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Author Topic: Clutch problem. Need advice.  (Read 1439 times)
FLAVALK
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Posts: 2699


Winter Springs, Florida


« on: August 10, 2021, 09:28:07 AM »

Hi all,

I have a ‘98 tourer with 64k miles. I had a local shop replace the clutch about 2,000 miles ago and all was well for awhile. Suddenly I started having the following problem. After the bike sits overnight I start it in neutral and kick it into 1st gear, the bike lurches and dies…just like I never pulled in the clutch lever. After that I can start it up and it shifts fine for the rest of the day. It only does this one time after the bike sits overnight. So it seems that the clutch discs are sticking. Recently I have flushed/rebuilt the clutch master cylinder and bled it to death. I also changed the oil when I rebuilt the MC. The slave cylinder has never been rebuilt. My work around for now is to start the bike in neutral and shift it into 2nd gear so the lurch isn’t as dramatic. Or, I shift it into 2nd, disengage the clutch and start it but result is the same. Anyone have a solution?
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Live From Sunny Winter Springs Florida via Huntsville Alabama
Bagger John - #3785
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Posts: 1952



« Reply #1 on: August 10, 2021, 09:35:54 AM »

Start with the simple things.

Rebuild or swap the slave cylinder and rebuild the clutch master cylinder. Fill with fresh brake fluid, bleed properly. See if the problem persists.

Did the shop use OEM friction discs or another brand (such as Barnett)?
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FLAVALK
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Posts: 2699


Winter Springs, Florida


« Reply #2 on: August 10, 2021, 09:42:39 AM »

Start with the simple things.

Rebuild or swap the slave cylinder and rebuild the clutch master cylinder. Fill with fresh brake fluid, bleed properly. See if the problem persists.

Did the shop use OEM friction discs or another brand (such as Barnett)?

I just rebuilt the MC and the fluid is new. I bled about 1/2 quart of fluid through  it. I can’t say what discs they used. I may try rebuilding the slave.
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Live From Sunny Winter Springs Florida via Huntsville Alabama
FLAVALK
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Posts: 2699


Winter Springs, Florida


« Reply #3 on: August 10, 2021, 09:50:30 AM »

Forgot to mention….if I start it and let it warm up for 5 minutes it’s shifts fine.
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Live From Sunny Winter Springs Florida via Huntsville Alabama
Bagger John - #3785
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Posts: 1952



« Reply #4 on: August 10, 2021, 10:24:17 AM »

Forgot to mention….if I start it and let it warm up for 5 minutes it’s shifts fine.
Thermal expansion of the clutch assembly is relieving spring pressure just enough...

Try the slave cylinder next. If the problem persists, I'd suspect the clutch pack. That shop did know the difference between "A" and "B" friction plates, I hope...?
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Steel cowboy
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Moving ahead so life won’t pass me by.

Spring Hill, Fl.


« Reply #5 on: August 10, 2021, 10:46:33 AM »

What brand oil did you go with in the engine. Try and remember at what point since your working on it, the issue started. If you have air in the line, when you depress the clutch handle your not putting enough pressure on the clutch slave cylinder to release the clutch. An internal leaking slave cylinder might be letting in air, the idling might warm it up enough to seal the unit.
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FLAVALK
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Posts: 2699


Winter Springs, Florida


« Reply #6 on: August 10, 2021, 11:24:22 AM »

Forgot to mention….if I start it and let it warm up for 5 minutes it’s shifts fine.
Thermal expansion of the clutch assembly is relieving spring pressure just enough...

Try the slave cylinder next. If the problem persists, I'd suspect the clutch pack. That shop did know the difference between "A" and "B" friction plates, I hope...?

They’re a reputable shop but I suppose it’s possible. I’ll do the slave cylinder and report back. Thanks
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Live From Sunny Winter Springs Florida via Huntsville Alabama
FLAVALK
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Posts: 2699


Winter Springs, Florida


« Reply #7 on: August 10, 2021, 11:28:03 AM »

What brand oil did you go with in the engine. Try and remember at what point since your working on it, the issue started. If you have air in the line, when you depress the clutch handle your not putting enough pressure on the clutch slave cylinder to release the clutch. An internal leaking slave cylinder might be letting in air, the idling might warm it up enough to seal the unit.

I’ve used Rotella T for years but this time I used a full synthetic motorcycle specific oil 10w-40. But the problem started before the oil change.
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Live From Sunny Winter Springs Florida via Huntsville Alabama
-mike-
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Germany


« Reply #8 on: August 10, 2021, 11:36:26 AM »

I'd bet sticky friction plate pads when sitting for some times/when cold.
Some aftermarket brands are well known for that issue.
Changing the oil brand may help to reduce it.

Best to use OEM.

-mike-
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gordonv
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VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #9 on: August 10, 2021, 05:13:35 PM »

Motor oil.

Mine used to do this slightly, bang when started/in gear, like it was grabbing.

One oil change hasn't changed it all out. Start in neutral? Change the oil back to your Rotella T?

See if you can live with it till the next oil change or not.
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Willow
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Excessive comfort breeds weakness. PttP

Olathe, KS


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« Reply #10 on: August 10, 2021, 05:39:42 PM »

Wet clutch.  One of mine does that regularly if I start it in neutral and shift cold.  Usually I don't experience that lurch as I start in gear with my foot  on the rear brake.
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FLAVALK
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Posts: 2699


Winter Springs, Florida


« Reply #11 on: August 10, 2021, 06:19:34 PM »

Thanks everyone. I appreciate the feedback.
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Live From Sunny Winter Springs Florida via Huntsville Alabama
..
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Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #12 on: August 11, 2021, 09:32:57 AM »

FWIW when i want to engage first gear after the bike has been sitting a while I'll squeeze/release the clutch lever 5 times.

Why 5?

I have no idea. Just seems like a number to use.
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