question about needles

[shadowmagic]

So the jet kit I ordered comes with needle "spacers." I believe that is to make it more rich, is that correct? So i'm thinking I wont install those since the jets are already going to make the mixture more rich. Or should I install the spacers and start with lower turns on the 6 air/fuel screws? Any help greatly appreciated.

[agrady1995]

Which set of carbs do you have (Model and Year)?

Did you already disassemble your carbs, and did you keep track of how far each screw was in each carb?

Did you do any other upgrades to your bike?

Did you use the known-to-be-good stuff from Red Eye or Honda?

[luftkoph]

You probably already know,but in case not,try not to make big changes all in one step,and only adjust or change one circuit at a time. Good luck enjoy toying with it and you can always go back to your starting point.

[shadowmagic]

I have a 97 1500c. The kit I ordered comes with 105s and 38s, along with spacers for the needles. All of the mixture screws were set at around 2.5 turns and I noticed some kind of build up on the springs. Like a white corrosion of some sort.

[sandy]

I have a 97 1500c. The kit I ordered comes with 105s and 38s, along with spacers for the needles. All of the mixture screws were set at around 2.5 turns and I noticed some kind of build up on the springs. Like a white corrosion of some sort.

The 38 jet is way too big. With the pilot screw out 1/8th of a turn, the exhaust is already too rich. This info comes from the most trusted mechanic on here. Pilot screws can be adjusted way off from the PO. I have a friend who was getting BAD MPGs so I looked at his carbs. ALL of his screws were at 3 turns and up. After setting all of them at 2 turns, his MPGs went from 27 to 32+.

[shadowmagic]

Ive gotten so much mixed advice and ultimately settled on the "every valk is different" philosophy. I did everything and followed every guide on this site to fix my backfiring issue and after finding multiple air leaks I figured that would take care of it, it didnt. I have some issues with my throttle response at the higher rpms and also the backfiring on deceleration. I believe after exhaustive research that I need bigger jets. I bought this motorcycle from someone who didnt know anything about it really, so in turn, I have no idea what has been done to this motorcycle.  I have figured out with the help of everyone from this site that it has been desmogged, I have progressive shocks, my rear fender was custom welded, etc. I will post my results after I install my jets and high flow air filter (possible an air box mod, I know I know lol) because as it stands my backfiring seems to be caused by a running lean condition. Worse case I have to yank the carbs again, it was easy to do so I'm not worried about it. I've read these valks can really be "woken up" with bigger jets and some carb tuning so time to see for myself, pray for me 

[Bagger John - #3785]

I've read these valks can really be "woken up" with bigger jets and some carb tuning so time to see for myself, pray for me 

Unless you increase the scavenging (exhaust) side of the equation, airbox and mixture changes aren't going to net you much at all.

[98valk]

Ive gotten so much mixed advice and ultimately settled on the "every valk is different" philosophy. I did everything and followed every guide on this site to fix my backfiring issue and after finding multiple air leaks I figured that would take care of it, it didnt. I have some issues with my throttle response at the higher rpms and also the backfiring on deceleration. I believe after exhaustive research that I need bigger jets. I bought this motorcycle from someone who didnt know anything about it really, so in turn, I have no idea what has been done to this motorcycle.  I have figured out with the help of everyone from this site that it has been desmogged, I have progressive shocks, my rear fender was custom welded, etc. I will post my results after I install my jets and high flow air filter (possible an air box mod, I know I know lol) because as it stands my backfiring seems to be caused by a running lean condition. Worse case I have to yank the carbs again, it was easy to do so I'm not worried about it. I've read these valks can really be "woken up" with bigger jets and some carb tuning so time to see for myself, pray for me 

I posted before, ALL Internal Combustion engines go lean when going off throttle, closed exhaust and/or muffler prevent one from hearing it. U have cobra pipes so u will hear it.  the leanness is the popping. Too lean out of tune the louder it will be and more often, it is not backfiring. backfiring happens during acceleration not when going off throttle, the causes would be major ignition problems, or spark plug wire installed on wrong plugs.
So yes putting bigger jets in making it richer will stop it and/or greatly reduce it. then all of that extra unused fuel will go past the rings, washing the oil off the cylinder walls thereby increasing wear and then the oil will need to be changed more often and at low miles due to fuel dilution.

The cobra jet kit for their pipes only provided for richer adjustable needles and slide springs. main jets where not provided.   https://cobrausa.com/site_media/uploads/pdf/products/92-1269.pdf

[Bighead]

I also stated I think a set of STOCK exhaust will fix your issue ie you wont hear the popping on decel as much.

[shadowmagic]

Isnt that what the air filter and carb syncing is for? to offset jets and dial it in so its in proper balance?

[98valk]

Isnt that what the air filter and carb syncing is for? to offset jets and dial it in so its in proper balance?

no.

syncing makes sure all of the throttle plates open the same as the base carb throttle plate which isn't adjustable. It does not affect jet sizes.
   The amount of air in and out determines jet sizes.  if u jet for 75F for max power then those jets are only good for 25F plus or minus the 75F.
only use the OEM filter. it flows more than enough air, I dyno'd 120 HP with the OEM filter. And they last longer than 12k miles. I tested a new OEM vs a 20+k oem filter. Air Flow was the same.
K&N lets in a ton of dirt.  see the spicer air filter test here.   https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html

[Bighead]

Not to offend but I think you are chasing a ghost. (A problem that isn’t) when on decel on my ‘97 bee I can hear a popping as in pressure. I have a stock exhaust a d it hasn’t changed in the 23 hrs I have had it. I have ridden valkyries with the cobra pipes and it was the same only way more noticeable because of them being pipes that are straight unti the small baffles. If the bike is running strong otherwise leave it alone and find yourself self  a set of STOCK pipes.

[98valk]

So the jet kit I ordered comes with needle "spacers." I believe that is to make it more rich, is that correct? So i'm thinking I wont install those since the jets are already going to make the mixture more rich. Or should I install the spacers and start with lower turns on the 6 air/fuel screws? Any help greatly appreciated.

"since the jets are already going to make the mixture more rich."

doesn't work that way.

MJ 3/4 to WOT
needle  1/4 - 3/4 throttle
PJ  idle to 1/4 throttle

all circuits overlap.

when their site gets back up read this  or search other sites for it.  www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,lower_rpm_engines.html

needles leaness to richer
OEM, Factory Pro, dynajet/cobra.

[shadowmagic]

I'm sure you are right about chasing a ghost lol I guess I'll find out next week. I'll keep you updated and I'll be sure to post pics when and if my hair catches fire lol

[Bigwolf]

Shadow magic
If you pull the carbs off and separate them, be sure to remove and test the air cut valves.  Those are there precisely to stop deceleration popping.  Their only function is to richen the fuel mixture when coming off the throttle.  5 of the six cut valves on my bike were bad at 25k miles.

Bigwolf

[shadowmagic]

ok, I'll check the manual. If anyone has any tips about testing those, please feel free to share 

[Bigwolf]

ok, I'll check the manual. If anyone has any tips about testing those, please feel free to share 

The Honda manual just says “check the Air Cutoff Valves”.  No further explanation.

If you bought the redeye carb rebuild kit, you probably have the best test procedure in that kit.
It goes something like this:
Use your mity vac to apply vacuum to the valve’s nipple.  Temporarily connect a short piece of tubing to the plastic nose of the Air Cut Valve and blow in it.  It will direct your breath back at you through the hole that holds the brass tube.  When you apply 14” to 15” Hg vacuum to the Air Cut Valve nipple, the valve should shut and deprive you of your breath.  If the Air Cut Valve is leaky, buy a new one.

[Madmike]

Not to offend but I think you are chasing a ghost.

Maybe you need to do what they do in Thailand for 'ghosts", put a little tray with some food, whiskey and incese sticks out on the curb in front of your place, it makes the ghosts friendly and they help you - primarily to drag customers in to your business...