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Author Topic: filters instead of V-stacks  (Read 3860 times)
santa
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Santa Tom

Ardmore, Alabama


« on: January 12, 2010, 06:16:12 PM »

What, how and where. What filters do you use instead of buying V-stacks and how do I install them. What are my options.

Santa
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ssober
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Oklahoma


« Reply #1 on: January 12, 2010, 07:57:38 PM »

Vatozone specials, cut the bottom off and double stick tape
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Warlock
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« Reply #2 on: January 12, 2010, 08:34:27 PM »

What, how and where. What filters do you use instead of buying V-stacks and how do I install them. What are my options.

Santa
Got mine at Auto Zone. The only thing I did was remove the rubber plug from the bottom, put silicone on top of the carb covers and let them dry. Mine are on there pretty good.
David
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Cattman
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Franklin, IN


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« Reply #3 on: January 13, 2010, 05:21:51 AM »

Same as above with LED's . 

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art
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Grants Pass,Or

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« Reply #4 on: January 13, 2010, 04:37:48 PM »

I did the same with silicone but put them on top of the stacks
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santa
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Santa Tom

Ardmore, Alabama


« Reply #5 on: January 13, 2010, 09:25:34 PM »

Thanks guys

Santa
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X Ring
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VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #6 on: January 14, 2010, 04:36:27 AM »

Same as above with LED's . 




How would you get them to flash as if they were in sync with the firing of the cylinder?

Marty
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RP#62
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Gilbert, AZ


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« Reply #7 on: January 14, 2010, 04:56:48 AM »

Same as above with LED's . 



How would you get them to flash as if they were in sync with the firing of the cylinder?

Marty

I built a module that does that based on the tach signal.
-RP
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X Ring
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VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

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« Reply #8 on: January 14, 2010, 07:31:29 AM »

Same as above with LED's . 



How would you get them to flash as if they were in sync with the firing of the cylinder?

Marty

I built a module that does that based on the tach signal.
-RP

Can you tell me how?

Marty
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Fathertime
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Washington County, New York


« Reply #9 on: January 14, 2010, 02:46:23 PM »

That there looks almost as good as a set of V-Stacks.  And I'll bet a whole lot cheaper!

Cattman, where did you run the string of Blue LED's?  The way you have your engine lit up is almost exactly how I want to do mine. 

Along the line of LED's, anybody ever use the type that clamp on the sparkler wires?  Do they really light up or is it a waste of time?  What about drain from the ignition pulse?  I believe those units get their power from induction (like the old fashioned timing lights) do they make any difference in powering the plugs?
« Last Edit: January 14, 2010, 02:50:53 PM by Fathertime » Logged
RP#62
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Gilbert, AZ


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« Reply #10 on: January 14, 2010, 04:31:31 PM »

Same as above with LED's . 



How would you get them to flash as if they were in sync with the firing of the cylinder?

Marty

I built a module that does that based on the tach signal.
-RP

Can you tell me how?

Marty


Feed the tach signal to the clock input of a decade counter IC.  Connect 6 of the outputs of the decade counter to the bases of 6 NPN transistors.  Arrange them in firing order. Use the transistors to "turn on" each LED.  You'll need to use Schottky diodes to clamp the tach signal to the input voltage to keep from burning up the decade counter IC.
-RP
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Cattman
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« Reply #11 on: January 15, 2010, 06:07:41 AM »

That there looks almost as good as a set of V-Stacks.  And I'll bet a whole lot cheaper!

Cattman, where did you run the string of Blue LED's?  The way you have your engine lit up is almost exactly how I want to do mine. 

Along the line of LED's, anybody ever use the type that clamp on the sparkler wires?  Do they really light up or is it a waste of time?  What about drain from the ignition pulse?  I believe those units get their power from induction (like the old fashioned timing lights) do they make any difference in powering the plugs?

One 3 lite led on front of choke cover, one on backplate of carb bank, one behind the fuel side cover and a 4 lite pod in the top of the radiator pod, and a 8 lite string on the bottom frame rail behind the exhaust.
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woefman
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« Reply #12 on: January 18, 2010, 12:55:43 PM »

Wow RP

I'm in Az as Well , I would love to see that in Action if I can meet you sometime.

« Last Edit: January 18, 2010, 09:14:05 PM by woefman » Logged

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partsiam
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« Reply #13 on: June 03, 2011, 10:22:44 PM »

Hey RP - you wrote;

"Feed the tach signal to the clock input of a decade counter IC.  Connect 6 of the outputs of the decade counter to the bases of 6 NPN transistors.  Arrange them in firing order. Use the transistors to "turn on" each LED.  You'll need to use Schottky diodes to clamp the tach signal to the input voltage to keep from burning up the decade counter IC.
-RP"

I've been looking for a way to do exactly this. I found the other thread that you posted in regarding this but everyone was leaning towards flashing led's instead of using a signal to fire the led's. I also like the idea of being able to flip a switch to have them on steady at a show, or just off (in case the local gendarmes don't appreciate them). Bit much to ask for?

Well, I'm not totally inept at this but it's been quite a while since I've worked with electronic components and circuitry. I'd like to recreate what you've done. Would it be possible for you to put (or do you already have) a schematic with a parts list and instructions together to post or send to me? I'd be willing to pay you for your time.

How big was the controller and where did you hide it?


Thanks!

Bob in Billerica, MA
Y2K IS - Saphira
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Bob in Billerica, MA - USA
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RP#62
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Gilbert, AZ


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« Reply #14 on: June 04, 2011, 06:20:17 AM »

I machined an enclosure for it.  Its about 2" x 2" x 3/4".  I put it in the battery box area.
-RP
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BonS
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Blue Springs, MO


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« Reply #15 on: June 04, 2011, 06:29:09 AM »

Does the tach signal pulse once for every crank revolution or twice? Since it's a wasted spark ignition might you need a divider to avoid a 2X LED firing rate?
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