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RustyValkry
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« on: March 11, 2021, 01:39:58 PM » |
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It's not 6 or 12 point. I thought Iight get lucky and sneak past using a 12 point but no such luck.
Does anyone know what that head configuration is and the size. Like so many other bolts going into aluminum on this bike it's majorly frozen.
Thanks.
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RustyValkry
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« Reply #1 on: March 11, 2021, 01:49:06 PM » |
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Hmmm, I was just looking at it again and it does to appear to be 6 point 14mm.
I'm going to carefully try again and see if I can break it loose.
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WintrSol
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« Reply #2 on: March 11, 2021, 02:13:42 PM » |
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I use an impact ratchet wrench for bolts like that. The repeated hammering action usually breaks them loose. If you don't have one, and an air supply, well, you can't have too many tools.  |
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98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #3 on: March 11, 2021, 02:16:21 PM » |
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Sometimes they get really stuck. After seeing the other parts of this bike, it’s going to be REALLY stuck. (But, I know you’ll get it)
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #4 on: March 11, 2021, 02:32:28 PM » |
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Heat penetrating oil and a 40ft breaker bar
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #5 on: March 11, 2021, 02:40:17 PM » |
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It's not 6 or 12 point. I thought Iight get lucky and sneak past using a 12 point but no such luck.
Does anyone know what that head configuration is and the size. Like so many other bolts going into aluminum on this bike it's majorly frozen.
Thanks.
This bolt threads into the swing arm. Steel/steel no aluminum. Probably was over tightened and no anti seize. |
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RustyValkry
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« Reply #6 on: March 11, 2021, 03:18:48 PM » |
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It's not 6 or 12 point. I thought Iight get lucky and sneak past using a 12 point but no such luck.
Does anyone know what that head configuration is and the size. Like so many other bolts going into aluminum on this bike it's majorly frozen.
Thanks.
This bolt threads into the swing arm. Steel/steel no aluminum. Probably was over tightened and no anti seize. Thanks to all who responded. Once I saw it was indeed 6 point I tried again. Before I started with a 1/2" breaker bar I remembered I had my Lisle manual impact driver with me so I went after it with that for a while. After I figured I shocked it enough, I had already sprayed it with PB Blaster, I put the 1/2" breaker on it. It finally let go and I saw the truth of what you said, threads are into steel not aluminum. I was being very conservative with how I went after it because all I had in 14mm was a craftsman 3/8" socket, non-impact and I figured I needed to be careful with it or I'd have nothing left to work with. It was a productive day on the RustyValkyrie. I'll be posting some pictures on the other thread in a little while if anyone is interested. I should probably replace this bolt but I'm going to go with it for now. |
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indybobm
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« Reply #7 on: March 12, 2021, 04:40:04 AM » |
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If it is buggered at all I would replace it now. That is one bolt that you do not want to have trouble with. As for torque requirements, I do not see any reason for the specs to call for it to be that tight. I think 51 ftlbs is overkill.
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So many roads, so little time
VRCC # 5258
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Earl43P
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« Reply #8 on: March 12, 2021, 04:46:28 AM » |
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Clean that bolt up good and moly paste it lightly. Doesn't need to be that gorilla tight either.
I do the shock bolt into the final drive with moly as well (light smear coat).
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08 Goldwing
21 KTM390A
99 Valkyrie IS Sold 5/5/23
VRCC #35672
VRCCDS # 0264
When all else fails, RTFM.
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #9 on: March 12, 2021, 05:08:16 AM » |
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If it is buggered at all I would replace it now. That is one bolt that you do not want to have trouble with. As for torque requirements, I do not see any reason for the specs to call for it to be that tight. I think 51 ftlbs is overkill.
Exactly right on the torque. It just needs to be snug enough so it won’t back itself out. It doesn’t fasten anything it’s s blocking’s pin. Tighten it like a spark plug, same for that lower shock bolt on the final drive |
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RustyValkry
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« Reply #10 on: March 12, 2021, 07:40:13 AM » |
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Clean that bolt up good and moly paste it lightly. Doesn't need to be that gorilla tight either.
I do the shock bolt into the final drive with moly as well (light smear coat).
Yes, that final drive side shock bolt was cleaned, greased and anti-seized. I was careful about how tight I made it as well. People tend to over torque stuff, though in the case of the stopper bolt I think it was the same pervasive corrosion that made it such a problem. |
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RustyValkry
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« Reply #11 on: March 12, 2021, 07:43:42 AM » |
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Thanks for the replies. I'm going to have a closer look at the bolt head and decide if I'll replace it or, as Earl43p said, it can be dressed do that and reuse. I see the truth of how screwed I'd be if that one rounded off.
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0leman
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« Reply #12 on: March 12, 2021, 07:44:42 AM » |
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Several years back, lost that bolt. Not sure if I didn't tighten it enough or not. May have just not put it back in. Anyway, it was just gone. Did slightly ding the shock case before I found it was gone.
It is not the type you can run down to the local hardware store to get. If remember it costed $10 bucks or more at Honda dealer. Took them couple of weeks to get it.
I agree 51 lbs. is a bit over kill.
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2006 Shadow Spirit 1100 gone but not forgotten
1999 Valkryie I/S Green/Silver
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