Problem installing Electrical Connection LED Turn Signal Mod

[redgoldwing]

I'm following the Shop Talk article posted by Dave Ritsema:

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/ledturnsignalmod.htm

on installing this mod. One step in particular has me stumped: remove the two Phillips head screws holding the top and bottom halves of the turn signal housing together. This will aid in the routing of the wires.

The right-side screw (machine screw) comes out easy-peasy. The left-side screw turns but does not unscrew.

Anyone have any ideas why that screw won't unscrew?

I've tried just snaking the wires through but they bind up. If all else fails I guess I'll have to try pushing a rigid piece of wire through and then use that as a "pull string".

Thanks for any suggestions.

Bill

[RonW]

If this is what you're talking about, Screw 26 threads into a threaded brass insert molded in the top half of the signal assembly (16). Sounds like the brass insert is spinning in its bore. Try pulling up on the top half while turning Screw 26 on the bottom half to stop the brass insert from spinning. Or pry up on the top half until the brass insert pops out of its bore. Twist and jiggle if necessary.

[redgoldwing]

RonW, that's exactly what's happening. I can't see inside but your picture makes it clear what I can try to do. Thanks!

Bill

[gordonv]

I was wondering if this issue was the same as the inner fairing on an IS model. But I wasn't familiar with the part.

It looks like the brass insert screws, but is a lot more heavy duty than the fairing push in.

[redgoldwing]

RonW, problem solved, thanks for the great advice!

Bill

[Jims99]

I was wondering if this issue was the same as the inner fairing on an IS model. But I wasn't familiar with the part.

It looks like the brass insert screws, but is a lot more heavy duty than the fairing push in.

Not sure if same size,  but yes.

[RonW]

It looks like this. It's the plastic post for the brass insert that's the failure point.





The original problem was unscrewing the rear turnsignal assembly, but on installation, I suggest screwing the top half (16) to the bottom half (15),
only then bolting the assembly to the rear fender. This better aligns screw 26 with the threaded brass insert and avoids spinning out the brass insert
from the plastic post. You won't discover if you weakened the brass insert's embedment in the plastic post until later on when you unscrew the
top half from the bottom half and the brass insert spins with screw 26 etc.




The fender bolt (below) is housed in the bottom half (15). It seems more intuitive to bolt the bottom half to the fender then screw on the top half (16)
to the bottom half since the top half looks more like a hatch which gets attached last.





However after the bottom half (15) is bolted to the fender (graphic below), then you try to screw the top half (16) to the bottom half,
the top half gets hung up on the rubber gasket and you can't get the clamshell tight without any gaps, water infiltration so on. Tightening
down more on screw 26 to eliminate the gap only risks spinning the brass insert because screw 26 is pulling the misaligned top-half to the
max already. The top half is hung up on the rubber gasket preventing it to be drawn flush to the bottom half. Thus screw 26 can't
close the gap no matter how much you crank down on the screw.

I suppose this isn't a problem on all Valk rear signals, but the tightening sequence is safe practice. True, the screw might have seized up
in the brass insert turning the brass insert with it and breaking the brass insert from the plastic post, but that's just another culprit. At least
leave the fender bolt loose until finished screwing the top half to the bottom half. I used electrical tape to tape the clamshell together while
waiting for a replacement part. The plastic post was beyond repair. Just wrap the electrical tape next to the rubber stem and it'll blend in.





The top half (16) gets hung up on the rubber gasket at this part of the profile (next 2 pics).

[redgoldwing]

Wow RonW, thanks for the detailed explanation. I'll be sure to follow your recommendation when I re-assemble. FYI, my plastic post was not damaged in any way. For some reason that machine screw would not unscrew without it simultaneously turning the brass insert. I cleaned up the brass insert which had some plastic crumbs stuck to the bottom half and reinserted it into the post after dabbing some J-B Weld PlasticWeld onto the bottom half of the brass insert and then setting the entire assembly aside to allow it to cure.

Bill

[RonW]

Awesome, redgoldwing!     Heck, I had to take the long route.

[RonW]

I was trying to find a tool in my locker room today and came across my extra rear turn signal unit. As I stated yesterday, if the brass insert spins, you can electrical tape the clamshell together. If you tape it next to the rubber stem, it's barely noticeable (white arrow). That way the bike's rideable.