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cookiedough
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« on: May 04, 2021, 07:40:46 PM » |
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well made my rounded off lawnmower blade bolt even worse tonight rounding it off very badly unable to get blade bolt off pushmower to get blade off to sharpen it. I tried HEAT, penetrating oil dozens of times, hammering/chisel, after the normal 14mm/9/16" socket set started rounding off the edges. I put so much force with breaker bar, etc. the blade was cutting into my landscape timber a good 1/2 inch inward used to stop the blade from rotating. Then I made the bolt buggered up rounded off pretty good now with a big vice grips (tried plumbers wrench pipe could not get a good tightness going) clamped on super tight it just spun with all my weight and both hands on the vice grips. And YES, I am going the right way counterclockwise. It was on from the factory am sure OEM has to be on over 100lbs. of force. Is my prime pushmower Honda engine and good overall shape but the blade is pretty dull need to get it sharpened but risk snapping off the blade bolt if I give it too much force as I have done a few times in my life once on an old 1980's car with one stubborn spark plug snapping it off at the threads below the nut
Question: thinking of either buying on amazon a 13 pc bolt remover set which most got very good reviews for 26 bucks basically a reverse spiraled socket set that digs into the rounded off edges of the bolt so as to NOT spin/slip. Or go to harbor freight for 30 bucks get their 13 pc set. Anyone have good luck with either removing rounded off bolt heads?
Watched a few utube videos and some even take the 9/16" rounded off bolt head and grind it down 6 pts. again smaller to 1/2 inch size and give it another go with a 6 pt. socket set with breaker bar. I doubt I have that much strength to SNAP the bolt head off the shank, but never know? If so, I am toast leaving the long 2 to 3 inch bolt threads inside the lawnmower not holding a darn thing.
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Valker
Member
Posts: 2995
Wahoo!!!!
Texas Panhandle
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« Reply #1 on: May 04, 2021, 08:01:34 PM » |
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I had a lawnmower with a left hand thread to prevent loosening while running. Are you SURE it's a righty tighty bolt?
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I ride a motorcycle because nothing transports me as quickly from where I am to who I am.
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cookiedough
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« Reply #2 on: May 04, 2021, 08:20:09 PM » |
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I had a lawnmower with a left hand thread to prevent loosening while running. Are you SURE it's a righty tighty bolt?
It's a TORO 22 inch push mower rear wheel drive model 20337 serial 315001680 with honda engine on it. Never had a mower with a left handed thread blade bolt, but if it is, I done a BAD thing trying to tighten it up vs. loosening it. this is the blade bolt 3 dollar part does not say left or right threaded though # 117-5270 https://www.ereplacementparts.com/boltblade-p-727617.htmlhttps://www.ereplacementparts.com/boltblade-p-727617.htmlOnly thing I cannot do is weld a new bolt over it and try undoing new bolt welded on since have no welder. Seems to be a normal righty tighty to me just like all my other 1 blade push mowers. I better check that out tomorrow?  |
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« Last Edit: May 04, 2021, 08:44:03 PM by cookiedough »
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Rams
Member
Posts: 16206
So many colors to choose from yet so few stand out
Covington, TN
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« Reply #3 on: May 04, 2021, 08:46:22 PM » |
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I had a lawnmower with a left hand thread to prevent loosening while running. Are you SURE it's a righty tighty bolt?
It's a TORO 22 inch push mower rear wheel drive model 20337 serial 315001680 with honda engine on it. Never had a mower with a left handed thread blade bolt, but if it is, I done a BAD thing trying to tighten it up vs. loosening it. this is the blade bolt 3 dollar part does not say left or right threaded though # 117-5270 https://www.ereplacementparts.com/boltblade-p-727617.htmlhttps://www.ereplacementparts.com/boltblade-p-727617.htmlOnly thing I cannot do is weld a new bolt over it and try undoing new bolt welded on since have no welder. Seems to be a normal righty tighty to me just like all my other 1 blade push mowers. I better check that out tomorrow? Since I don't know, I think I'd call the Honda maintenance folks or shop nearest you and ask, is the a left or right hand thread bolt................... Just my opinion, you do what you want. Rams |
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VRCC# 29981
Learning the majority of life's lessons the hard way.
Every trip is an adventure, enjoy it while it lasts.
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JimC
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« Reply #4 on: May 04, 2021, 09:23:25 PM » |
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Quite a few lawn mowers are not standard type thread. It depends on witch way the blades turn, that way if you hit a rock it will tighten, not spin off.
I never take my blades off, I lay it over and use an angle grinder on it LIGHTLY, just enough to take the big gouges out of it. I have never had to replace a blade either, the mowers wear out before the blades.
Jim
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Jim Callaghan SE Wisconsin
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klb
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« Reply #5 on: May 04, 2021, 09:28:52 PM » |
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« Last Edit: May 04, 2021, 09:41:42 PM by klb »
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h13man
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Posts: 1752
To everything there is an exception.
Indiana NW Central Flatlands
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« Reply #6 on: May 05, 2021, 06:25:26 AM » |
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Having "star" mounting on all my mowers over the years they all have been RH but as far as LH thread, usually manufactures put the LH designation on the head but...
I suggest anti seize on the threads in the future.
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cookiedough
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« Reply #7 on: May 05, 2021, 08:35:09 AM » |
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yah page 15 is lefty loosey as I have tried dozens of times even put the block of wood wedged in there just like the pic on page 15 top pic to prevent blade from spinning having the blade dig into half an inch or so into the wood block. I like how they say 60ft. lbs. of torque to tighten and VERY hard to OVERTIGHTEN the bolt. They be WRONG on that one has to be over 90lbs. torqued on from factory I have done dozens of lawnmower blade bolts off as well as car lug nuts at/around 70ft. lbs. of torque and not once have had this type of issue being super duper tight enough to round off the bolt head. I guess no one on here has bought the 26 dollar kit on amazon.com or something similar from harbor freight being a 13 or 9 piece bolt remover set that looks like socket sets but with spiral (or jagged) grooves that actually BITE into the bolt head when trying to loosen the bolt. that TORO 3 dollar blade bolt though does not have much of a depth to it and angles outward quicker on the inside than most normal bolts do so not much depth left to get a socket onto it very deep. either that bolt remover set or try grinding down flat 6 sides again to 1/2 inch from 9/16" normally and try again? Either way, once the blade bolt comes out a new one will have to go back on is buggered up beyond being useful anymore. as far as not removing the blade to sharpen, yah, can use an angle grinder I suppose to remove the knicks if all else fails but prefer to take the blade off to scrape off all the lawn crud that over a few years sticks to the blade itself. I have a small bench grinder to sharpen my own blades good enough for me to put a sharp edge on blades again every year. Is 'usually unlike this time' much easier for me to take the blade off vs. using an angle grinder, etc. to sharpen and clean the blade up every year. I might bite the bullet on this one and 2 Toro shops have the impact wrench/bolt removal tools, etc. to hopefully remove the bolt. both are reasonably priced 50 and 60 bucks per hour but hoping is a 15 minute job (or 5 minutes) with the 'right' tools. Both called and both can get to it within a week or so backed up as usual come spring with 10-20 repairs but can squeeze me in. |
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« Last Edit: May 05, 2021, 09:09:50 AM by cookiedough »
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Patrick
Member
Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
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« Reply #8 on: May 05, 2021, 09:29:00 AM » |
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After all you have done I'd be surprised if an 'extractor' would work.
What kind of heat did you use ? It'll need real heat, not just typical propane. Try map.
Tap the end of the bolt with a hammer, keep tapping. Vibration is a good thing.
Vise grips should work, but, grind ing to the smaller size may be required if its that bad. If you do the grinding then use an impact wrench.
There have been times in other instances where I've cut off the bolt head, carefully center punched the bolt, drilled a pilot hole and tapped the hole back to the original thread size. This is the job I always seemed to get in our shop.
Or, you could resort to what Jim does and sharpen the blade while still installed.
Oh, maybe its just me but I sharpen blade at least once a year.
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« Last Edit: May 05, 2021, 09:37:13 AM by Patrick »
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Serk
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« Reply #9 on: May 05, 2021, 09:31:40 AM » |
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...just saying.....  |
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Never ask a geek 'Why?',just nod your head and slowly back away...  IBA# 22107 VRCC# 7976 VRCCDS# 226 1998 Valkyrie Standard 2008 Gold Wing Taxation is theft. μολὼν λαβέ |
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Wizzard
Member
Posts: 4043
Bald River Falls
Valparaiso IN
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« Reply #10 on: May 05, 2021, 11:06:00 AM » |
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Weld a big nut on the head then remove it and put in a new bolt.
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 VRCC # 24157 |
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cookiedough
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« Reply #11 on: May 05, 2021, 11:18:50 AM » |
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have no impact wrench and no welder, bummer. I was going to spend 26 bucks on amazon for a 13 piece strip bolt remover set 'made in china' like most are, reviews on all of them are very good on getting rounded off bolts removed. I think I am giving up on it and hopefully spending only 20-30 bucks to remove one stinking bolt at 2 somewhat local Toro dealers and HOPE is not a full $60 hr for a 120 dollar mower.....  One place said call 1st to make sure he will be home and he will attempt to remove it with his bolt remover set with impact wrench while I am there. If it comes out in 1st few minutes then minimum charge not much otherwise will have to let it sit there for a week or so until he gets around to it again. The other place said drop it off will get to it within a week or so have other older repairs needing done first. One thing is for sure will have whomever does it put a dab of anti seize on new blade bolt going in since never want to see this again am sure rusted on from factory OEM since 2015 bought slightly used in 2018 or so. The guy I bought it from said he has not used it much as evident by being in near like new condition having a riding mower for his big yard, but I always question since he did say he used the hose washing hookup to spray water under the deck to get it clean. I wonder if the bolt rusted on from water rusting on which does seem evident to me looking at the blade assembly. |
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cookiedough
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« Reply #12 on: May 06, 2021, 10:31:46 AM » |
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Weld a big nut on the head then remove it and put in a new bolt.
yep, that is what had to be done easy removal then. Impact wrench and bolt removal socket never budged it. Anti-seize on the threads. I guess pays to remove blade bolts every year or every 2 years for sure since somehow this one from factory in 2015 was welded (or rusted) on good. I told the wife I need a welder and impact wrench, both neither cheap. she said no..... LOL  I could have asked my brother who welds at a fabricating mom/pop shop, but would have taken longer than one week to get it back am sure. |
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« Last Edit: May 07, 2021, 06:58:13 AM by cookiedough »
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Patrick
Member
Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
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« Reply #14 on: May 09, 2021, 09:22:12 AM » |
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Welding on the nut is a good idea, especially around the outside. The heat sure helped with getting the bolt loose.
Once its replaced and you remove it once in awhile it'll probably not give any more trouble.
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mbramley
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« Reply #15 on: May 09, 2021, 03:29:05 PM » |
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I have a set of Craftsman spiral sockets. Mine only work for standard direction thread. I have used them on some seriously stuck rounded bolts. They have worked almost every time.
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cookiedough
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« Reply #16 on: May 10, 2021, 08:04:24 AM » |
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Welding on the nut is a good idea, especially around the outside. The heat sure helped with getting the bolt loose.
Once its replaced and you remove it once in awhile it'll probably not give any more trouble.
agree, after on, I undid the bolt EASY to get off now like a normal bolt should be on tight but NOT SUPER DUPER tight as the OEM was from 2015 NEVER taken off ever. ONLY problem I had I thought I put it on tight enough but did NOT I started the mower blade a few days ago testing it out after putting sharpened blade back on and heard a knock knock after the blade slowed down shutting engine off after few minutes of running. Guess what, I NEVER tightened the darn bolt tight enough so cranked it on again this time super tight with a basic socket set. I will try one more time later today or tomorrow before I mow the grass with it just to make sure I hear NO MORE knock, knock noise from a wobbly blade. If I have anymore issues, I will get out my torque wrench suppose to be 60 ft. lbs. of torque which is usually what I can do tightness wise on lug nut bolts of my car with a basic socket set then stepping it up to 70ft. lbs. for lug nuts with a 4-way lug wrench used for car tire lug nuts. I can guarantee that OEM blade bolt of that lawnmower was on over 100 ft. lbs. of torque either from factory or being rusted on the past 6 years never taken off once (3 years from previous 1st owner). I think the previous owner of Toro mower said to me he washed his deck with the built in hose attacher which I think can easily rust the bolt right on having water sprayed on it all the time after each use not helping for sure trying to remove it. From here on out I am removing the blade like I normally do after each season in the spring to clean the deck and sharpen the blade. If I do not use anti-seize like I just did on this new blade bolt threads just now, I will for sure at least use 3 in 1 oil on the threads to help loosen it for the next year. |
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Patrick
Member
Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
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« Reply #18 on: May 10, 2021, 02:02:29 PM » |
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Yep, not sure I could survive without an impact. I have hand/hammer [2] / air [4] and battery. I'm surprised how strong the Rigid battery wrench is and it was cheap.
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