best forward pegs

[rocketray]

any recomendations?

[sandy]

Too many choices and variables. Your height, leg length among others.

[rocketray]

5 ft 10 and 210# 32 inch inseam......Standard Valk

[hubcapsc]

I like Kuryakyn 4050 pegs, mounted on the curve of the lower/smaller
part of the engine crash guard. There are three different length arms,
which was helpful to me when I was trying to make them work on
my 1800. They have the little tab that presses on the underneath
of the valve cover to prevent the pegs from rotating, instead of
depending on just cranking down on the clamp like some others.



Even if you think it is comfortable, it is probably a bad idea to mount any
pegs in such a way as to introduce a new "first point to drag in a curve".

-Mike

[Jess from VA]

I concur with the 4050s.  They have the very best clamp there is.  And, unlike anything mounted on the 9 and 3 o'clock on the outer engine guards, when the 4050s are folded up, they are inboard of everything and will not get hit (or snapped off) in a tip over, drop or fall and slide.

Set up like most people do, with the pegs rotated up close to (but behind) the engine guards, you will still have comfortably bent knees (not straight locked out legs), but you can slide your boots out over the pegs if you want to stretch all the way out.  However, when I do this with my short 29" inseam legs, I can end up with my calves touching the rear corner of the valve covers which get warm enough to make you "ouch."  My solution (when all stretched out), is to move my feet out to the outer edge of the pegs so my calves are off the valve covers.

Mick-o-peg owners rave about their comfort and function.  I've never tried any, but they seem to be lower than I like, and I don't want spring loaded moving hwy pegs.  And they're pretty spendy ($380).

[..]

Even if you think it is comfortable, it is probably a bad idea to mount any
pegs in such a way as to introduce a new "first point to drag in a curve".

-Mike

Oh yeah. Especially if it's a non flexible blacktop connection. A good way to lift the weight off the front wheel.

[hueco]

I like Kuryakyn 4050 pegs, mounted on the curve of the lower/smaller
part of the engine crash guard. There are three different length arms,
which was helpful to me when I was trying to make them work on
my 1800. They have the little tab that presses on the underneath
of the valve cover to prevent the pegs from rotating, instead of
depending on just cranking down on the clamp like some others.



Even if you think it is comfortable, it is probably a bad idea to mount any
pegs in such a way as to introduce a new "first point to drag in a curve".

-Mike

hubcapsc. Very interesting shifter setup you got there. Pray tell. What is that?

[hubcapsc]

hubcapsc. Very interesting shifter setup you got there. Pray tell. What is that?

That's "forward controls" from Big Bike Things: https://www.bigbikethings.com/Forward_Controls/p4325477_16647555.aspx

They're sold out right now, but they've always made more batches...

They don't move your controls forward, you retain the normal controls, but
you also have a shifter and brake pedal that you can reach from your highway pegs.

-Mike

[MarkT]

hubcapsc. Very interesting shifter setup you got there. Pray tell. What is that?

That's "forward controls" from Big Bike Things: https://www.bigbikethings.com/Forward_Controls/p4325477_16647555.aspx

They're sold out right now, but they've always made more batches...

They don't move your controls forward, you retain the normal controls, but
you also have a shifter and brake pedal that you can reach from your highway pegs.

-Mike

I improved my BBT forward controls on 2 of my valks by adding Heim joints.  One reason, the adjustment "lock" on the end of the footpeg lever slipped especially on the brake side which gets more force.  The intermediate connecting link thus becomes the adjustment like a turnbuckle with left and right threads on the ends at the Heim joints.  The joints also eliminated the end bearing slop.  The original pedal adjustment was welded fixed. I also changed the lever ratios on them.  On Deerslayer which has high miles I needed to add a spring to reset the internal shift linkage.  Wasn't needed on the low mile 97 Tourer Jade.  On both I replaced the bent brake actuator rod which pulled directly on the master cylinder, to a straight rod that was attached with 2 Heim joints, to a bellcrank welded on the foot pedal arm.  Before that, the bent pull rod would flex and I had no brake authority.  Now they both have great brakes.  Lastly, I removed the highway peg brace they provided, and used Kuryakyn highway pegs instead.  I also used Kury pegs on their control levers with extenders made from aluminum tubing.  

I understand why BBT didn't make these improvements as they would be expensive and price them out of the market.  And make the install so hard most wouldn't buy the product.  However the changes were necessary for me, to make the controls work properly.  I understand Mike is happy with his.  I think he would be impressed if he rode mine and experienced the improvements.

Left side shot of Jade's fwd controls.  Compare to Mike's shot above to see the changes.  Note the Aampro shifter anchor mod as well:




Video walkaround of BBT fwd controls install on Deerslayer:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltgVugCRfFg

[CoreyP]

I have the Kuryakyn 4050 pegs, comfortable and for me in the right place. I'm 6 ft with a 32 inch inseam.

Mine are mounted like the picture above so they won't be the first thing to scrap. I haven't gotten that low but I'm thinking my exhaust will scrap first, I have the glass pack mod on my Val.   

[MAGA]

I just received the 4050 and won't fit due to cooling fins on the mounts. Should I return them? I have a 99 I/S.

[hubcapsc]

I just received the 4050 and won't fit due to cooling fins on the mounts. Should I return them? I have a 99 I/S.

Hang on... people here have them on Interstates... they'll chime in...

-Mike

[Jess from VA]

Two work-arounds, so don't send them back.

1. The scoops can be cut off an Interstate to get the mounts up where they are supposed to be.  One of my bikes came that way with the 4050s already on.  The scoops certainly aren't necessary, and removing them is in no way obvious, and it compromises nothing (in the way of cooling if that was actually their purpose)(in fact they have the same use value as male nipples, unless you wear jewelry there).  Throw a bit of clear coat or clear fingernail polish on the cuts to avoid any corrosion.

2.  You can slide the mount clamps down low enough to (just) clear the scoops and the pegs should still work fine for you, folded or out.  But (and I never did this), it's possible that if mounted this way, that deployed pegs could drag in a hard lean, like earlier than the foot pegs.  I don't use Hwy pegs doing twisty riding but some do.  This would be a trial and error to see if it worked for you.  Also, I understand the 4050s come with different length arms now, and the length of yours may be relevant to how this would work for you.  

I have had my boots drug off my pegs before at speed and in hard leans a few times, and it really twisted up my knee (not ankle) pretty good (and wasn't nice on my boot either).