Making the tire switch

[Rdaugherty]

So finally  broke down and  switching out oem dunlops.i have settled on rd 5 gt and rd 5 trail 120/70/19. I'm little  hesitant  to do this cause the smaller size but I've been reading its OK.  What can I expect  from the new shoes ? How hard is it to remove front wheel what torq bit do I need ?

[hubcapsc]

The smaller tire will feel fine.

torq bit? Getting the front wheel off is pretty normal. The rear
comes off like a car because of the single sided swingarm, but
I had some difficulty figuring out how to jack the 1800 up to
remove the rear. I ended up copying a wooden jack adapter
another poster posted, that made it easy...

-Mike

[Robert]

Tires will be fine I have ridden about 40k miles on them without a hitch and if you do a search on tires you will see many reviews of them.

As for Torx you will need none, and "DO NOT" remove any Torx screws as these are for the caliper halves and have noting to do with changing the tire.

You only need hex bits to remove the tires and you will need a 17mm, 6mm, and for wrenches a 12mm, 22mm. This will do the front, the rear is a simple tire change with lugs.  

The ones for the pinch bolts which I think are 6mm, the axle at 17mm.

You can expect your bike to feel like it runs on rails and one more thing the bike is a pia to jack up. The rear tire can be changed by jacking under the rear shock mount with the bike on the side stand and slipping the tire out. Its a bit tricky but works the front is another issue.

[Rdaugherty]

Robert that whst I mean the hex . Watched a video on it they take the calipers off of mount. Is that needed or can I just slip the b wheel out ?

[Robert]

Robert that whst I mean the hex . Watched a video on it they take the calipers off of mount. Is that needed or can I just slip the b wheel out ?

You can slip it out, Ive done it before the problem comes in when you want to put the wheel back. You will wind up fighting the rotors going in between the brake pads. So your holding the wheel trying to put it back playing with the brake pads, the wheel is getting heavy, you get the idea. 

Four bolts removed and the calipers fall down and the wheel just fits in so easily. You can try not removing them, but I dont recommend it. Another point when you take off the calipers wrap them in a rag so they will not scratch the bike and do not hit the brake. 

Dont know your level of expertise so please excuse if I have given to much info.

It also gives you the time and you can make sure the axle goes in like it should, the wheel is centered and turns freely.

Just a couple of other things to think about, try NOT to push the pads all the way back into the caliper as the brake fluid may come out of the master and go all over the bike. Just leave the pads alone till your ready to put the calipers back on and slip the rotor in the pads and push in gently. Dont over tighten the caliper bolts either. Some use locktite to secure the bolts I dont recommend it, I usually use a good grease like Bel Ray and never have had a problem. I have seen to many bolts not come out, break or strip with locktite, but you have to use what you feel comfortable with.

[Crabballs]

You can slip it out, Ive done it before the problem comes in when you want to put the wheel back. You will wind up fighting the rotors going in between the brake pads. So your holding the wheel trying to put it back playing with the brake pads, the wheel is getting heavy, you get the idea. 

Front wheel is easy.  All you have to do is take one caliper off and slide in a wooden shim to compress the pistons back to the bottom.  Leave the shim in there and slide the wheel out and shim the stationary caliper the same way. The shims will also protect your calipers from accidental movement if the brakes were accidentally used.  Remove shims and effortlessly slide wheel back in place.  Doesn't get any easier.

[ledany]

IMHO, I think there's absolutely no reason to loctite the caliper bolts, on the contrary. I've been scolded once by a mechanics asking if I had put grease on the bolts. Ever since, I clean them carefully and grease the bolts - copper grease, nothing's too good for my scooter 

[Robert]

You can slip it out, Ive done it before the problem comes in when you want to put the wheel back. You will wind up fighting the rotors going in between the brake pads. So your holding the wheel trying to put it back playing with the brake pads, the wheel is getting heavy, you get the idea. 

 All you have to do is take one caliper off and slide in a wooden shim to compress the pistons back to the bottom. 

You can do this and normally you would be correct, the problem is when you do this,( push the pistons all the way back into the caliper) all the fluid goes back into the master, and if it was topped up may overflow. This could possibly put brake fluid on spots that there shouldn't be any not only making a mess but possibly ruining the paint.

For someone not used to doing brakes this can be a nasty experience.

[Crabballs]

You can slip it out, Ive done it before the problem comes in when you want to put the wheel back. You will wind up fighting the rotors going in between the brake pads. So your holding the wheel trying to put it back playing with the brake pads, the wheel is getting heavy, you get the idea. 

 All you have to do is take one caliper off and slide in a wooden shim to compress the pistons back to the bottom. 

You can do this and normally you would be correct, the problem is when you do this,( push the pistons all the way back into the caliper) all the fluid goes back into the master, and if it was topped up may overflow. This could possibly put brake fluid on spots that there shouldn't be any not only making a mess but possibly ruining the paint.

For someone not used to doing brakes this can be a nasty experience.

I agree with you, but........  If you have to add fluid or top off a brake reservoir you have other issues such as severe brake wear, spongy brake hoses, or a leak.  One should never top off brake fluid without investigating those three items.  If you have brake and/or rotor wear the fluid will be back to proper level once corrected.

That said, I agree, if you aren't used to doing your own brake work or buy a used bike or have someone else work on it one needs to monitor fluid level while compressing the pistons.  That's why I won't let anyone else work on my bikes or cars if at all possible.

[Robert]

  That's why I won't let anyone else work on my bikes or cars if at all possible.

Thats exactly why I started to do all my own work. I didn't like the quality of work that some shops would do and the prices and down time also played a part.

My friend wanted to buy a bike he was set on a Harley and I talked him into a VTX1800 with saddle bags, windshield, leg guards and the bags had rear lights in them. So when he got the brand new bike from the dealer, they fouled up on a few things. Like oil level was low, the wiring for the rear lights was wound up inside the rear fender about 8 feet of it and the connections were garbage and they were wired wrong. The lights did not work properly on top of that the preinspection was not done and the oil level was low.

I was upset since I knew the service mgr and I had some problems in the past. You would think that after knowing me and I bought a bike there, switching a friend to buy a bike there and selling him on a few necessary options they would take care of him. NOPE didnt happen.