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Chrisj CMA
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« on: May 10, 2021, 02:49:44 PM » |
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Since I had the fork seals done. This Saturday on a 200 mile breakfast run the right fork started leaking. So when I got home I did the seal mate thing and it seems to have helped greatly. Next I called our local Honda dealer. Nope. They won’t touch a bike that old.
So I’m going to do it myself. Never done a fork so it’s about time. Parts on order and the seal driver on order. I’ll post progress and pictures I feel like I’ve already done it I’ve seen so many YouTube videos now. All I need once the parts arrive is a couple qts of fork oil. What are you using for oil lately?
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« Last Edit: May 10, 2021, 06:04:31 PM by Chrisj CMA »
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old2soon
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« Reply #1 on: May 10, 2021, 03:14:39 PM » |
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Ross-da prez-did mine couple years back and what ever Honda recommended for fork oil Is what we used. Seems to me it was 10 wgt fork oil and it was red. Also use Honda seals. Wasted some money on All Balls seals. And as an aside-extra pair of hands while doing your forks can be a Good Thing. And make SURE you use the Correct amount of oil in each fork. I seem to recall the oil amount IS different in each leg. RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check. 1964 1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240 2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
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Warlock
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« Reply #2 on: May 10, 2021, 03:28:34 PM » |
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Since I had the fork seals done. This Saturday on a 200 mile breakfast run the right fork started leaking. So when I got home I did the seal mate thing and it seems to have helped greatly. Next I called our local Honda dealer. Nope. They won’t touch a bike that old.
So I’m going to do it myself. Never done a fork so it’s about time. Parts on order and the seal driver on order. I’ll post progress and pictures I feel like I’ve already done it I’ve seen so many YouTube videos now. All I need once the parts arrive is a couple qts of fork oil. What are you using for oil lately?
Unless you are changing out the springs, no need to remove the springs to change out bushings or seals. David |
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 I don't want to hear the labor pains, I just want to see the baby |
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #3 on: May 10, 2021, 03:31:59 PM » |
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You know, cleaning out the seals with the Seal Mate or Fork Doctor kept my leaks stopped (pretty much), for a number of years, with only occasional cleaning again. In those years, I never had one drop on the brakes, and I never lost any function (I could notice) from fluid loss.
Supposed to be 10 wt.
Big BF (Bill) finally did my full rebuild (RIP). I told him to use an ounce or ounce and a half less than called for in the manual and he did. The dealer that did my first rebuild on another valk, turned my forks into stone.
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« Last Edit: May 10, 2021, 03:33:48 PM by Jess from VA »
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #4 on: May 10, 2021, 05:22:19 PM » |
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Since I had the fork seals done. This Saturday on a 200 mile breakfast run the right fork started leaking. So when I got home I did the seal mate thing and it seems to have helped greatly. Next I called our local Honda dealer. Nope. They won’t touch a bike that old.
So I’m going to do it myself. Never done a fork so it’s about time. Parts on order and the seal driver on order. I’ll post progress and pictures I feel like I’ve already done it I’ve seen so many YouTube videos now. All I need once the parts arrive is a couple qts of fork oil. What are you using for oil lately?
Unless you are changing out the springs, no need to remove the springs to change out bushings or seals. David Yep I know about that shortcut. I have progressive springs. Not going to mess with the internals |
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yrunvs
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« Reply #5 on: May 10, 2021, 05:44:19 PM » |
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How about a do's and the don'ts of the process when you finish up with any helplful hints to boot?
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I'm no gynecologist but hey I'll take a look!
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #6 on: May 10, 2021, 06:05:02 PM » |
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How about a do's and the don'ts of the process when you finish up with any helplful hints to boot?
Ok. I’ll try |
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matt
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« Reply #7 on: May 10, 2021, 07:38:35 PM » |
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Hey Jeff, not hard to do, I have done a few valkyrie fork rebuilds. One suggestion I would make is after you loosen top clamp triple tree and before loosening lower clamps loosen top caps on forks
Matt
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #8 on: May 10, 2021, 07:47:12 PM » |
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Hey Jeff, not hard to do, I have done a few valkyrie fork rebuilds. One suggestion I would make is after you loosen top clamp triple tree and before loosening lower clamps loosen top caps on forks
Matt
Yep loosen the caps and pop the dust covers down while it’s on the bike, |
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RonW
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« Reply #9 on: May 10, 2021, 09:36:16 PM » |
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The damper rod protrudes above the locknut. Keep track or measure the length of the protruding threads for reassembly. Those threads screws into the fork cap. It suppose to be equal on both forks, otherwise sumpthing. Another tidbit is the 14mm locknut is a narrow fit and people have used the thin 14mm spanner in the tool kit to get in there. You have to hold the locknut from spinning to take off the fork cap. Pics from https://tech.bareasschoppers.com/suspension/fork-spring-replacement-vtx-1800/. 1800 forks, but identical to a Valk.    |
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« Last Edit: May 10, 2021, 09:41:37 PM by RonW »
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2000 Valkyrie Tourer
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #10 on: May 11, 2021, 05:33:56 AM » |
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All this help is great, thanks everyone. Makes me feel like I made the right decision to tackle this myself. I’ll take lots of pictures especially if I do something strange and exciting who knows. Lol
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« Reply #11 on: May 11, 2021, 05:53:12 AM » |
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F6Dave
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« Reply #12 on: May 11, 2021, 07:05:27 AM » |
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For everyone's reference, here's a post from the old VRCC board by Chet. It quickly and concisely explains the procedure, with all the shortcuts. I've shared this dozens of times and still get asked for it. It's now 15 years old!  |
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16770
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #13 on: May 11, 2021, 07:22:36 AM » |
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #14 on: May 11, 2021, 07:36:27 AM » |
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I don’t think I’ll be able to change the oil in the dampener rod. Just gonna pour out what comes out of the lower tube and replace with new oil same amount that came out |
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Bagger John - #3785
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« Reply #15 on: May 12, 2021, 07:49:52 AM » |
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At a VRCC Tech Session for the Ohio gang, I did 3 complete fork jobs in one day.
Bones' '97 Tourer "Violet" got new seals, a set of Progressive springs and new oil. We used 10w synthetic (Bel-Ray) and added a little less per leg than spec'd. Combined rider/passenger/gear weight was around 350lbs; he and Nancy (Wicked Wanda) were happy with the way the bike rode afterwards.
Max's '00 I/S got new seals, springs and oil. He was a big (6'5"; 290lbs) guy and we went with 20w and Progressive springs. It stiffened the bike up a bit but Max preferred a taut ride - he spent a lot of time on twisties.
Shaggy's '97 Standard got new seals and oil. We stayed with 7.5w per Honda (he's a smaller guy) and I spent considerable time stoning out rust pits on his lower fork tubes. Some of Nancy's clear nail polish sealed the deal and as far as I know the repair is still holding.
Make sure you cover the edges of the legs with plastic tape or thin plastic sheet (Cling-Wrap, etc) before pushing the new seals over them, and I always lube the tubes, seals, etc when sliding the seals on. You don't want anything picking or tearing a seal edge.
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #16 on: May 30, 2021, 01:23:16 PM » |
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Looks like my fork job is delayed. I did the seal mate thing while I was waiting for parts and the forks are still bone dry. Like if they were this dry and shiny after the rebuild I would be happy. Don’t know how long it will last but for Mirimar I can’t see fixing something that’s not broken.
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« Last Edit: June 09, 2021, 02:30:14 PM by Chrisj CMA »
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