Repair or Replace (Non Motorcycle - Ford Explorer)

[carolinarider09]

I posted this on the "Explorer Talk Forum" three days ago.  I got 27 views but not a single response so, I thought I'd try here. 

I have a 1996 Explorer 2DR Sport Utility with sun roof, white, we purchased used from a local ford dealer in 1998. It is in service and, while it has issues, it is reasonably reliable. It starts, runs, goes through all the gears. However, at 200,000 miles I was thinking it might be time to do some real re-work.

Oh, I forgot to say the brakes, on occasion, make a funny sound. It sort of comes and goes and is not predictable. The rear brakes I believe.

I was considering taking it to a local mechanic and asking him to sort of give it a once over. Maybe rebuild the engine, transmission, service all the major items, rework the brakes, oh and work on the door closure mechanism, especially the rear door/lift.... Oh and I did have an issue with the right door which a local "mechanic" sort of fixed which will need to be redone (has a different key for that door alone, claimed he could not get the correct part to fix the door lock).

So the question is, keep it and do the work (don't know the price yet) or purchase a replacement (used similar but newer).

The newer vehicle would have many unknowns which would, maybe make it more or less reliable.

If I decide to keep it the next question is, how to find a local mechanic that might be able to do what I want and get a reliable outcome? 

[Rams]

Not knowing your vehicle (like you do) and not knowing what you might go to.   My experience with most used vehicles, you're buying someone else's problem they either got tired of addressing or, simply didn't want to or couldn't afford to fix it.    That's a general statement but true much of the time.

You really won't know what the new (to you) (I assume used) vehicle's problems are until it's got your name on the title.  Or, shortly there after.

Doing all that work to your vehicle must be justified.   Can't tell you what to do but, my philosophy is to drive them and fix what needs fixed to maintain reliability until it just ain't worth fixing.   Drove my last two Ram trucks to over 300K miles and only got a new one when the costs started becoming too much and not worth it.   Typically, I'll drive one at least 15 years,    Then, I bought a new one with a warranty.  I'm thinking this one will outlast me.  I hope.

Rams

[da prez]

Find a restoration shop and get an estimate. Then you can decide.  It is possible that Ford has crate engines for that vehicle. They are usually reasonably priced. A transmission from a quality rebuilding company in my opinion is a better bet. They usually build out the known problems.
 My 01 GMC will be rebuilt when it needs it. I keep up with the maintenance repairs.
 Even doing the interior updates is easy.

                  da prez

[semo97]

This what I did on a 1994 Silverado 4x4 with 162000 miles. Paint good original, interior good, engine good no oil leeks does not burn oil, rear end good, front differential good. AC does not work, I did not fix it when doing this work 4 years ago. Trany rebuilt with new radiator, new shocks, new stock exhaust manifolds, new cataletic converter, rest of the exhaust was done 2 years prior, new cv joint up front on one side, new front brake pads and shoes with new brake cylinders each wheel and new brake master cylinder. I did all the work but trany and radiator. That was at  158000 miles. All it needs now is a new windshield do not know if the crack will pass inspection. I am into it 3200. Good wheels two spares on stock rims. Can I sell it now for what I have in it, I doubt it. I did not us cheap parts. What you want to do will cost you a lot, Labor alone will be high and being that old I do not see it worth it. Pay a little more for certified used. It is hard to find those little old lady deals but those deals are like the little old ladies the seals are dried out and they leek.

[Jess from VA]

my philosophy is to drive them and fix what needs fixed to maintain reliability until it just ain't worth fixing.

As a non motor head, this has always been my philosophy.

My other philosophy is all cars/trucks are junk.  Some are just newer junk than others.  This philosophy helps me not get sentimentally attached to any of them.

Unless you really love that truck (for a full resto mod of the engine, trans, brakes, etc), I'd fix what I could easily do, live with the rest of it, and keep using it for as long as it will keep working (saving toward the replacement).

I've always been willing to pay hundreds for repairs (because I can't buy another vehicle like it for hundreds), but when it needs multiple thousands, I seriously think about using those thousands towards it's replacement.

All motor vehicles are subject to the point of diminishing returns.  Figuring out where that point is, is the tricky part.

The last car I used up completely, I donated to Purple Heart, and took two grand off my taxes.  The IRS didn't know the transmission was shot (for the 2d time).

Some guys (like my brother) like to push them over into the weeds of his acreage on the off chance he may use some parts off them, and he likes the junkyard look.  Amazingly, he just got his old 67 one ton Dodge pickup running again out of his weeds, but he is a serious motor head who can fix anything. Where I live, the authorities (and neighbors) take a dim view of junk yards in the neighborhood.    

[scooperhsd]

I buy a vehicle, and like Rams - I drive them "until the wheels fall off". I've done this ever since I bought my Ensign-mobile  - 1983 Ford Ranger, 7 foot bed, 2.8L V6 with 5 speed manual. That model year had 6-7 different carbs on it, and guess what - that was the major problem with it. replaced it with a 1990 Honda Civic Wagon, to go along with the 1988 Acura Integra (both of these were purchased new). The Integra is still running with a friend we gave it to when we came to KC (I'd guess around 280K -290K miles by now). The Honda crapped in 2003 (after we bought the 2000 VW New Beetle) when I over heated it and it locked up (with approx 290K miles on it). The Beetle is still running with 376K miles. I've probably spent as much keeping it running as I paid for it, but this includes $3300 replacing the 4 speed automatic with a 5 speed manual at 252K miles.

[carolinarider09]

Thanks for al the input. Its decisions, decisions, ect....

I have looked for a local restoration shop and, as you might expect, there are not that many in my area. 

There is the one place we take my wife's car for service that I will contact and see what they might do.

There is another small shop in the same area that claims to work on "older" vehicles, I have seen their shop but never stopped by.  Will do that also next week. 

For a starter, I think I will start with getting the things that are currently broken or seem in need of repair. 

[matt]

The shop i manage we have a 3 page report, goes thru all parts of vehicle. Check fluids, steering, suspension. Check coolant ph, brake fluid water content, look at other fluids to see condition. Also for a little more money compression check. See if they offer a comprehensive check. Don't be surprised if over 100.00 as one we do takes tech atleast 1.5 hours. Around here in New Hampshire a vehicle of that age we would go thru fame very well also

Matt

[Moonshot_1]

I would keep it, service it to keep it road worthy. Not sure why you would want to spend the money to rebuild the engine and tranny if it starts, runs, and goes through the gears.

I have a Dodge Ram. 2010. Got some issues and it would be nice to have a newer and fancier truck.
But aside from some rust and an odd sensor or two, runs like a champ. There is a weird ticking noise at start up but its been doing that for years now. Something to do with the exhaust.

Anyway, it is just going to age into a beater truck. As long as it is safe and road worthy there is no point in putting any money into it. I can treat it with reckless abandon and not care too much.

[Chrisj CMA]

I have a 98 Explorer as well. At 200k you have got your money’s worth. If all it needs us a brake job fine. In my opinion it’s not worth rebuilding the engine or tyranny. Get a new to you vehicle. You will probably get less than $2,000 for it but take it and put it towards the next one.

[Bret SD]

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. One of my best friends has Ford F-150 4WD he's driven for over 500,000 miles on the same motor and trans.. and it' still goin.

Fix what's broke that needs it and drive it is my advice, Explorers are notorious for trans issues.. save the cash for an eventual rebuild.  Test compression on the motor, it's easy to do, if you've done regular oil changes and tuning you can likely go for a looooong time on that motor.

[Beardo]

I have a 98 Explorer as well. At 200k you have got your money’s worth. If all it needs us a brake job fine. In my opinion it’s not worth rebuilding the engine or tyranny. Get a new to you vehicle. You will probably get less than $2,000 for it but take it and put it towards the next one.

This.

You could easily spend 10 grand doing all that and still have a $2000 vehicle. Sell it and buy a $12,000 vehicle that has lots of life left in it.

Or do the brakes and keep it running but the first time a $500+ job comes along, to the wrecker it goes. it will owe you nothing for all the miles you got out of it.

[Patrick]

You want to rebuild basically the whole drive train ?  As was said, you'll have a ton of money into a couple thousand dollar vehicle.

What makes you think the engine/transmitter need rebuilding ?  Have they been properly maintained ? Do they work as they should ?

I guess this a decision only you can make. I wouldn't put much into a 20 yr old every day use vehicle.

There isn't an independent repair shop in your area that you trust that could look at it ?

[carolinarider09]

I guess I was being a bit over the top about just simply doing an engine rebuilt and tranny rebuild just because. 

Both work and perform.  I have been having an issue with transmission fluid but there are no leaks under the vehicle so it might well be I did not check it properly. I am keeping an eye on that. 

Will address the rear brakes, because I think I can (I think I did it last time but don't remember). 

I am pretty sure the O2 sensors are gone (bad) but..........

It is used maybe one or twice a week for trips between 30 and 60 miles.  Not an everyday use vehicle.

Oh and I use it to tow one of the two trailers I have.  Not heave loads.

[phideux]

I guess I was being a bit over the top about just simply doing an engine rebuilt and tranny rebuild just because. 

Both work and perform.  I have been having an issue with transmission fluid but there are no leaks under the vehicle so it might well be I did not check it properly. I am keeping an eye on that. 

Will address the rear brakes, because I think I can (I think I did it last time but don't remember). 

I am pretty sure the O2 sensors are gone (bad) but..........

It is used maybe one or twice a week for trips between 30 and 60 miles.  Not an everyday use vehicle.

Oh and I use it to tow one of the two trailers I have.  Not heave loads.

I had an old Explorer like yours. I sold it with over 250K miles on it and saw it being driven around for at least the next 2 yrs. I wouldn't worry about re-building the engine or tranny. As far as a tranny fluid issue, are you losing tranny fluid but can't find a leak? Check the oil in the engine, is it going up? There is a modulator valve that goes bad on these things and it will suck the tranny fluid from the tranny to the engine? Ask me how I know. It is a cheap part, that is easy to change, except it is on the top of the tranny. What I did was peel the carpet back, make an access hole with the sawzall, tack weld and duct tape the floor back together. Easier than dropping the trans.

[cookiedough]

I have a 98 Explorer as well. At 200k you have got your money’s worth. If all it needs us a brake job fine. In my opinion it’s not worth rebuilding the engine or tyranny. Get a new to you vehicle. You will probably get less than $2,000 for it but take it and put it towards the next one.

agree 2K tops if that so if more than just the brakes, etc. minor stuff are wrong, skip it and not worth it.  I am firm believer if it costs more or darn close in repairs than the car is worth to get rid of it not fixing it up. 

My mother in law had a 2006 buick rendevous in MINT shape (literally still looked brand new on the outside she was religiously washing/waxing it to keep it clean weekly no rust no scratches to speak of)  for it's age ONLY 112K miles still ran well but she is anal about getting stranded alongside the road as she did on that buick recently when a bolt broke off the front suspension which should never happen but then again anything over 100K miles and 15 years old can happen, especially here in WI snow/salt belt.    She did end up after my egging on to get 3K trade in for a new 2020 SUV costing 25K when dealership offered only 2400 trade in.  Dealer had it listed for 4900 and sold within a week well worth 5K IMO. 

My kids 2004 pontiac vibe paid 4K for it 4 years ago 104K miles now 160K miles had to put new front struts/sway bar links in it for near 200 bucks and also needs come spring a new belt tensioner (squeals when shift into drive or reverse only on idle not moving) can see it moving and noise is coming from that area in back costing another 85 bucks but much more than say 500 in repairs is really not worth it only worth at most 3K now.  Before winter I thought the vibe had a major antifreeze leak but pretty sure a new radiator cap fixed that since no more leaking.  I could not find anywhere in hoses, engine, etc. where coolant was leaking.

[Jersey mike]

I posted this on the "Explorer Talk Forum" three days ago.  I got 27 views but not a single response so, I thought I'd try here. 

I have a 1996 Explorer 2DR Sport Utility with sun roof, white, we purchased used from a local ford dealer in 1998. It is in service and, while it has issues, it is reasonably reliable. It starts, runs, goes through all the gears. However, at 200,000 miles I was thinking it might be time to do some real re-work.

Oh, I forgot to say the brakes, on occasion, make a funny sound. It sort of comes and goes and is not predictable. The rear brakes I believe.

I was considering taking it to a local mechanic and asking him to sort of give it a once over. Maybe rebuild the engine, transmission, service all the major items, rework the brakes, oh and work on the door closure mechanism, especially the rear door/lift.... Oh and I did have an issue with the right door which a local "mechanic" sort of fixed which will need to be redone (has a different key for that door alone, claimed he could not get the correct part to fix the door lock).

So the question is, keep it and do the work (don't know the price yet) or purchase a replacement (used similar but newer).

The newer vehicle would have many unknowns which would, maybe make it more or less reliable.

If I decide to keep it the next question is, how to find a local mechanic that might be able to do what I want and get a reliable outcome? 

Here’s my thoughts.

How far does this vehicle typically travel from home on a daily basis?

Does it need to be ready on a moments notice to travel far from home?

Who is the primary driver, you or the Mrs.?

How have you been on maintenance? Plug changes, transmission service, tune ups, coolant system flush and fill, tune ups?

How’s the front end and shocks? Could it use new ball joints and alignment?


How the body look...any typical Ford rust?

How’s the heat and AC?

If everything really seems in good shape, then a good service including a trans filter, drain and fill. New plugs and coils, tune up and a complete brake job...new rotors, pads and calipers. Run it til it dies or you really need a different vehicle. For peace of mind put in a new starter and alternator too.

If this is a typical around town vehicle and doesn’t need to travel on a moments notice across the country then putting in $2-3 thousand and getting another 50 or 75k miles// 2,3, 4 years of duty is worth it. Are you ready for another car payment or do you like this truck?

[carolinarider09]

Reply to Jersey Mike:

How far does this vehicle typically travel from home on a daily basis?

20 -50 miles but not daily maybe once a week twice depending. In reality I only use it when I am taking the dog with me or having to take stuff to the trash dump or if its raining or cold out..  Otherwise I take the bike. 

Does it need to be ready on a moments notice to travel far from home? 

No

Who is the primary driver, you or the Mrs.?

Me

How have you been on maintenance? Plug changes, transmission service, tune ups, coolant system flush and fill, tune ups?

 Yes and no.  Plug changes and basic stuff.  But not the transmission service or coolant flush.  Will put that on the list to do.

How’s the front end and shocks? Could it use new ball joints and alignment?   

Shocks are new as of three or so years ago (maybe 12,000 miles on them).  I think alignment is fine, to pulling on the road.

How the body look...any typical Ford rust?

Little or no rust, some pint deterioration (well there are areas where the shinny stuff is coming off but no rust)

How’s the heat and AC?  Heat is ok, AC is ok. 

There is an issue with the way the "flaps" that control air flow move but I have worked on them 10 or so years ago and can look at them again.  Heat is an issue since I think the thermostat is sort of stuck open.  Engine gets warm but not "normal" temperature in the winter.

If everything really seems in good shape, then a good service including a trans filter, drain and fill. New plugs and coils, tune up and a complete brake job...new rotors, pads and calipers. Run it til it dies or you really need a different vehicle. For peace of mind put in a new starter and alternator too. .   

I will consult with the mechanic on those items.  Trans filter and drain and fill for sure.  I can put in another $2K for a another 3 or 4 years.  One never knows were I will be then (health wise or other wise).

If this is a typical around town vehicle and doesn’t need to travel on a moments notice across the country then putting in $2-3 thousand and getting another 50 or 75k miles// 2,3, 4 years of duty is worth it. Are you ready for another car payment or do you like this truck?

Yes and yes and I really like it because its mine and I am use to it.  It has the room in the back for our dog, it can easily two my two trailers and its sort of comfortable and not to big and not too small.

[Rams]

Again,
My advice is to fix what needs to be fixed to make or keep it reliable and when the wheels are about ready to fall off, donate it as a tax write off.   But, it's your vehicle and your money.   Do what ever you think is best.

Rams

[Patrick]

If you have not been maintaining the vehicle then it may be too late to start. If the transmitter hasn't been maintained it may not help to do it. But, I'm a nut about maintenance so I still would. I doubt yours has a modulator valve, I haven't seen one in years. But, just look at the rear of the transmission for a round thingy with a vacuum line. Pull off that line and see if there is fluid in it. If there is then the valve is bad, but, you'll also have sluggish shifts. If the engine is drawing oil thru that valve it goes thru the intake and is burned, it doesn't go into the engine.

[Robert]

my philosophy is to drive them and fix what needs fixed to maintain reliability until it just ain't worth fixing.
  

 
If its not broke don't fix it, the truck is worth little in value, much in convenience, when the 2 become unbalanced then get rid of it. Maintain to personal standards visually but don't do unnecessary repairs. You wont get anymore money for it and it wont perform any better.

Once a truck gets to this mileage and it runs well, if you have someone fix whats not broke, how do you know their repairs will last as long?  You may just trade one set of issues for another.

NO one wants to do restoration work since its to time consuming and not many want to pay for it. Its very costly to bring a car up to standard rather than just fix whats wrong.

[carolinarider09]

Patrick,

Was not aware of the modulator valve and wondered if there might be a connection that would bypass visible leakage.  I will give it a look. 

I should have included a picture before.  Here is one from this morning. 

[Jess from VA]

Well, that looks way better than your average 1996 anything.  

Note: (one of my rules):  If a ladder (or anything else tall enough) to fall on your car is left close enough, it WILL fall on your car.  This especially also includes bicycles.

I leave my ladders out up against my 8 foot fence (inside) as an inducement to criminals to scale said fence so I have something to shoot at.  I get bored easily.   

[Jersey mike]

She’s a good looking truck from that side and the good thing is you’re comfortable driving it, it sounds like you like the truck and don’t really venture too far from home with it. It sounds like you’re never too far from home and could be stranded for a long time.

Fixing the blower function issue and a new thermostat should take care of the low heat in winter.

I think the truck is worth keeping, you sound pretty confident in its overall condition with the exception of a few minor issues such as the brakes and thermostat. A coolant flush and fill with a new thermostat is good maintenance, most antifreeze is good for about 5 years.

I’ll agree with if it ain’t broke don’t fix it, but preventative maintenance is also a common thing for me such as tune up, fuel filter, air filter, new serpentine belt every 70-80k miles or 4-5 years, good tension on all the equipment driven by the belt to me is important even though there is tensioner.

As far as the tranny goes, I have heard conflicting thoughts and experiences on fluid and filter replacement with high mileage and if it’s never been done before.

All in all I say you have a keeper, especially if the radio still works too. I know those Ford radios can have issues.

At 200k if you don’t have any check engine lights on you should be in good shape.

[Patrick]

Patrick,

Was not aware of the modulator valve and wondered if there might be a connection that would bypass visible leakage.  I will give it a look. 

I should have included a picture before.  Here is one from this morning. 

Looks like the vehicle still looks good. I usually keep them until they start showing rust, being in NYS that stuff starts showing up too quickly.

Is the transmission leaking ? If so, where ? If it has a modulator valve chances are you won't see a leak unless the flex line is cracked/leaking.

Is it shifting OK ?

[carolinarider09]

Jess, about the ladder, its on a hook,  still might fall it someone pushed up on it but I take your point (the short ladder is leaning its too heavy for a hook). 

Regarding the Check Engine Light, it is no longer functional. I think the bulb burned out because I did not fix the O2 sensors (if memory serves).   

I still have the diagnostic device for this make and model. I may just go out and see what happens if I plug it up again. 

I do not remember if and when the transmission was serviced. I must admit I do not keep good records for my four wheeled vehicles.

Oh and it has a sun roof that still works. 

And the radio does still work.  But I had it sent off to a "place" to have a 1/8" stereo jack installed so I could hook up the audio from external sources (right now a Garmin 550 GPS). 

[carolinarider09]

Missed replying to Patricks questions.

The transmission does not appear to be leaking.  I placed some "stuff" under the Explorer to see if it got wet/damp, ect and it has not shown any accumulation of fluid.  So I don't think there is a leak.  Later this week I will check the transmission fluid level again and see if there has been a change.

I don't know if it has a modulator valve (that was mentioned before) so I will have to add that to my list of things to check.

It shifts ok.  It has changed somewhat in the past several months so that may indicate that the modulator valve might be leaking.  But I rarely "push it".  It has no problem pulling the trailer and traveling at 70 MPH. 

[carolinarider09]

Ok... Planned maintenance for the near future.

Oil and filter change. 
Flush and refill the cooling system and Replace thermostat and check operation
Check Transmission modulator valve and verify it is not leaking.  If it is, repair and replace.
Check rear brakes, repair and replace as needed.
Check front brakes for wear and repair or replace as needed.
Replace Check Engine Light
Replace O2 sensors
Replace spark plugs and wires (if needed).

[Patrick]

If the transmission is still working OK and the fluid doesn't smell too badly burnt it may be worth a fluid and filter change.

Its the last year for OBD1 but I'm kinda surprised its running good with the dash light not working and thinking the O2 sensors are bad. Although I don't take much stock in that, those sensors don't go bad as often as they are replaced because the old OBD1 scan tools happen to says they are bad. Most often there is something else wrong such a MAP sensor or TPSensor.

[carolinarider09]

It says its an ODB II and I got the tool back out and set it up and did the scan.  Only thing that came back was P0133 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response Bank 1.  I will add the transmission change to the list.  

Ok... Planned maintenance for the near future (Updated)

Oil and filter change.  
Flush and refill the cooling system and Replace thermostat and check operation
Check Transmission modulator valve and verify it is not leaking.  If it is, repair and replace.
Check rear brakes, repair and replace as needed.
Check front brakes for wear and repair or replace as needed.
Replace Check Engine Light
Replace O2 sensors
Replace spark plugs and wires (if needed)
Transmission fluid change and filter as needed.
Repair door locks (currently one door does not work).
Replace spare tire with one that will work

The door lock issue is not new but it relates to someone who did some work and did not do it well, said they could not find the appropriate part that the door lock uses to open the latch. Anyway it is FUBAR.

Scan tool used.



The only real rust on the body.  Its the roof.  

[Robert]

Some things to think about,

Coolant never goes bad, Yes it can get acid or loose its additive package but essentially ethylene glycol never goes bad. The additive packages can fall out of the coolant and clog the radiator. A additive such as water wetter will bring the additive package up to snuff help the cooling system and will not put additional additives in the system that can fall out and clog the radiator. Changing the fluid can and will depending on the antifreeze type used.

Rather than replacing the trans fluid and filter try a trans flush. Its much more complete and sometimes not necessary to replace the filter. Most times its not as hard on the trans either. By running the engine and allow a complete flush of the trans fluid with a possible synthetic fluid you have replaced all the trans fluid not just part. Most times unless there is a problem with the trans, the filter  will not be clogged. Most trans have 13 quarts of oil, the filter change only requires 3 or 4. By the flush you allow even the fluid in the converter to be changed with the latest fluid and not a partial change. Seems as long as done correctly there is less complications also from this.

Before going ahead and replacing the O2 sensor check for air leaks and a possible vacuum leak in the brake booster also. A lazy sensor could be nothing more than a bad one but sometimes its a problem with the extra air getting into the system and causing it not to cycle the way its supposed to. A bad or dirty injectors can cause this also but its more common to see an air leak rather than a bad injector. On the intake these engines have some vacuum lines in the back that have a rubber fitting that collapses.

If I am correct then they also have a plastic intake manifold with the Ford gaskets that seem to always flatten out and cause air leaks.

The other thing to know if I remember correctly they have a crankcase breather located under the intake manifold in the V of the engine in the rear part of the center V and it has a vacuum hose that is short and goes to the back of the intake manifold. This hose collapses and breaks and can cause many assorted problems in the running. It is hard to find and hard to see and I dont know if your truck has it but I am fairly certain it does. This has been a source of problems for this truck with both engines that it comes with.

In general these trucks just dont die, they are let go and suffer lack of maintenance but they do not die.

As for transmission fluid that is fully synthetic either RedLine or Mobil One synthetic ATF which is full synthetic should work, but check to make sure. 

[carolinarider09]

Robert,

Thanks for the feedback.  I will modify the list of items.  The flush is something I have heard of but never been involved with. 

As for the O2 sensor, I think I will have to replace the lamp (forget the name now) and maybe let the tech or repair shop investigate.  All I know at this time is what the tester said.  Funny thing I think I got that tester 15 or 20 years ago and it responded today the way it did then when I first saw the light and investigated. 

Also, I got my Refrigeration Transition And Recovery  "Universal'` so I could get R-12 for the A/C.  I still have a can or two.  Wonder if it is still good.  Will have to look that up.  But then I 'd need a vacuum pump.  I could build one like I did for a High School Science Fair in the sixties but....

[Robert]

Robert,

Also, I got my Refrigeration Transition And Recovery  "Universal'` so I could get R-12 for the A/C.  I still have a can or two.  Wonder if it is still good.  Will have to look that up.  But then I 'd need a vacuum pump.  I could build one like I did for a High School Science Fair in the sixties but....

Sell it, if you mean R12 for this truck that is. It takes 134 and even if it wasn't I would switch it over. The only key in switching most systems over is the condenser cooling. If there is NOT alot of air through the condenser then you will have problems with 134. But if as is the case with these trucks there is plenty of cooling it will be no problem. R12 is VERY EXPENSIVE and could help pay for some of the repairs. It never goes bad and some will pay handsomely for a can.

If the system does not work then yes vacuum it out and then charge it and don't forget the oil. Hopefully you don't have a leak in the evap which is a huge time waster as you have to pull the dash.

[Rams]

Robert,

Also, I got my Refrigeration Transition And Recovery  "Universal'` so I could get R-12 for the A/C.  I still have a can or two.  Wonder if it is still good.  Will have to look that up.  But then I 'd need a vacuum pump.  I could build one like I did for a High School Science Fair in the sixties but....

Sell it, if you mean R12 for this truck that is. It takes 134 and even if it wasn't I would switch it over. The only key in switching most systems over is the condenser cooling. If there is NOT alot of air through the condenser then you will have problems with 134. But if as is the case with these trucks there is plenty of cooling it will be no problem. R12 is VERY EXPENSIVE and could help pay for some of the repairs. It never goes bad and some will pay handsomely for a can.

If the system does not work then yes vacuum it out and then charge it and don't forget the oil. Hopefully you don't have a leak in the evap which is a huge time waster as you have to pull the dash.

Reference that AC, run a vacuum leak test prior to put any 134 or R12 into the system, you could be just wasting your time, materials and money if there's a leak.

Rams