Right Fork Assembly.

[hueco]

Replacing seals. Trying to assembly right fork. Any tips on how to hold fork damper up while pushing spring collar down and installing spring seat stopper. Seems like a two person job. Manual says. Attach a two feet length of mechanic's wire (whatever that is) to the lock nut on damper rod. Pull damper rod up and install spring collar. While pushing the spring collar down install the spring seat stopper. Remove mechanics wire. Sounds super easy right? Not. I tried using some wire I had but it was too big diameter. Any one help.

[RonW]

[edited] I wrote on removing the stopper by mistake when it's reinstalling it.

this is what I remember. Pry up on the locknut with a flatblade screwdriver using the spring collar's circumference as a fulcrum. You might have to fish the damper rod up far enough to gain purchase, I forget.

You'll gain a free hand with the screwdriver holding the locknut at the right elevation while the screwdriver is also pushing down on the spring collar tube in the same motion. Either that or tie the damper rod to the ceiling to keep it from telescoping back down. The spring seat stopper is slotted to slip in pass the screwdriver (arrows). You could use your knee to pull the spring collar tube down with something like in the second photo.

[hueco]

Thanks, RonW. I fangled it and got er done. Now I have another problem that will the subject of my next thread.

[RonW]

I'm remembering more. I ended up tie-wiring the damper rod to the ceiling allowing one hand to push the spring collar down and the other hand to slip in the spring seat under the locknut. If the damper rod only stayed up on its own. Thanks for the memories.

[..]

Photos got out of sequence

https://postimg.cc/gallery/7ZQt2pj

[98valk]

lower the front of the bike allowing the tire to push the fork internals up.

[Warlock]

Unless you are going to replace the springs or check them you do not have to remove the springs to change the bushings or seals.
David

[RonW]

The right fork doesn't require the special tool like the left fork. So minus well just remove the right fork to replace oil seals. The right fork has that glitch the subject of this thread. The simplest solution is to tie the end of the *damper rod* to the ceiling. When you do your right fork, you'd understand.

 

[Warlock]

The right fork doesn't require the special tool like the left fork. So minus well just remove the right fork to replace oil seals. The right fork has that glitch the subject of this thread. The simplest solution is to tie the end of the *damper rod* to the ceiling. When you do your right fork, you'd understand.

 

I have rebuild about 20 sets over the years and I well understand how it works. I just rebuilt ed Rams forks 2 weeks ago. I built some tools just to do the right side without fighting it to replace the spring.
David

[hueco]

Unless you are going to replace the springs or check them you do not have to remove the springs to change the bushings or seals.
David

Please explain further. Pictures would be helpful for us dummies.

[RonW]

Glad you fixed the original snag, hueco. Inner fork tubes can be pulled down and out from the outer fork tubes as pic below without removing the outer fork tube.




The left side fork has a *fork bolt*. Somebody realized that the fork bolt's O.D. was less than the I.D. of the outer fork, so it's possible to pull the inner fork assembly down and out of the Left outer tube without the removing the fork bolt which requires the Honda tool. This method has limitations though. It makes it possible to change seals. Whereas upgrading to Progessive fork springs won't be possible since the fork bolt captures the fork spring. Fork bolt is screwed to the top of the inner fork tube with the fork spring below it. Even with the Honda tool, some prefer this option. It can get messy if you're not careful.

[hueco]

Thanks for all the advice Ron. This is my first time taking forks apart. Wasn't as bad as what I thought it was going to be. I made the 'special tool' out of a old fork tube and socket and seal driver from PVC pipe. The hardest part was that pesky damper rod.    Once I got it tied off and anchored. Piece of cake.

[RonW]

hueco, do me a favor and go over to Dags Norway website and read over the procedure. I had some errors above mainly you still need to remove the *fork bolt* on the Left fork in the process..... or how would you refill the oil so on.

Also, while the forks were apart, perhaps you should have installed Progressive springs. Almost everybody who's done the upgrade has raved about the improved handling. The few who disagreed their reason was due to the slight stiffness that Progressive springs adds to the ride. The advantages are Progress springs reduce dive on braking and improve traction while sweeping turns ..... "the best dollar for dollar return on investment." (bareass).

The good thing is you don't have to remove the forks and start all over again. Simply take off the fork caps and practically plop in the Progress springs as described on Bareass forums. The link describes a 1800vtx but same as a Valk.

[hueco]