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Author Topic: Anyone have success cutting vents in their windshield?  (Read 3174 times)
CoreyP
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Bluffton, SC


« on: December 01, 2020, 09:13:19 PM »

My problem is this. I ride with no windshield on a standard most of the time but I can't go big miles without a windshield. To go out and do 300 or so miles in one shot on a highway is just too much for me without a shield.

I think I have a Memphis shades windshield and my problem there, is my head bounces all around to the point that the windshield sucks. My bike also came with air wings which once adjusted will stop my head from bouncing around. Problem there is in warm weather I seem to roast with the air wings and wind shield. Forget it at 95 degrees which is common where I am.

Wife wants to take a run to some friends in Orlando which is 360 miles or so of highway. I 95 to I 4 and that's about all of the trip. I need to figure out the best possible long highway ride solution. 

Option one. Cut down the windshield that I have to a smaller size? Most likely that will look like crap but maybe I can pull it off. Not sure if that will do anything for me?

Option two. Buy a new smaller windshield both lower and narrower that will keep my head from bouncing around without air wings. I don't like the look of air wings and a windshield in fact I don't like windshields.

Option three. Can you just cut some vents through the windshield which will give you body protection yet not bounce around your head? I've been on motorcycles for a long time but cruisers are pretty new to me and I simply don't know what to do here or should I say what is the coolest looking solution to my problem.  If I could I would go no windshield but I can't for 360 miles. Well I could but I won't enjoy it.

Anyone have an opinion on all this?
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John Schmidt
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De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #1 on: December 01, 2020, 09:44:57 PM »

Get one of the vents from a vendor(source names escape me at the moment), then using a template mark out where the cut will be to install it. Next cover that area with some good masking tape. I used to drill a couple holes as a starting point then use a jig saw or similar....and take your time. Cut a bit small, you can always remove more but can't replace it if cut too big. The vents can be closed when needed so you have the best of both worlds....blows on your chest and your head is still steady. One final suggestion; cut a piece of screen to bolt in place in the airway of the vent. Bugs and bees seem to find their way into and through the vent.
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #2 on: December 01, 2020, 11:08:59 PM »

Buffeting (head bouncing around) is so individual in nature on motorcycles, it's hard to make suggestions.  Many of us on bikes expect (even want) some wind, and others go to great lengths to block all wind with fairing, shield, fork wings, baker air wings, etc.  I can't remember people saying a vent in the shield stopped head buffeting.

I only wear DOT half helmets and I've always wondered if those big full face helmets catch more air (head buffeting) than mine do.  I dunno.

I do have experience working on standard bike windshields at tipping taller shields back enough on top (and usually pushing mounts forward on the bottom with home made extensions) to get a much better aerodynamic air flow.  This actually lends stability to the whole bike at freeway speeds.  And to me, it is pleasing when a windshield sits at the same angle as the forks, in a straight line.  But this can let more air in under the shield, around the headlight and over the tank.

I've never had problems with buffeting (5'9"); I have had problems with freezing my ass off, heavy rain and bugs.  I hate bugs, esp. ones that bite and sting and taste real bad with fuzzy, wiggling legs.  I ate enough bugs through the under-shield vents on my interstates, that I just plugged them both up with foam.  And remember, at night, all those bugs center up on your headlight(s), then funnel right through the vent.

And BTW for your trip, do not forget that most passengers on elevated rear seats get much more wind than the rider (and often don't like it).  Happy wife and all that.  
« Last Edit: December 01, 2020, 11:37:04 PM by Jess from VA » Logged
Valker
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« Reply #3 on: December 02, 2020, 02:16:30 AM »

I used a 3 1/4” hole saw and installed two of these in my stock Honda windshield. They are readily available. I got mine from Vetter, but they are available elsewhere.
https://www.ebay.com/i/272836900589?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28
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Jims99
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Ormond Beach Fl.


« Reply #4 on: December 02, 2020, 04:52:15 AM »

Good suggestions above. Be careful drilling the shield, it can crack. Anytime I drill into plastic I run the bit in reverse. It causes the bit to heat up more and melts through instead of trying to cut through. If using a jig saw, go slow and use a blade with lots of small teeth. Sometimes that will melt back together behind blade, just go back over it. Adding vent should help with buffing. Most of the wind that causes that comes up around headlight over top of tank. The fork mount deflectors seem to help also. Let us know what works for you.
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Ken aka Oil Burner
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« Reply #5 on: December 02, 2020, 06:18:21 AM »

I used a 3 1/4” hole saw and installed two of these in my stock Honda windshield. They are readily available. I got mine from Vetter, but they are available elsewhere.


Hey Valker. I watched the video on Vetter's website where it shows the way they install and open/close. Where on the Valk shield did you install them, and what's your overall thoughts on them? Better airflow in hot weather, reduced buffeting, or maybe even both? I think I like the idea of two vents vs. one center vent. I feel that most of the disturbed airflow comes up the sides behind the shield. Any pictures of your shield?
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luftkoph
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E U.P. Mich


« Reply #6 on: December 02, 2020, 06:53:17 AM »

Have you looked at MRA X-creen
or a laminar lip

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/mra-x-creen-tour-variable-windscreen-spoiler-blade


https://www.laminarlip.com/

I had a lip on a Buell that did good, blocking the wind causes turbulence, keeping  that blocked air laminar instead of turbulent will keep your noggin from bobbin
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Valker
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« Reply #7 on: December 02, 2020, 07:07:56 AM »

I used a 3 1/4” hole saw and installed two of these in my stock Honda windshield. They are readily available. I got mine from Vetter, but they are available elsewhere.


Hey Valker. I watched the video on Vetter's website where it shows the way they install and open/close. Where on the Valk shield did you install them, and what's your overall thoughts on them? Better airflow in hot weather, reduced buffeting, or maybe even both? I think I like the idea of two vents vs. one center vent. I feel that most of the disturbed airflow comes up the sides behind the shield. Any pictures of your shield?
I used two. I can’t add a pic here, but if you’ll text me at8066629144 I can send one. My shield was so opaque that I replaced it with a Clearview with vent last year, but I had better air and less buffeting with the vents for over 100K miles.
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98valk
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South Jersey


« Reply #8 on: December 02, 2020, 07:09:22 AM »

I use memphis hell cat during warm months. 50F and lower temps I use an oversize Rifle windshield. I position it so there no head buffeting. It also takes the major wind blast off the body, but still letting great airflow for cooling.
I bought separately their longer supports to make it work for me.

https://memphisshades.com/products/hell-cat-universal-handlebar-mount-windshield
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Mooskee
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Southport NC


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« Reply #9 on: December 02, 2020, 09:05:48 AM »

One option is to order a Clearview windshield made the height and width you want. They will also provide a vent like the Goldwing vent. I had one on a 2004 Goldwing. I was able to use the vent to control buffeting as well as pull in air as needed.

https://www.clearviewshields.com/
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Avanti
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Stoughton, Wisconsin


« Reply #10 on: December 02, 2020, 10:43:46 AM »

I have a 99 Interstate. I rotated the faring bottom forward which changes the angle of entry of the fairing. This requires a headlight realignment. I also design and built my own windscreen which is tilted rear word changing the angle of its entry. This changes the slipstream and helps lower the high pressure in front of the windscreen, thus helping keep the pressures more equal fore-and-aft of the windscreen. These changes are no doubt very personalized.
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #11 on: December 02, 2020, 12:26:04 PM »

Buffeting (head bouncing around) is so individual in nature on motorcycles, it's hard to make suggestions.  Many of us on bikes expect (even want) some wind, and others go to great lengths to block all wind with fairing, shield, fork wings, baker air wings, etc.  I can't remember people saying a vent in the shield stopped head buffeting.

I only wear DOT half helmets and I've always wondered if those big full face helmets catch more air (head buffeting) than mine do.  I dunno.

I do have experience working on standard bike windshields at tipping taller shields back enough on top (and usually pushing mounts forward on the bottom with home made extensions) to get a much better aerodynamic air flow.  This actually lends stability to the whole bike at freeway speeds.  And to me, it is pleasing when a windshield sits at the same angle as the forks, in a straight line.  But this can let more air in under the shield, around the headlight and over the tank.

I've never had problems with buffeting (5'9"); I have had problems with freezing my ass off, heavy rain and bugs.  I hate bugs, esp. ones that bite and sting and taste real bad with fuzzy, wiggling legs.  I ate enough bugs through the under-shield vents on my interstates, that I just plugged them both up with foam.  And remember, at night, all those bugs center up on your headlight(s), then funnel right through the vent.

And BTW for your trip, do not forget that most passengers on elevated rear seats get much more wind than the rider (and often don't like it).  Happy wife and all that.  

@Jess. I’ve had the half helmet and now full face. I’ve never been bothered by buffeting but if I had go say I think the full face catches less air. More aerodynamic if you will.
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #12 on: December 02, 2020, 01:10:44 PM »

I agree Jeff.  I was just trying to cover the different possible reasons for head buffeting.
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CoreyP
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Bluffton, SC


« Reply #13 on: December 02, 2020, 08:26:23 PM »

One option is to order a Clearview windshield made the height and width you want. They will also provide a vent like the Goldwing vent. I had one on a 2004 Goldwing. I was able to use the vent to control buffeting as well as pull in air as needed.

https://www.clearviewshields.com/

This is the way I may go but I want to try the cheap options first.

The windshield I have is overly big in my opinion. I'm not sure since this is the biggest bike I have ever owned and only my second cruiser. Not really sure what would work the best??? I've had sport bikes with tiny windshields that do work but you are in a tuck when you use those. Valkyrie is totally different from that world. I sure as H### wouldn't ride a sport bike 360 miles.

Basically if I screw up the windshield I have then I can buy a smaller one. Might as well experiment on the shield I have.
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gordonv
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Richmond BC


« Reply #14 on: December 02, 2020, 08:29:53 PM »

On a std/T I would look into realigning the windshield, change the tilt, before I cut.

Wings do this enough, I would check their site.
https://wingstuff.com/search?Search=windshield%20vent
and goldwingdoc for how-to.

I've a Dremel, with metal/plastic cutting wheels. When using anything, go slow. Apply tape to the area, both sides, draw it out, and use that. If you don't cut it horizontally and center, you'll most likely know, so measure twice.
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CoreyP
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Bluffton, SC


« Reply #15 on: December 02, 2020, 08:31:09 PM »

I have a 99 Interstate. I rotated the faring bottom forward which changes the angle of entry of the fairing. This requires a headlight realignment. I also design and built my own windscreen which is tilted rear word changing the angle of its entry. This changes the slipstream and helps lower the high pressure in front of the windscreen, thus helping keep the pressures more equal fore-and-aft of the windscreen. These changes are no doubt very personalized.

I spent a good part of an afternoon fooling around with windshield position and angle. Didn't help and in one position with the windshield angled more straight up it effected the stability of the bike. Then came playing around with the air wings which did work but the down side was it was very hot. Also I want a clean solution to this problem not just bolt on more stuff, if I wanted a Gold Wing I would have bought a Gold Wing.
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CoreyP
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Bluffton, SC


« Reply #16 on: December 02, 2020, 08:39:18 PM »


Wings do this enough, I would check their site.
https://wingstuff.com/search?Search=windshield%20vent
and goldwingdoc for how-to.



That may be worth a try.....My old shop teacher would have liked this project, he made us make a project out of plexiglass. This would be close to that. I made a tooth brush holder, not my best work.
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Mooskee
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Southport NC


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« Reply #17 on: December 03, 2020, 09:28:23 AM »

I cut a windshield down many years ago. If you take your time and use a rotary tool like a dremmel, and then sand the edge smooth, you will be fine. There are a number of Youtube videos. Here is one.

https://youtu.be/sCZjInmHWLk
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Avanti
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Stoughton, Wisconsin


« Reply #18 on: December 03, 2020, 09:59:56 AM »

The tuck position of a sport bike places your upper body in the bubble, low pressure area. That is one of the reasons for tilting the windscreen aft, it places you closer to the low pressure area.
Try leaning forward towards the windscreen and adjusting your head height with the helmet on that you use so you are looking over the windscreen and you will find the place where helmet and windscreen work as one. Than comes the compromising between siting comfort and turbulence and yes more upright destroys high speed stability.
« Last Edit: December 03, 2020, 10:02:19 AM by Avanti » Logged

98valk
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South Jersey


« Reply #19 on: December 03, 2020, 10:12:37 AM »

The tuck position of a sport bike places your upper body in the bubble, low pressure area. That is one of the reasons for tilting the windscreen aft, it places you closer to the low pressure area.
Try leaning forward towards the windscreen and adjusting your head height with the helmet on that you use so you are looking over the windscreen and you will find the place where helmet and windscreen work as one. Than comes the compromising between siting comfort and turbulence and yes more upright destroys high speed stability.

I do a tuck with my feet on the passenger pegs. actually it can be pretty comfortable.
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CoreyP
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Bluffton, SC


« Reply #20 on: December 03, 2020, 10:44:46 AM »

The tuck position of a sport bike places your upper body in the bubble, low pressure area. That is one of the reasons for tilting the windscreen aft, it places you closer to the low pressure area.
Try leaning forward towards the windscreen and adjusting your head height with the helmet on that you use so you are looking over the windscreen and you will find the place where helmet and windscreen work as one. Than comes the compromising between siting comfort and turbulence and yes more upright destroys high speed stability.

I do a tuck with my feet on the passenger pegs. actually it can be pretty comfortable.

LOL. I actually tried that and it works. I'm not going to lay on the gas tank riding a cruiser. I fooled around doing that as well on my experiment day. I took hours trying to figure out where the turbulence was etc. I for sure don't need as wide of a windshield as I have. and I'm thinking cutting an inch off the top would help but I not sure if that might just move the turbulent air forward?  That's when I had the vent idea.
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MarkT
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« Reply #21 on: December 03, 2020, 11:31:02 AM »

As others mentioned, tipping the shield has many benefits.  It's easy, just needs a couple pieces of metal strap with holes an inch apart on the Hondaline shield and also Rifle - don't know on other brands. It's reversible if you want to rollback the mod.  It lifts the headlight cutout so there's your vent feeding air into the vacuum.  It casts the gas filler reflection out of your sight.  It lowers the top so you look over it.  It increases streamlining so your bike gets less buffeting and better mileage & more speed & acceleration at highway speeds.  And it gets your head out of the turbulence even when you are looking over it.

I should add, I also have Baker wings on both of my daily riders, with this mod.  The uppers in closed position helps with the airflow.  I move the lowers open or closed with the season changes.

I wrote this up on my tech tips page about 20 years ago.  

http://horseapple.com/Valkyrie/Tech_Tips/Windshield_Tipping/windshield_tipping.html

I did a more extensive mod with my new favorite daily rider, Jade.  Raised the headlight with extenders under it, and changed both upper and lower windshield mounts so I could make the shield very configurable on road trips - height and angle.  I did it because I can with my metal shop.

BTW this is a Clearview shield which uses Hondaline hardware - and I ordered it with the vent.  Which has NO EFFECT on the airflow (I open & close it with no difference) as I already have the vent happening with the headlight cutout raised up.




Another, lower view -




These show the tipping mod as I applied it to Jade.  On the return from Taos Inzane I decided I wanted to raise the shield and tip it more.  With this setup I had that done in 10 minutes at a gas stop.

The new lower shield mount:




The new upper shield mount:




Note streamlined angle.  Jade also has 4° triple trees so the fork angle is steeper than OEM in this pic.

« Last Edit: December 03, 2020, 02:27:35 PM by MarkT » Logged


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Ken aka Oil Burner
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« Reply #22 on: December 03, 2020, 06:18:50 PM »

I know that most of my "rough" air has little to nothing to do with the shield. I have the Honda accy shield on my standard, which is the tourer shield without the word tourer on it. I did the lean-back mod by tweaking the lower brackets. I see over the top well. I know we're all different. Different heights, different seats, and even different bars or risers will position us in different ways behind the shield. I'm 6'4", so my experience will be different than someone who's 5'8". For me, I know that my "dirty air" comes from under the shield. When I put my feet up on the highway pegs, the blast gets directed even harder at me. I've been texting with Valker a bit about different setups and accessories. I had planned on adding Rifle fork-mounted lowers, but I have an air horn setup mounted on the right side crash bar. The fork leg comes close to it at full right lock now, so I know the lowers wouldn't cut it. Baker wings appear to mount right about where my horns are too, so I think the horns have to move if I want to address this. Honestly, mine's not too bad. The only time that annoys me is on the highway, and even then, it's not terrible. For me, I'll probably address the lowers before I cut up my shield. If I need more airflow in the summer after that, I'll probably add the Vetter poly vents.

Not trying to steer the thread off it's original track; just trying to add to it  Smiley
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CoreyP
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Bluffton, SC


« Reply #23 on: December 03, 2020, 09:02:42 PM »

I know that most of my "rough" air has little to nothing to do with the shield. I have the Honda accy shield on my standard, which is the tourer shield without the word tourer on it. I did the lean-back mod by tweaking the lower brackets. I see over the top well. I know we're all different. Different heights, different seats, and even different bars or risers will position us in different ways behind the shield. I'm 6'4", so my experience will be different than someone who's 5'8". For me, I know that my "dirty air" comes from under the shield. When I put my feet up on the highway pegs, the blast gets directed even harder at me. I've been texting with Valker a bit about different setups and accessories. I had planned on adding Rifle fork-mounted lowers, but I have an air horn setup mounted on the right side crash bar. The fork leg comes close to it at full right lock now, so I know the lowers wouldn't cut it. Baker wings appear to mount right about where my horns are too, so I think the horns have to move if I want to address this. Honestly, mine's not too bad. The only time that annoys me is on the highway, and even then, it's not terrible. For me, I'll probably address the lowers before I cut up my shield. If I need more airflow in the summer after that, I'll probably add the Vetter poly vents.

Not trying to steer the thread off it's original track; just trying to add to it  Smiley

Those Baker air wings which I have will solve the problem but they cause another problem. That is heat. My summers are hot, last week it was 80 here and the last thing I need is more heat pointed at me. When I was fooling around with the shield I ended up taking it off and just fool around with the air wings which just made things hotter. It is not uncommon for me to ride in 90+ heat for months at a time. During the cooler months the air wings might be useful to kept me warmer? I'll have to play around with them. 

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CoreyP
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Bluffton, SC


« Reply #24 on: December 03, 2020, 09:12:42 PM »

MarkT I think I will be trying that. Doesn't look hard to do and I can play around with it, might be the best solution.  If it doesn't work back to stock and go from there. I really didn't think about the room between the headlight and shield which would give me a vent basically. My windshield is very close to the top of the headlight, for that matter cutting some material out there would give me a vent. 

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Mikerthebiker
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« Reply #25 on: December 03, 2020, 11:42:27 PM »

I solved the head buffeting issue by adding upper fork deflectors, 2000 I/S. No heat problems as with Bakers.
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Valker
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« Reply #26 on: December 04, 2020, 04:15:10 AM »

Y’all mentioning the heat with Bakers do know the wings parts are adjustable, right? Most of my riding is in heat. I turn them in at the front to prevent cold, but mine are usually pointed straight ahead to let the air in. You can even turn the front of them out a bit to actually bring in extra air in the heat.
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h13man
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« Reply #27 on: December 05, 2020, 08:01:43 AM »

I run with a SlipStreamer 17" Classic and I do get a little buffeting above 65 mph. I made some custom lowers that helped a lot to cure this but again the heat factor is very present. Damn if you do damn if you don't. Takes 5 min. swap them out but the time cooler weather riding arrives I usually put on long john's and the FF helmet and carry on. Having the shield angled with the fork's, a height of the shield being at lip/nose height, the gap between the headlight and shield near zero, has worked the best for me. The combinations are endless for sure for each shield manufactures.
« Last Edit: December 14, 2020, 07:31:58 AM by h13man » Logged
CoreyP
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Bluffton, SC


« Reply #28 on: December 13, 2020, 11:16:58 PM »

Y’all mentioning the heat with Bakers do know the wings parts are adjustable, right? Most of my riding is in heat. I turn them in at the front to prevent cold, but mine are usually pointed straight ahead to let the air in. You can even turn the front of them out a bit to actually bring in extra air in the heat.

Oh ya, I have played with them. Like the shield I got to a point were bad things happen with the Bakers. I really spent hours running the shield at different angles then went to the air wings. Played around with those. There was a surprisingly different air flows with the bakers turned forward or backwards.

It's been fairly cold so another run is coming up with the air wings etc. We'll go back to what I said, I don't like riding with a windshield in the first place. It's bad enough I'm on a big bagger, I don't want to go full old guy tourer unless I'm riding for a long distance trip.,  In that case it is the way to go. Within a couple hundred miles, I'll leave the windshield at home. 
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