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Author Topic: Tachometer Problem on 2001 Standard  (Read 1003 times)
ryord
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Posts: 115



« on: August 21, 2020, 10:03:40 AM »

Hello I am having a problem with my tachometer on a 2001 Valkyrie standard, it is intermittent that will work for a while if I don't ride it for a while the next time I start it the tachometer won't work I have checked the junction in the light bucket, I have checked and replaced the ECM module, I have checked voltage coming off of the alternator which is correct have I missed something? This unit was replaced brand new about 6 or 7 years ago. I have not put the original unit back in it for testing because I suspect the problem is somewhere else in the wiring. The bike has around 26,000 miles on it never gets wet. help from the the collective would be appreciated thanks Rick
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16772


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #1 on: August 21, 2020, 11:28:02 AM »


Check to see if your tail-light (not brake light) works
when the tachometer is out...

There's a circuit with a green wire that runs all around
on the bike. My rear brake light was out because the
fuse in this circuit was blown. If I replaced the fuse it
would blow again. I realized that the tach went out too.
I forget what else is on this circuit. My problem was that
I mashed these two wires that go into the headlight bucket
in the windshield bracket and the wires finally rubbed through.

Your problem isn't the same as mine was, but it might help to chase
down the green wire through all its connections, maybe one is
loose or degraded somehow...



-Mike
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Gideon
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Posts: 462


Indianapolis, IN.


« Reply #2 on: August 21, 2020, 11:30:33 AM »

You may have an electrical problem with your ignition switch. The ignition controls three different circuits: IG1, IG2, and FAN.
I had a similar issue on my 2003 at 27,000 miles.
The trouble was with IG2 circuit. The IG2 controls the tachometer, taillights and head light. Rather than wait for several weeks for a new ignition switch, I ran a separate wire with a relay and a 30-amp fuse for the IG2. The local Honda dealer stated that a new switch could not be keyed for the gas tank or seat removal. I didn’t want two different keys. However, I have been told you can cut two different keys on one ignition key. One on each side.

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But they that wait upon the Lord shall renew their strength; they shall mount up with wings as eagles; they shall run and not be weary; they shall walk, and not faint.  Isaiah 40:31
ryord
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Posts: 115



« Reply #3 on: August 21, 2020, 03:27:49 PM »

I think you may be right I hadn't noticed that the rear running lights are not working ,could this be a short in the wiring or is it strictly having to do with the starter key module? Is this referenced in the manual ig2 circuit? Thanks appreciate the help
P.S. Headlight works fine as do front running lights.
« Last Edit: August 21, 2020, 03:29:41 PM by ryord » Logged
John Schmidt
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Posts: 15202


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #4 on: August 21, 2020, 06:19:44 PM »

Snip:....However, I have been told you can cut two different keys on one ignition key. One on each side.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Yes, it works....I've done it. I adapted a trunk off a GL1100 to my bike along with a cut down mounting rack. The trunk and mount came from two different bikes, hence two different keys. A visit to Ace Hardware with the two keys....one for the trunk and one for the release on the mount, they did exactly what you mentioned. One position the single key will release the trunk from the mount, turn it over and it unlocks the trunk lid. I used a file to cut a notch in one side of the key and a notch on the edge of the lock, makes it easier to ID which side to use.  cooldude
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