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GL15Brewer
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« on: January 01, 2021, 08:46:24 PM » |
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So due to a few life events my 1997 valk sat for about 2-3 years only being started a few times. I am reunited with the beauty and as to be expected the carbs where a bit gummy. I have the carbs of and apart and they don't look to bad. I had planned on buying a rebuild kit for the carbs but not sure if I need to. So here is where I need the input. I have the carbs off and don't really wanna take them out again soon, so should I just do the rebuild kit or clean it up and put it back together? Thanks as always for the input and help.
Cheers
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Timbo1
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« Reply #1 on: January 01, 2021, 09:37:55 PM » |
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So due to a few life events my 1997 valk sat for about 2-3 years only being started a few times. I am reunited with the beauty and as to be expected the carbs where a bit gummy. I have the carbs of and apart and they don't look to bad. I had planned on buying a rebuild kit for the carbs but not sure if I need to. So here is where I need the input. I have the carbs off and don't really wanna take them out again soon, so should I just do the rebuild kit or clean it up and put it back together? Thanks as always for the input and help.
Cheers
If it were me I'd buy a rebuild kit and rebuild them since you have them out already. If all the o-rings, seals & needle valve etc.. are original they're getting up in age. I like the All Balls rebuild kits as they included everything needed to rebuild the carbs including the fuel rail o-rings. I've seen some don't like them and recommend Redeye but I'm not sure what they didn't like about the All Balls kits. Either way I think you'd save yourself a lot of time and potential headaches to just do it now while they're out and not have to worry about it later on. |
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GL15Brewer
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« Reply #2 on: January 01, 2021, 09:51:14 PM » |
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Timbo1 that was my thought. I just wasn't sure if there was an indication for the replacement other than just being old. I have a bit of time before I need to get it back together, given the cold and snow here, so maybe I will just snag the parts. Never hurts right.
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Foozle
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« Reply #3 on: January 02, 2021, 05:22:40 AM » |
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01-02
I had a somewhat similar situation two years ago. I picked up a 1997 Tourer that had sat for a while - and would idle (poorly) only on the enrichment circuit. Convinced it was gummed up carbs, I pulled them and, to my surprise, found they were actually pretty clean.
Mostly for peace of mind, I went ahead and did the rebuild anyway - along with installing new slow jets (I've never had good luck thoroughly cleaning them) and float valves. Don't forget to replace the intake O-rings, also. As long as I do my part (ride it regularly), I figure this aspect of the bike is now good for as long as I'll own in.
Just be methodical and take your time.
Good luck!
Terry
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Jims99
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« Reply #4 on: January 02, 2021, 06:40:22 AM » |
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I bought an interstate that ran ok. I pulled carbs and they looked good so just did a cleaning. Ran a lot better, but still not like my tourer. Got the all balls kit, pulled them back apart and did a complete rebuild. She runs great. I also did a desmog and replaced all rubber lines and vacuum caps just to be safe. Much easier to do the first time. They’re a pain putting back on. Just take your time and check everything, easy but time consuming.
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The light at the end of the tunnel, is a train.
99 tourer
00 interstate
97 standard
91 wing
78 trail 70
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GL15Brewer
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« Reply #5 on: January 02, 2021, 09:02:39 AM » |
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Jims99 where did you buy the lines and plugs? I found lots of vacuum lines and fuel lines that were cracked. My carb drain lines are garbage. Is there a kit or did you just buy generic fuel line?
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Bighead
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« Reply #6 on: January 02, 2021, 09:06:37 AM » |
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Generis fuel line would be fine. But you must use the same length lines. Dont try to put a couple extra inches so it will be easier to put back together. That will cause problems.
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
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FLAVALK
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« Reply #7 on: January 02, 2021, 05:34:02 PM » |
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Generis fuel line would be fine. But you must use the same length lines. Dont try to put a couple extra inches so it will be easier to put back together. That will cause problems.
I’m curious why you say this will cause a problem. I just rebuilt my carbs but have not put them back in the bike yet. My intention is to use generic 3/8” fuel line. I was going to use approximately the same length hose on both sides of the fuel Tee. Never understood why Honda used a short hose on the right side and much longer hose for the left. I was then going to make the main hose from the petcock to the Tee about an inch longer to make it easier to attach to the petcock. |
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Live From Sunny Winter Springs Florida via Huntsville Alabama
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Willow
Administrator
Member
Posts: 16599
Excessive comfort breeds weakness. PttP
Olathe, KS
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« Reply #8 on: January 02, 2021, 06:07:01 PM » |
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... I was then going to make the main hose from the petcock to the Tee about an inch longer to make it easier to attach to the petcock.
This in particular has caused a bubble to develop in the line after it becomes warm and interrupts the flow resulting in fuel starvation. |
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bikerboy1951
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« Reply #9 on: January 03, 2021, 01:51:45 AM » |
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The shorter hose on the right side is for alignment with the petcock since the petcock is located on the right side of the tank.
Brad
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Jims99
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« Reply #10 on: January 03, 2021, 05:15:30 AM » |
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Jims99 where did you buy the lines and plugs? I found lots of vacuum lines and fuel lines that were cracked. My carb drain lines are garbage. Is there a kit or did you just buy generic fuel line?
I got most of them from redeye. The drain lines I just used stock vacuum lines from parts store, they don’t hold up to the heat as well, but won’t affect how the bike runs. It’s been over 12k miles so far with no problems. |
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Logged
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The light at the end of the tunnel, is a train.
99 tourer
00 interstate
97 standard
91 wing
78 trail 70
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jdp
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« Reply #11 on: January 07, 2021, 08:10:37 PM » |
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Spend the money and get a good quality overhaul kit, I can’t remember which kit I used but I bought 2 different kits and one came in hard plastic case and the bowl gaskets were in great shape and the other kit I had the bowl gaskets were all twisted up and bent (not good ) and do it all o rings and everything, I had to do mine twice because I didn’t put o rings on the tubes and they leaked
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cross
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« Reply #12 on: January 12, 2021, 11:44:08 AM » |
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So due to a few life events my 1997 valk sat for about 2-3 years only being started a few times. I am reunited with the beauty and as to be expected the carbs where a bit gummy. I have the carbs of and apart and they don't look to bad. I had planned on buying a rebuild kit for the carbs but not sure if I need to. So here is where I need the input. I have the carbs off and don't really wanna take them out again soon, so should I just do the rebuild kit or clean it up and put it back together? Thanks as always for the input and help.
Cheers
Most definitely separate them and change everything. I used redeye kit few times and can say that their quality is great. Get petcock rebuild kit from Honda as well. If you end up needing float valves, get Honda OEM ones as well. Stay away from cheap Ebay rebuild kits. Jets you will most likely not need and if you do, get them from Honda, original Keihin. Shimming needles 0.20mm is beneficial to these bikes as well. DO NOT spray carb cleaner and any other chemical on the carb diaphragms as they will destroy them Good luck and have fun cleaning them Sasha |
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