Getting irritated with #3

[Lrndthehardway]

So, first off, I pulled all the intakes to set my mixture screws to 2.5 from 2.25, she seemed to be running lean with the K&N and cobras at 2.25. When I pulled #3 intake it was full of gas. I just pulled these carbs and cleaned them last summer so idk whats up with that. After I set the idle screws and out the intakes back on I pulled plug 3 and turned it over, very little fuel came out so Ill worry about that later. There are other issues with #3 to. The idle in 3 is weird. With my hand over every other exhaust end it has a nice even consistent pulse. The tip at 3 is a lot more "violent" of a flow, and every once in awhile theres a big puff of air? I guess? I dont know how else to explain it. Its not consistent, just every few seconds, and you can hear it. This is at idle.

While riding, with the throttle barely cracked and higher rpms, theres a lot of popping and an occasional backfire from the right side and Im assuming its number 3 as well.

So far ive done:
New Plugs, back to old plugs
New coils and wires
Checked for vacuum leaks
Compression test shows 150 + or - a couple psi on 1,3,2,4 & 6, 165 on 5.
Also its:
Desmogged
OEM air filter
Cobra 6x6
Stock jets

I honestly have nothing to compare this bike to, its the only one Ive ever ridden but it doesnt feel up to par and a little sick..

Not sure where to go from here

[Jess from VA]

If desmogged, have you checked to be sure the vacuum caps on the nipples on the inside of the intake tubes are not cracked (or blown off)?

I had a couple of them cracked and blown off, and I got bad backfires and popping (mostly on high speed deceleration).

Cheapo auto parts nipple caps got hot and self destructed (even with tiny zip ties on them) and I had to find better caps.

[Lrndthehardway]

If desmogged, have you checked to be sure the vacuum caps on the nipples on the inside of the intake tubes are not cracked (or blown off)?

I had a couple of them cracked and blown off, and I got bad backfires and popping (mostly on high speed deceleration).

Cheapo auto parts nipple caps got hot and self destructed (even with tiny zip ties on them) and I had to find better caps.

Thanks but yeah, replaced them when I did the rebuild, and have synched the carbs multiple times in the last couple of days, should have mentioned that. Also forgot to mention that all the jets were cleaned in an ultra sonic cleaner when rebuilt to, thanks again tho

[John Schmidt]

Regardless of how they might look to the naked eye, I've found over the years you're better off just replacing the jet. Sonic cleaners work very good in most cases....such as cleaning the carb bodies and various attachments. But even that often leaves internal passages questionable at times. I'd also replace all the mixture needles along with the o-rings, washer, etc. Get a Redeye kit if not already in use.

[Jims99]

I’ve also read there’s an upgrade to the float valves. (David W.) has mentioned K&L 18-8955 float valves have a slightly higher spring rate that helps them seal better. He uses them all the time. I’m going to try these on my tourer this year when I go through my carbs.

[Lrndthehardway]

Regardless of how they might look to the naked eye, I've found over the years you're better off just replacing the jet. Sonic cleaners work very good in most cases....such as cleaning the carb bodies and various attachments. But even that often leaves internal passages questionable at times. I'd also replace all the mixture needles along with the o-rings, washer, etc. Get a Redeye kit if not already in use.

I think thats what Im going to do is just replace them all. When I did the rebuild I did use the redeye kit.

[Lrndthehardway]

I’ve also read there’s an upgrade to the float valves. (David W.) has mentioned K&L 18-8955 float valves have a slightly higher spring rate that helps them seal better. He uses them all the time. I’m going to try these on my tourer this year when I go through my carbs.

These were the exact ones I used during my rebuild. I think Im going to have to pull the damn carbs again and check them out, put in some new jets

[Gregory Scott 16248]

I’ve also read there’s an upgrade to the float valves. (David W.) has mentioned K&L 18-8955 float valves have a slightly higher spring rate that helps them seal better. He uses them all the time. I’m going to try these on my tourer this year when I go through my carbs.

I also used the K&L 18-8955 float valves when I rebuilt my carburetors last year. They seem to work just fine with no fuel leaking into the cylinders.

[Lrndthehardway]

Im going to drop the bowls and check everything out, have some 38 slows coming, and might put the glasspack exhaust back on, not sure yet..