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Author Topic: 1997 Valkyrie Tour Specs  (Read 1856 times)
agrady1995
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Posts: 124


« on: July 13, 2020, 11:54:26 AM »

Hello! I have a 1999 Valkyrie Interstate and just bought another 1997 Valkyrie Tour. It was (the Tour) sitting in a pole barn, barely run for 5 years. 27k miles.

I am looking for the specific bearing and seal information, so that I can order them through NAPA, Advanced auto, or O'Rileys. I have 13 year old tires that I rode it home on when I bought it, and that is a story in and of itself, if anyone wants to hear...

Anyway, I am getting tires put on Wednesday, so getting the correct specs would really help, I am hoping to go pick up the bearings and seals wherever they are immediately available. The shop I get bike work done at is closed until Tuesday.


Thanks all for help.

Andy
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Jess from VA
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Posts: 30393


No VA


« Reply #1 on: July 13, 2020, 12:12:03 PM »

This is the OE 97 Tourer parts fish.  Learn to use it.  Sometimes, parts that you think should be in one section, are in another section.  

Go to 1997, then to Valk Tourer
https://www.procaliber.com/oem-parts?aribrand=HOM&arian=MOTORCYCLE

Happy hunting.

Note that a majority of Valkyrie parts of all years and models are the same.  However the 97s and 98s have some parts that were unique to those years.  And some early 97-9 parts were later discontinued in favor of properly fitting later year model parts (and the parts numbers changed).  
« Last Edit: July 13, 2020, 04:11:36 PM by Jess from VA » Logged
Ken aka Oil Burner
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Mendon, MA


WWW
« Reply #2 on: July 13, 2020, 12:20:09 PM »

Here's a page that's in the Shoptalk section: http://www.jkozloski.com/generic_parts.htm

It has some nice info about alternate part numbers and generic parts store listings for many of the service parts on the Valk.
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16768


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #3 on: July 13, 2020, 02:13:04 PM »


When I got my 97 I replaced the wheel bearings (I didn't need
to, but I didn't know any better). I took the bearings out, took
them to the little man at the bearing store, he looked up the
numbers on them and handed back brand new bearings that
were correct.

-Mike
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agrady1995
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Posts: 124


« Reply #4 on: July 13, 2020, 06:20:17 PM »


When I got my 97 I replaced the wheel bearings (I didn't need
to, but I didn't know any better). I took the bearings out, took
them to the little man at the bearing store, he looked up the
numbers on them and handed back brand new bearings that
were correct.

-Mike

Mike, I am taking it that maybe I don't need to replace the bearings/seals, even if it's been basically sitting for 20 years?

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what to look for/change in my new toy?
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16768


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #5 on: July 13, 2020, 06:51:47 PM »


Mike, I am taking it that maybe I don't need to replace the bearings/seals

I think (which doesn't make it so) that bearings probably should only be
changed when it seems like there's a problem with them. There's probably
a bunch of stuff you should look at if your new bike sat in a shed for five years...
petcock, tires, all the fluids, are the brake pads good? Caliper pistons nice and
clean, or crusty? Is the gas tank clean inside? My 97 was pretty tired when I
got it in 2006, but the tins were good and it runs good... I've had fun making
the whole thing pretty good since then  cooldude ...



-Mike
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #6 on: July 13, 2020, 06:52:26 PM »

All fluids, brake, clutch, coolant, oil & filter.

Drain the drool tube (underneath, one tube is plugged)

It seems likely the carbs are gummed up.  But start with big doses of Berryman's B12, and run it easy (low rpm) to clean slow jets.  Non ethanol polluted gas if possible.  Tighten up all the intake runners (they're probably loose).

Make sure the vacuum petcock is working and not leaking (or replace the coverset)   https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/16953-MBZ-B51   Turn it off every time.

Pull the tank and change the air filter.  Do not bugger up the petcock hookup.

Get under the sideovers and clean up the crud under there (the fuzzy brush vacuum attachment is good).  Learn to pull them out at the back, and pivot them forward and unclip the front hooks (don't break the tabs off).

No reason to replace wheel bearings if they are not failed.  Ask the shop doing your tires to check the bearings for good function.

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