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Author Topic: Trailer with electric brakes question  (Read 1167 times)
Jersey mike
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Brick,NJ


« on: February 19, 2020, 11:56:24 AM »


Hello all, I have an ‘03 E150 with factory 7 way harness. Have never pulled a trailer with electric brakes but we’re looking to get a 24’-26’ enclosed trailer which has electric brakes.

It’s been a few years since I hooked up a trailer so today I checked all the connections with a test light, I had power to everything EXCEPT the electric brake.

I do have a 20A fuse under the hood in the correct location for Electric Brake and when I pulled the fuse it did not look bad.

Do I need an electric brake controller installed/hooked up to power that specific electric brake connection on the 7way?

Anyone recommend specific brake controller....good....better....best.

my ‘03 E150 will not be pulling this on a regular basis, one of our E350 vans will be doing that once we get it set up with hitch, wiring, brake controller and other goodies.

Thanks for any help
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WintrSol
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Florissant, MO


« Reply #1 on: February 19, 2020, 12:09:47 PM »

When we hooked up the e-brakes on our camping trailer, we connected a direct power wire to a controller, and the output of the controller to the trailer brake wire. The controller allows you to ramp up the brake pressure at an adjustable rate and strength, to match the pulling vehicle. In my case, that vehicle is the Valkyrie. The controller switches on with the brake lights, so I can have the trailer gently brake without actually braking the bike, say, when going into a downhill corner, just to keep it in line. Unless the trailer has its own brake controller, the power required to operate the brakes is fairly high, so you can't just power them with the brake lights. If it has its own controller, it will use the brake lights to activate the brakes.

I'd guess you need a wiring diagram for your towing vehicles, as well as info on how the brakes work in the trailer.
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98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
Jersey mike
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Brick,NJ


« Reply #2 on: February 19, 2020, 01:03:04 PM »

M Y owner’s manual does not cover trailering or electric brake too much, so I’m not sure what’s going on.
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WintrSol
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Florissant, MO


« Reply #3 on: February 19, 2020, 01:49:07 PM »

M Y owner’s manual does not cover trailering or electric brake too much, so I’m not sure what’s going on.
Try searching for a wiring diagram; if you can read it, the info will be there. If not, and you can link to it, maybe one of us can, and explain what to hook up. Got the manual for the trailer?
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98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
Jersey mike
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Posts: 10293

Brick,NJ


« Reply #4 on: February 20, 2020, 04:58:51 AM »

Trying to dig up a diagram it may be in my shop manual. Trying to find other info online too. We haven’t bought a trailer yet but while we’re looking I’m trying to stay ahead of the curve.

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Challenger
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« Reply #5 on: February 20, 2020, 07:49:05 AM »

If your truck has the 7 pin connector and the 20 amp trailer brake fuse, all the necessary wiring should already be factory installed. All you need is a compatible controller to mount under the dash and plug into existing harness. The controller connector should be located behind the radio somewhere. Search youtube and you should be able to find the info.
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MarkT
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« Reply #6 on: February 20, 2020, 11:07:21 AM »

My trailer brake controller has tuning dials on it.  They need to be set and tested before departing on a trip.  The trailer weight affects the settings.  You need to mount the controller where you can easily reach it while driving.  I installed it to control the brakes on my Timeout camper.  I wired it with a separate 2-wire plug at the back, adjacent to the std flat 4-wire trailer plug.  I also pull 2 more trailers w/o brakes.  The Tekonsha controller was one of the offerings that came with the brake kit.  There are two types, proportional and time-based.  Here's a link describing them: https://www.carbibles.com/best-trailer-brake-controller/

The Tekonsha trailer brake control is under the Escort.  I stick the radar on top with Velcro.

  
« Last Edit: February 20, 2020, 11:15:41 AM by MarkT » Logged


Vietnam-474 TFW Takhli 9-12/72 Linebckr II;307 SBW U-Tapao 05/73-4
Jersey mike
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Brick,NJ


« Reply #7 on: February 20, 2020, 12:05:28 PM »

If your truck has the 7 pin connector and the 20 amp trailer brake fuse, all the necessary wiring should already be factory installed. All you need is a compatible controller to mount under the dash and plug into existing harness. The controller connector should be located behind the radio somewhere. Search youtube and you should be able to find the info.

Ok, so...The Brake Controller, when it is hooked up is what sends power to the rear of the truck to the 7 way wiring harness....that’s when I should get a power reading at that position on the 7 way, Correct??

A no power reading now at the Electric brake position on the wiring harness is not a sign of a bad connection.
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WintrSol
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Florissant, MO


« Reply #8 on: February 20, 2020, 12:32:31 PM »

That would be my assumption, as power at that contact should be what powers the brakes, and the brakes would be always on.
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98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
Jersey mike
Member
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Posts: 10293

Brick,NJ


« Reply #9 on: February 20, 2020, 02:26:56 PM »

Thanks everyone, I appreciate the time to help and your expertise.

Be safe out there.
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Challenger
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« Reply #10 on: February 20, 2020, 03:13:24 PM »

https://www.etrailer.com/faq-fbc.aspx
This might help !
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MarkT
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VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"

Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km


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« Reply #11 on: February 21, 2020, 06:52:41 AM »

With my brakes, power from the brake controller is what activates them, and there's more power when you brake harder. Also that's tunable on a control dial.  Activated by the brake lights.  Not always on.  I don't know w/o more reading or testing, if it varies the voltage but I'd guess that's it.  It's been several years since I installed it.
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Vietnam-474 TFW Takhli 9-12/72 Linebckr II;307 SBW U-Tapao 05/73-4
vanagon40
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Greenwood, IN


« Reply #12 on: February 21, 2020, 09:36:11 AM »

With my brakes, power from the brake controller is what activates them, and there's more power when you brake harder. Also that's tunable on a control dial.  Activated by the brake lights.  Not always on.  I don't know w/o more reading or testing, if it varies the voltage but I'd guess that's it.  It's been several years since I installed it.

That's it. You need a controller. I installed the Tekonsha 90195 P3 Electronic Brake Control in 2018 on my 2015 Chevrolet Express Van. Found a pigtail under the carpet or the dash on the driver's side. It was a four wires: +12v, ground, brake light, and out to trailer plug. As suggested above, search the net (especially youtube) for the location of the pigtail for your vehicle. Hooked up the four wires to the controller plug, programmed the controller, and good to go.

Tekonsha 90195 P3 Manual
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RudyF6
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Chelsea, Michigan


« Reply #13 on: February 25, 2020, 08:10:09 AM »

On your Ford, since it has the 7-way, you should have a brake control pigtail kit that came with it. It will have the harness, a relay and a fuse. On my 2004 F-series, the mating plug is on the rh side of the steering column bracketry. Not sure on E-series. If you don't have the kit, you can probably get it from a Ford dealer if still available, if not I'm sure the controller mfg. can supply it.
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