Timing Belt - Tension

[jnicks01]

I have been putting off the timing belt replacement till last on my post purchase maintenance list.  Honestly, it somewhat intimidates me, but it is time to knock it off my list.  Only 36k miles, but I want the piece of mind as they are cheap.  I'll check the pulleys, etc. while in there.  Can't be more involved than the splines, which were not a hard task to service for me.

Question is to set the tension, is a tool really needed to achieve the 4.4lbs of pressure?  Or do you guys just go by "feel"?  Other tricks?

[Chrisj CMA]

I have been putting off the timing belt replacement till last on my post purchase maintenance list.  Honestly, it somewhat intimidates me, but it is time to knock it off my list.  Only 36k miles, but I want the piece of mind as they are cheap.  I'll check the pulleys, etc. while in there.  Can't be more involved than the splines, which were not a hard task to service for me.

Question is to set the tension, is a tool really needed to achieve the 4.4lbs of pressure?  Or do you guys just go by "feel"?  Other tricks?

The springs are there to set the tension. Make sure the bolts to the tensioners are just tight enough to allow easy movement but no wobble in the mounting plate. Push on the tensioners a few times and see that the springs are doing their thing and that should be good to go.

[jnicks01]

Thanks ChrisJ,

I did see that somewhere too on this forum.  Seems easy enough...

[old2soon]

          Also Make cursed SURE the static timing marks are Aligned PROPERLY. These Are interference engines. Before buttoning everything up and with plugs Out and all torques set turn the engine thru a couple times with a socket setup on the center bolt-crank shat bolt. I took my time and reread the instructions several times Before tear down. I have a Honda Valkyrie manual and a Clymer Valkyrie manual. Belt replacement is also covered in some posts here and there is a picture segment somewhere that is also loaded with good info on belt replacement. The entire procedure is Actually pretty straight forward. And there Is a wealth of people here who have been there done that got the T-shirt!   RIDE SAFE.

[steve1433]

A good universal guide with ANY cam belt for tension has always been to be able to turn the belt at the middle of the longest point between the pulleys 90 degrees.....by using your fingers only.

[-mike-]

↑ This.

[jnicks01]

Old2soon.  I think I have read both roughly 50 times.  No exaggeration.  And you are correct, many other great tips on here that I've bookmarked. 

Steve.  That is a great tip too!  I've never heard that, but I'll add it to my list of tasks! 

Everything else I've done hasn't blown up yet, so hopefully i'm doing something right. 

[Ricky-D]

Whenever I hear this word TENSION in conjunction with the timing belts, I cringe.

Those springs are engineered to correctly adjust the timing belts.

All they effectively do is to remove any loose slack,

that is all they are intended to do.

If, in attempting to adjust the tensioner pulleys, in your zeal, you help the springs a little,

The tensioner pulleys in no time will fail.

Honda doesn't even put a life expectancy on the belts.

All Honda says is to inspect them.

The timing belts are probably the least stressed items on the whole bike.

Proceed accordingly.

[mello dude]

Is there a good video on the belt change? I just pulled the cover off for look see. Can't be that hard, but I want to make sure I understand everything before I decide to go ahead. I know timing is everything.

As a btw... I am a automotive engineer by training, and looking at the large gear pulleys on the ends are a stamping part.
Very impressive to design and produce those parts.

 

[gordonv]

It's been a while since I've looked over the items.

I found something nice in the GW GL1500, I don't recall in the Valkyrie. Remove the spark plugs. This way you aren't fighting the compression trying to turn the motor.

When done, just remember that all important turning the engine over by hand a few 720' to get all those cycles, and insure there is no interference, before even attempting to start the engine.

Someone mentioned that even 1 tooth off can be a few degrees, so again, make it right.

GW, remember, only the mechanical side is the same, no plastic.
https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=9774

[Robert]

If there is a noticable buzz when done then the belt may be to tight, but a very slight buzz is ok.
It should go away in a few rides and settle down to no noise.

[mello dude]

Geez, the OEM belts are 70 dollars each, plus other parts and this gets spendy fast.
What are alternative sources to save a few bucks?

[6adan]

Gates T275 is one.

[Ricky-D]

If there is a noticable buzz when done then the belt may be to tight, but a very slight buzz is ok.
It should go away in a few rides and settle down to no noise.

There should be no sound whatsoever from the running belt(s)

If you have sound, something is not correct.

***

[gordonv]

On Shoptalk, the generic parts page.
http://www.jkozloski.com/generic_parts.htm

I bought a set of Gates for $45 for the pair. Others have claimed $16 ea, I think on Amazon.

Gates is the supplier (manufacturer?) for almost all belts. Why pay a dealer double for the same item.

[mello dude]

On Shoptalk, the generic parts page.
http://www.jkozloski.com/generic_parts.htm

I bought a set of Gates for $45 for the pair. Others have claimed $16 ea, I think on Amazon.

Gates is the supplier (manufacturer?) for almost all belts. Why pay a dealer double or the same item.

Soooo.... is this the correct belt? Sry about the link....


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CRDMS8/ref=sm_n_ma_dka_US_pr_ran?adId=B000CRDMS8&creativeASIN=B000CRDMS8&linkId=e9d9066ed5d5c94495516d6edbbb87b2&tag=goldwingdocs-20&linkCode=w58&ref-refURL=https%3A%2F%2Fgoldwingdocs.com%2Fforum%2Fviewtopic.php&slotNum=1&imprToken=71W.39l0BC0EE1sQ3P5fKQ&adType=smart&adMode=manual&adFormat=card&impressionTimestamp=1591591241670

Made in China....  

[jnicks01]

that is the correct one.  you need 2

[Chrisj CMA]

On Shoptalk, the generic parts page.
http://www.jkozloski.com/generic_parts.htm

I bought a set of Gates for $45 for the pair. Others have claimed $16 ea, I think on Amazon.

Gates is the supplier (manufacturer?) for almost all belts. Why pay a dealer double or the same item.

Soooo.... is this the correct belt? Sry about the link....


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CRDMS8/ref=sm_n_ma_dka_US_pr_ran?adId=B000CRDMS8&creativeASIN=B000CRDMS8&linkId=e9d9066ed5d5c94495516d6edbbb87b2&tag=goldwingdocs-20&linkCode=w58&ref-refURL=https%3A%2F%2Fgoldwingdocs.com%2Fforum%2Fviewtopic.php&slotNum=1&imprToken=71W.39l0BC0EE1sQ3P5fKQ&adType=smart&adMode=manual&adFormat=card&impressionTimestamp=1591591241670

Made in China....  

When I bought Gates I remember them being made in Germany. I would not buy Chinese belts

[indybobm]

Is there a Gates company in China or are these rip-offs

[mello dude]

Is there a Gates company in China or are these rip-offs

Gates is an international company, chances are they have  manufacturing plants in Germany, England, US and China.

[baird4444]

Timing Belts
Gates # 275
Napa # 250275
Goodyear - #40275

[Chrisj CMA]

Ok, a follow up observation FWIW.

I have recently replaced my timing belts for the second and most certainly the last time. First time was at 80,000 miles and due to the fact my bike is a ‘97. The first belt change I used Gates belts bought locally for like $20 each. They fit great and still looked new new when I replaced them replaced them at 170K.

So, you ask, why did I replace them?  Well that’s a good question. I almost didn’t lol. But, I wanted to replace the tensioners and springs. The last time I was in there to seal the one bolt that leaks I wasn’t happy with one of the tensioners, it did turn real smooth. And because a while back I scored a killer deal on new OE tensioners and Honda belts from a member here, I thought, what the heck these will last longer than I will so I changed them.

Ok, now the reason I’m m posting. The Honda belts seemed to go on a bit harder. They were tight. The new springs didn’t even seem like they could even do anything. Before I tightened the mounting bolts I pressed the tensioners away from the belts (increasing slack). And just let them with their springs decide where they wanted to be. I did that two or three times trying to get a bit more  slack in them but I had to just torque them as they were and see what happens.

So after hand turning and triple checking my marks I fired up the engine and all was well. Fast forward to today.  I decided after a couple thousand miles to open it up and see how everyone was doing.  To my delight the belts seem to have relaxed just enough. Perfect slack, and I did that test twisting them 90 degrees. All was great.

So. If you are replacing with Honda belts it might be good to know  

[jnicks01]

I have been putting off the timing belt replacement till last on my post purchase maintenance list.  Honestly, it somewhat intimidates me, but it is time to knock it off my list.  Only 36k miles, but I want the piece of mind as they are cheap.  I'll check the pulleys, etc. while in there.  Can't be more involved than the splines, which were not a hard task to service for me.

Question is to set the tension, is a tool really needed to achieve the 4.4lbs of pressure?  Or do you guys just go by "feel"?  Other tricks?

Follow up.  So that was easy.  Took my time and followed a few manuals during the process.  No PO has been in there as the pink-ish thread locker was still in tact.  Belts looked good as did the pulleys.  Only 36K on the clock anyways.  New belts and set the tension by allowing the springs to set it.  Checked marks about 20 times.  All good. 

To others worried about this project.  Don't be.

[indybobm]

The Honda belts seemed to go on a bit harder. They were tight.

Do you think that the belts were stiffer because of the way they were made or because they could have been in the supply system longer?

[Chrisj CMA]

Dunno. They seemed a few microns shorter

[mello dude]

I have been putting off the timing belt replacement till last on my post purchase maintenance list.  Honestly, it somewhat intimidates me, but it is time to knock it off my list.  Only 36k miles, but I want the piece of mind as they are cheap.  I'll check the pulleys, etc. while in there.  Can't be more involved than the splines, which were not a hard task to service for me.

Question is to set the tension, is a tool really needed to achieve the 4.4lbs of pressure?  Or do you guys just go by "feel"?  Other tricks?

Follow up.  So that was easy.  Took my time and followed a few manuals during the process.  No PO has been in there as the pink-ish thread locker was still in tact.  Belts looked good as did the pulleys.  Only 36K on the clock anyways.  New belts and set the tension by allowing the springs to set it.  Checked marks about 20 times.  All good. 

To others worried about this project.  Don't be.

Where did you get your belts?

[jnicks01]

I don't recall exactly, but it was probably amazon or summit racing.  I bought them quite a few months back when I was getting all my fluids and other parts.  Just Gates belts.  Nothing special.