Carb rebuild

[msb]

Is there a definitive article or post on rebuilding the carbs? I've searched & read  multiple posts from the past...along with the ensuing debate over whether certain practices are correct or not, so I was wondering if anyone can link me to something appropriate from a true expert in this regard.

A bit of info: 99 Interstate with approx. 190,000 km (118,000 mi) that I've owned for 18 years. Carbs  were "cleaned" about 8-9 years ago by the dealer that I purchased the bike through which solved a rough running issue I had but I have no idea what they actually did (could have just run Seafoam through them for all I know...was the last time I had the bike in there as they stopped servicing "old" bikes).  Bike has run pretty decently since as it never sits without at least being run for long periods even through the Winter and have had the carbs synced a couple time since, but I figured it's time to get all the rubber bits replaced and just have them rebuilt now for longer term reliability. Won't be doing the work myself, but I do have a guy locally who is an ex Honda mechanic now working out of his garage that says he can do the job. I'd just like to educate myself to make sure I know what's involved before going ahead. Any direction to the proper info would be greatly appreciated!  Thx.

[The emperor has no clothes]

There is a guy that did some YouTube videos of rebuilding the carbs. I think his handle was DRay. I will try to find them.


This was #5 in his series. I think if you click on his name it will bring up all of them.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=eDLTpQCTBsc

[98valk]

use the service manual and red eye kit. free download here, http://www.valkyrienorway.com/download.html
All of so called rubber is Buna-N which is designed for 10% ethanol. 15% eth will harm it over yrs of service how many yrs don't know but it could be calculated.
always use a stabilizer every tank. I prefer the new stabil which emits fumes which coat parts of the tank and carbs not immersed in fuel.
I also use TC-W3 fuel additive. keeps carbs clean, lubricates needles moving up/down inside of needle well, and keeps head valves clean. Also will see 1-2 mpg increase.
can read here http://www.ls1.com/forums/f48/been-testing-oil-91206/

If u decide to take them apart, when removing the carb bank, remove both upper engine supports per the manual and the carbs will slide right out. no need or reason to remove radiator shield and the headaches it will give you. the you-tube guy didn't read the manual.

[tonybluegoat]

u
I also use TC-W3 fuel additive. keeps carbs clean, lubricates needles moving up/down inside of needle well, and keeps head valves clean. Also will see 1-2 mpg increase.
can read here http://www.ls1.com/forums/f48/been-testing-oil-91206/

I'm going to use that oil treatment on my bike and in my Prius (which has over 200k on the current engine... 400k on the car)

Thanks

[98valk]

u
I also use TC-W3 fuel additive. keeps carbs clean, lubricates needles moving up/down inside of needle well, and keeps head valves clean. Also will see 1-2 mpg increase.
can read here http://www.ls1.com/forums/f48/been-testing-oil-91206/

I'm going to use that oil treatment on my bike and in my Prius (which has over 200k on the current engine... 400k on the car)

Thanks

 

just use the dosage ratio he provides and consider what is still in the tank if it was already treated.
I used too much in the bikes a few times at first and noticed a difference, esp the Dr200 thumper.
I use it in my diesel all of the time, even there, a difference if too much.

[Ricky-D]

Rebuild is a misnomer.

That first guy did you "right" A good cleaning is all that can be done and replace any parts that are out of specifications.

First up though is a good program of additive and riding.

The greatest help to a proper running carburetor is using non-ethanol enriched gasoline. Well worth the money regardless of the cost.

Using old outdated automotive processes and trying to apply them to the Valkyrie is folly.

***