Non-MC tech question regarding parking brakes

[Gryphon Rider]

I am replacing the parking brake cables on my 2002 Dakota with used cables and release springs from the wrecker.  The right rear drum brake tends to stay engaged after releasing the parking brake, and when I release the parking brake, I have to use my toe to lift the PB pedal the final inch to turn off the brake warning light.

My question is, what should I lube the cables with to prevent this from happening again?  I'm thinking white grease from a spray can, or perhaps silicone spray.  Any other/better ideas?

[Rams]

I am replacing the parking brake cables on my 2002 Dakota with used cables and release springs from the wrecker.  The right rear drum brake tends to stay engaged after releasing the parking brake, and when I release the parking brake, I have to use my toe to lift the PB pedal the final inch to turn off the brake warning light.

My question is, what should I lube the cables with to prevent this from happening again?  I'm thinking white grease from a spray can, or perhaps silicone spray.  Any other/better ideas?

Your fix will require constant maintenance.   Once this starts occurring, there's corrosion somewhere causing the binding.   But, if that's what you want to do (instead of buying a new parts) I suggest PB Blaster frequently and abundantly used.   Please avoid getting any lubricant on the brake shoes.   It's really not a good idea to grease brake shoes.   I'm not the brightest bulb in the chandelier but, I'm still lit.  

Rams

[Robert]

There are parts you just don't get used and parking brake cables is one of them and the reason is exactly what you found out. Cables tend to go and the used replacement will still have the same problem to a lesser extent.

Rust will continue to eat internally at the cable and swelling the metal to bind on the cable. Sometimes these cables have an internal sleeve that acts as a permanent lubricant to keep the cables working smoothly. If the cables are already binding then this is already broken or gone and the internal structure along with possibly the external water proofing and cable support is already compromised.  

I urge you to do the job again with new cables and you did not say which of the possible 4 cables in your system you replaced. Take them apart and one by one move them and see if they move freely. if not replace that one cable with new. They are not expensive with the total cost of the cables around 100.00 dollars US maybe less.  

But if not, use some synthetic motor oil put in with compressed air to lube the full length of the cable may buy you some time.

The other issue is you may not have the rear brakes adjusted properly. From the sound of the pedal not returning this could also be the case. There does have to be a slight drag on the brake drum while rotating and once you have the whole thing back together take the thing out for a spin after the initial adjustment and then readjust them. I think this sounds more your problem than the cable right now.

Push down hard on the brakes and then on the emergency brake if the emergency brake goes to the floor or very low on full engagement then you may have an adjustment issue. The correct adjustment on the brake can help the foot pedal return to its normal position.

They also make a parking brake tensioner which is nothing more than a clamp to take slack out of the cables. Another thought on these systems you can put a fairly heavy return spring on the first leg of the brake cable to pull on it also.

[cookiedough]

drum brake tension in the rear for parking brake can be adjusted.  Watch some youtube videos on how to do it.  If still the parking brake does not release fully, replace parking brake cable is other option.  a slight drag is standard as others said but not much on rear drum brakes spinning it freely by hand.

[cookiedough]

at least you have brakes,   I blew a seal/line or something on my dads old 1986 caprice classic since I went to release the parking brake with lower left foot, brake light went on in dash ASAP and NO brake pressure now so NO brakes at all spongy no pressure.   

[Gryphon Rider]

When I found that the local auto parts stores didn't have the right rear cable in stock, I decided to grab one at the auto wrecker.  After looking under my truck, I saw that the the front cable from the pedal was in rough shape, so I figured I would grab all the cables at once from the wrecker, and use whichever ones are in better shape than what I have.  The three cables from the wrecker that move within sleeves currently move smoothly and look in decent shape; I just want to keep it that way.  There is no concern about getting lubricant on brake shoes, as I would be lubricating them before installing them.

Before it dawned on me that it was a parking brake issue, I suspected a bad brake cylinder, and replaced them both, cleaning and lubricating everything that should be lubed, and replacing much of the hardware, including shoe return springs.  I kept my existing shoes and drums, which looked fine with lots of material.  At that time I adjusted the brakes so they were not quite dragging, then completed the adjustment with several reversing stops.

Having a standard transmission, I use the parking brake every time I park, which worked fine for the first 1-1/2 years of ownership.  It started acting up last winter.  I figure my truck did okay with the original cables for 300,000 km, so replacing them with second-hand cables should buy me another 50-100,000 km.

[Patrick]

I pull the boots and oil the cables. I make sure the cable works very freely and is nice and oily before installing them. If the cables are already installed and hard to get at then just spray them with an oil or penetrating oil, no grease.

[Gryphon Rider]

at least you have brakes,   I blew a seal/line or something on my dads old 1986 caprice classic since I went to release the parking brake with lower left foot, brake light went on in dash ASAP and NO brake pressure now so NO brakes at all spongy no pressure.   

If a seal is the problem, complete new cylinders and calipers are available and inexpensive, as are front hoses.  If it's a line, you might have to have one made as brake lines for a 34-year-old car are unlikely to be stocked.

[Patrick]

at least you have brakes,   I blew a seal/line or something on my dads old 1986 caprice classic since I went to release the parking brake with lower left foot, brake light went on in dash ASAP and NO brake pressure now so NO brakes at all spongy no pressure.   

So what was wrong ? Thats check of a failure. Dual master cylinders were required in 1966 so brakes should have worked on either front or rear. Must have been a multiple line failure.

[Robert]

I realize you were asking about lubricant but is the problem fixed?

[Gryphon Rider]

I realize you were asking about lubricant but is the problem fixed?

My M.O. is to research my questions in preparation for weekend puttering.  Nothing done yet.  I think I'll feel the force required to move the cable before doing anything, then run some brake cleaner through the cable sleeves while working the cable back and forth and spinning it, looking to see if what comes out the other end is clear or dirty, and keep spraying until it is clean.  I think I'm then going to try B'laster Advanced Dry Lube with Teflon after I've given the brake cleaner a chance to dry.  I don't want anything in there that will attract dirt.  Hopefully less force will be required to move the cable afterwards.

[Patrick]

' Hopefully less force will be required to move the cable afterwards. '



Thats the idea.

[Gryphon Rider]

I discovered that the bottom end of the cable that leads from the parking brake cable was in bad shape, and that, more importantly, the long cable that ends at the right rear wheel was completely seized, immovable by hand.  The cable adjuster was also rusted enough to not be adjustable.

I cleaned out the "new" (second-hand, from the auto wrecker) cables with brake cleaner, followed a day later with PTFE dry lube.  They worked fine before, but beautifully after cleaning and lubing.  To do this, I cut off the corner of a zip-lock bag, and tied it to the end of the cable's sheath with a twist-tie, turning it into a funnel to direct the cleaner or lube into the cable, while working the cable back and forth and spinning it with my fingers, until the fluid came out the other end.

I put the rusty adjuster into a plastic bag, filled it with Evapo-Rust until the adjuster was submerged, then put the bag into my water-filled electrostatic cleaner.  I ended up having to scrape out the screw threads with an awl, but eventually I got it clean and working well, lubed with copper anti-seize.

The parking brake works perfectly now, with no dragging.

[Patrick]

Good, glad its fixed and that you did it.

You have more patience than I have.