 I/S Red/Black

Eden Prairie, MN


« Reply #4 on: December 04, 2009, 10:28:45 AM »

Search for "super Valk", you'll find lots of info. I ordered the tail light and solo seat from Direct line. I prefer the stock seat though as the solo seems to push me further forward and crowds me. May end up selling the solo, not sure yet. You will have to splice into the wiring harness under the right cover. Personally. I like the handling difference even more than the look. It's amazing what getting rid of that weight does.
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Dress for the slide, not the ride. ATGATT
VRCC #2505
Jack B
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Posts: 1534


Two Rivers Wis


« Reply #5 on: December 04, 2009, 07:10:27 PM »

You don't have to use a Honda tail light just go to a swap meet and find one that will fit and it will be custom.
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Let’s RIDE
BamaDrifter64
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Posts: 1020


Athens, Alabama


« Reply #6 on: December 05, 2009, 11:17:42 AM »

Here's a Valk taillight on ebay right now -

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-Valkyrie-GL1500-REAR-TAILLIGHT-BRAKELIGHT_W0QQitemZ350288880674QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item518ed82422
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BradValk48237
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Posts: 1716


Oak Park, MI


« Reply #7 on: December 05, 2009, 07:48:18 PM »

Best thing I ever did.   I think the same tailight is used on the VTX also. I got mine used. I wired the new fender taillight into the exsisting plug for the trunk, also wired a 4 wire plug from radio shack for the rear speakers. all of them are under the seat.  Left the plug the same and modified the trunk brackets and front cross member to the easy on/off mode.... Used the instructions on here. Just picked up front seat from a standard for $40 on Ebayand using it as a solo seat. I love the feel now and I actually think there is less turbulence with the trunk off. Only problem is the Utopi back rest bracket dented the top of the fender so now I am looking for a way to cover it up without major modification and with out the standard seat pad.

Trunk goes on in 5 mins.......

Good luck.

Brad






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Jess from VA
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Posts: 30456


No VA


« Reply #8 on: December 05, 2009, 08:18:09 PM »

  I want to remove the trunk on my I/S and go to the Tourer look, besides the tail light and seat back what other things do I need to consider? ie wiring subharness etc.
   Thanks...


http://bigbf.com/bigbf_shop/mod_i-s_trunk/

http://www.f6rider.com/Articles/10_minute_super_valk.htm

« Last Edit: December 05, 2009, 08:19:48 PM by Jess from VA » Logged
RLD
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Posts: 318


'99 I/S Red/Black

Eden Prairie, MN


« Reply #9 on: December 08, 2009, 05:05:30 AM »

FYI, the notches shown in the previous pictures will not keep the trunk from coming off if a bolt loosens. Look at Big BF's pictures for a safer cut.
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Dress for the slide, not the ride. ATGATT
VRCC #2505
Airetime
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Posts: 156


U Never See a Valk Parked @ a Psychiatrist Office

Anacortes, WA


« Reply #10 on: December 08, 2009, 07:09:06 AM »

  I want to remove the trunk on my I/S and go to the Tourer look, besides the tail light and seat back what other things do I need to consider? ie wiring subharness etc.
   Thanks...


Digging into the past, this was transferred to Shop Talk years ago. I think that you will find it very helpful, especially with dealing with the backrest. http://www.f6rider.com/Articles/10_minute_super_valk.htm
 coolsmiley
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Larry
Member
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Posts: 263


Northeastern BC, Canada


« Reply #11 on: December 08, 2009, 11:59:08 AM »

One problem is you lose your passenger sissy bar which can be remedied in a few different ways. Put the Tourer fender rails on and get a Hondaline sissy bar assembly, fabricate a sissy bar that bolts on to the trunk studs on the IS fender rails (as in picture 1) or go to a Corbin 3-piece seat with the sissy bar that plugs into the rear seat (picture 2 is that Corbin seat on the black 97 but the bar isn't plugged in in the photo, the IS in the pic has the Tourer fender rails and sissy bar).




Your Beattle Bag SV looks great!! May have to convert over to those bags when I get a spare $1000.  crazy2
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To Ride or Not To Ride? RIDE of course!!!
BradValk48237
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Posts: 1716


Oak Park, MI


« Reply #12 on: December 08, 2009, 02:46:51 PM »

Actually RTD, I was going to make the cuts the same with the slots as shown. But I had some spare scrap and played around with the cuts because I didn't like the way the cut is visible from most angles. Also it required removing more material and left more surface area open to rust. The way I made my cuts, you really have to look to see the cuts and the trunk stays in place without ANY bolts secured. In either configuration, if all 4 bolts happened to come loose, and you hit a good bump, there is a chance that the rear slots could hop out. In the case of the standard cuts, the rear is more vertical and the front provided a good pivot point- even if the bolts are tight....I tried it. With cuts I made, the trunk can only come of, if all 4 nuts came loose, and the direction of the bump/force is only in a forward and upward motion at the same time, could the  trunk come off/loose. As it is, I can set the trunk on and you cannot lift the trunk by pulling up on the very rear or the trunk...It's fairly tight. With the standard cut, you can lift the rear of the trunk fairly easily, which to me,  made a bouce off senario more likely. By the time you put a 1 inch chrome fender washer under the nuts in front, you cannot even tell there was a cut made( the picture is with no washers and the bolts are all loose). With the standard cut the front of the bracket is noticibly altered and looks not so nice. So I leave it up to the individual on which path to take

Sorry the picture isnt better...... but you can see no cut.....


Not being a snoot, but there always is more than one way skin a cat.... or cut a Valk..... Smiley

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BradValk48237
Member
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Posts: 1716


Oak Park, MI


« Reply #13 on: December 08, 2009, 02:47:40 PM »

Sorry..RLD..my bad...

Brad
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