Water Pump

[Windjammer]

Does anyone still supply a Chrome water pump for the Interstate? I can't remember if Chet offered this or someone else. I will need a new one for Spring so getting started to find one.

[R J]

Does anyone still supply a Chrome water pump for the Interstate? I can't remember if Chet offered this or someone else. I will need a new one for Spring so getting started to find one.

Just curious here.

What makes you think you will need one by spring?

MGM w/242K + change is still on the original.....

[Thunderbolt]

I think you sent him yours and some $$ and he sent you a chromed one.

[Windjammer]

Does anyone still supply a Chrome water pump for the Interstate? I can't remember if Chet offered this or someone else. I will need a new one for Spring so getting started to find one.

Just curious here.

What makes you think you will need one by spring?

MGM w/242K + change is still on the original.....

I THINK I need a new one. I changed my fluid/Anti Freeze two years ago. I did a complete flush and used the Honda stuff. No problems till end of riding season this year, I noticed a small puddle under the bike while out one day. Didn't think much about it as I thought it must have come from someone else? About a month later, The bike started to overheat. The fan came on and I was moving? Water started coming from under the cap and spitting on me and Jan. I stopped at a honda dealer and let it cool down. Opened it up and poured in a quart of coolant. HMMMMM? No problems for another month, I took a little ride from Villa Park to Debuque, IA. McGreggor, and then to Spring Green WI. and over to Janesville and back to Villa Park. No problems. A week or so later started out and about 10 miles out started spitting out the top of the Radiator/Under the cap. Poured in another quart,( I purchased a couple just in case quarts) So with that I haven't ridden the weather turned crap here and Figured I would fix it in the spring. I haven't noticed any water dripping So I am kinda baffled at this point. It might be just tighten up the hoses or new ones. I have talked to some other Valk owners who have changed out there water pump that failed. I am open to any Ideas RJ. I have talked to Chet and he no longer does the exchange. I know that when the car needs a new water pump it usually leaks out the weep hole. and you can usually feel the packing gone. when you turn the shaft. Don't know how to check out the water pump on the Valk. I need to do some maintenance anyhow Like change out the fork seals, new bulbs for the Interstate fairing to light up the gauges.
Regards, Danny

[quexpress]

I think you sent him yours and some $$ and he sent you a chromed one.

That was it, but this didn't include the water pump. We are only talking about the water pump cover ... not the whole unit. 

[BudMan]

I would consider a sticking thermostat rather than a water pump in this situation.
I can't figure a water pump causing an intermittent condition.  A thermostat however, can easily stick one time and not another.
Interesting problem either way.  Be sure and let us know how it turns out.

[Earl in Pensacola]

Take off the rad. hoses, flush the radiator, change the thermostat and make sure that the Rad. cap is on the rad, neck correctly.  It is very easy to damage the rad. neck and/or the rad. cap. either of which can and will cause the loss of the coolant. It might be nec. to bend the "ears" on the pressure cap in just a little to have them hold the PSI.
Just another 2 cents.

[MP]

Are you checking the overflow tank?  Check level when cold, and again when hot.  It should go up noticable.  If not, either rad cap not sealing, or air leak in hose.  If not sealed, you will gradually lose fluid in rad thru heating and cooling cycles.

Get rad full, and note level on overflow.  Get engine fully warm, and see that fluid has gone up at least 1/2 inch in overflow.  If not, there is your problem.

MP

[Windjammer]

Are you checking the overflow tank?  Check level when cold, and again when hot.  It should go up noticable.  If not, either rad cap not sealing, or air leak in hose.  If not sealed, you will gradually lose fluid in rad thru heating and cooling cycles.

Get rad full, and note level on overflow.  Get engine fully warm, and see that fluid has gone up at least 1/2 inch in overflow.  If not, there is your problem.

MP

I will look into that. Thanks.

[Windjammer]

Thanks for the help. It is -2 here today and not much better in the garage. It will have to wait! till at least it warm up into the 50's At least it is some starting points.

[HOZ]

Check the overflow tank at the bottom nipple, they have been known to crack and not be very noticeable by just looking at it. Try a pressure test of sorts with air pressure in the tank (all orifices pluged) and some soapy water on the outside. If it bubbles, well you know the drill. I bought a used one on ebay (I think $10 + shipping) this summer just in case, along with many other parts that I hope I never have to use. But with 2 Valks now I thought I'd hedge my bet and prepare a little.