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Author Topic: EFI Setup  (Read 1084 times)
camfromchilla
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Posts: 8


Perth, Australia


« on: May 10, 2021, 04:08:50 AM »

Good Evening all,

As I have posted I have noticed that I have had a lot of interest in how the EFI has been setup on my Valk.  I was planning to put up a post earlier however I have had a very busy week at work.

Here is a link to what photos I can take without dismantling the entire system. https://photos.app.goo.gl/WTTLBgxgVp3fcKu46

General Setup and Wiring
The EFI has been setup with a Wolf 3D v4+ as the ECU.  It is using the standard crank sensor as its timing input.  This has been done by using 3 ignition channels with wasted spark and 3 injector channels with wasted squirt.  The Wolf has inbuilt MAP sensor and uses TPS from the fitted throttle body to develop a load table which then controls an injector pulse table.

Hardware
Everything between the engine and the tank has been removed.  In its place has been added custom built intake runners, flat plane intake manifold with internal wastegate, supercharger, new coolant outlets for clearance, fuel rails, twin idlers and crank end pulley. In addition to the custom built parts there is also a low pressure filter, high pressure filter, universal EFI fuel pump, wastegate vacuum actuator, CH Lancer throttle body(I only just put this in as when I got it it had a 75mm ford one), adjustable fuel pressure reg, 1 wire IAT sensor, 6x Bosch injectors (I haven't got a size or part number from them yet), Bosch coil controller and 3 dual output Bosch coils.

Intake Concept
The intake is a beautiful piece of billet engineering. Air comes in horizontally through the throttle body into a cavity before it heads into the supercharger.  In the top of this cavity is the wastegate return from the intake manifold.  After coming in the back of the blower it then comes out the top and directly into the front of the manifold.  It then heads backwards to each of the intake runners.  At the very back is the wastegate which allows the air to return to the lower cavity for recycling when not making boost. Being a flat manifold the injectors are located directly on top and squirt into the beginning of each runner.  On the front outside of the manifold are 2 idler pulleys.  There is an extra pulley mounted to the front of the crank to drive the blower.  From here the belt goes over the top of both idlers and comes part way back down to wrap around the blower pulley driving it on the reverse side of the belt.

Problems
There is a few issues that I am trying to iron out of it.  I'm not 100% sure is it is due to design or may be due to something else.  Being that I bought it the way it is it's very hard for me to understand if these issues were in place since original build (possible because I think it has been parked almost as long as it has been upgraded) or if they are due to age or wear or anything else.

1.  Low speed running.  This bike does not want to run nicely at low engine speeds (under about 2000rpm). 
This has been improved slightly by reducing the size of the throttle body.  It had a 75mm when I picked it up.  I managed to find a used TB from a CH Lancer that used the same bolt pattern as the Ford one which made the swap relatively easy.  It may still be too large but its a start in the right direction.
I think that another contributing factor is the injector placement.  The injectors being in the manifold means they are about 12" from the valves.  They are so close to the common part of the manifold that I think at low speed it is actually sucking the fuel back out of the runner and causing a lean condition for the first 20-30 secs after returning to idle (the amount of time it takes for it to get the ENTIRE air system to stoich). I have made sure that there are no vacuum leaks.  The reason I am so sure that it is sucking the fuel back is that there is no fuel fluctuation that coincides with it returning to a slightly rich idle after those 20-30s.  (i.e. pressure and pulse width are remaining constant.)

2.  Tach.  The tach is reading about 50% high.  I believe this is due to it not being compatible with the tach output of the wolf (which is not adjustable).  It also won't trigger from the coils, coil driver or the injectors.  Not high on my priority list until I get #1 sorted.


Any ideas for possible solutions are greatly welcomed.  I am planning to get it put on the dyno and see if they are able to get it to behave but the better I can get it before I do the less time it will hopefully have to spend there.

I am sure I have missed some things so feel free to ask me anything else about it you want to know.
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