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Author Topic: Airbox refitting. What a palaver!  (Read 1824 times)
Knapdog
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South Wales, UK


« on: November 16, 2021, 08:12:12 AM »

Well I've seen the videos where it's been a bit of a pain refitting the airbox but I didn't think it was going to be as frustrating as this.
Funnily enough I didn't have too much of a problem fitting the three hoses but the six "legs" are a right pain in the 4rse. They're only about 10mm away and I can't put enough downward pressure for them to sit without springing back up.
I'm also concerned I may have slightly punctured the main hose going up with my small Phillips screwdriver.
I'll get there in the end but what a faff.



 Should they be perpendicular or at a very slight lean like mine? The box can't go any farther forward due to the rear bolt attachment.



« Last Edit: November 16, 2021, 08:42:46 AM by Knapdog » Logged

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Stoughton, Wisconsin


« Reply #1 on: November 16, 2021, 08:36:59 AM »

I hope you are putting the air box in without the cover on or the filter inside.
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Knapdog
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South Wales, UK


« Reply #2 on: November 16, 2021, 08:40:09 AM »

I hope you are putting the air box in without the cover on or the filter inside.

Yes. I'm OK on that score.

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« Reply #3 on: November 16, 2021, 08:54:04 AM »

Is the tab on the frame at the rear of the box interfering with the box going forward and down.
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Knapdog
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South Wales, UK


« Reply #4 on: November 16, 2021, 09:03:46 AM »

Can't see a problem with the tab but not satisfied I've now taken the box off to have a rethink.
Do these red arrowed cut outs have to be positioned in any way, BTW?

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« Reply #5 on: November 16, 2021, 09:09:16 AM »

The tab on the top of the rubber tube needs to be in between the two plastic tabs on the air box. Yours look like they are turned.
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Knapdog
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South Wales, UK


« Reply #6 on: November 16, 2021, 09:27:20 AM »

The tab on the top of the rubber tube needs to be in between the two plastic tabs on the air box. Yours look like they are turned.

Ah. I think I know what you mean. Very well spotted. Hope it will make a difference when I have another go in the morning. Thank you, Aventi.
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mello dude
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Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole

Dayton Ohio


« Reply #7 on: November 16, 2021, 03:18:06 PM »

Having done this recently....couple ideas...
- Spray some WD40 on your finger and wipe it on the inside of the lower end of the intakes. Or I have wire pull lube, that works well.

- Do the install minus the clamps so there is no interference. Add back after everything is on correctly. Looks like on one of your photos, the clamps are hitting a hose and the choke cable gear.

- The clutch hose/tube gets in the way. Watch out to get it clear, so it's not catching a airbox edge.

- There may be a stubborn one, that comes close but won't set home. On those, I added the clamp loose enough to push the intake home from the top, and as I holding it home tighten the clamp. Somewhat fumbly but I got it. I'm sure a helper would be better.

Good luck, I know it's not fun!

« Last Edit: November 16, 2021, 03:26:04 PM by mello dude » Logged

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John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #8 on: November 16, 2021, 03:29:34 PM »

No need to remove the hose clamps, just loosen enough to slip them upward onto the main tubes above where they clamping area is. Then turn the screw section to the rear(inward) so they don't catch on anything as you're installing the box. Once you have the airbox generally in place but needs to go down, install the filter and lid, then lay a short piece of 2x4 on the lid and lay a ratchet strap over it, hooking it on the engine guards on either side. You can then ratchet it down and hold the box in place while checking to be sure the tubes aren't curled under anywhere. Once fully down and in place, tighten the hose clamps in place and release the ratchet strap. The box stays put...rememer to insert the bolt at the rear first. Using the strap allows you to have two hands free to work the intake tubes as needed. The tubes that go into the bottom of the box can be reinstalled once the box is in place...just take your time. I don't use the wire clip on them, they're not going anywhere once in place.
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pancho
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Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #9 on: November 16, 2021, 06:32:14 PM »

It looks like the airbox is dead against the wiring harnesses and radiator overflow hose that runs down the  inside of the right side of the frame. See if you can move that stuff around to give yourself some clearance.   
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mello dude
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Dayton Ohio


« Reply #10 on: November 16, 2021, 06:33:34 PM »

I like the ratchet strap idea, have to try that next time.

I just found working without the clamps in place was easier than trying to keep them out of the way while working....

 Cool
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Knapdog
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South Wales, UK


« Reply #11 on: November 17, 2021, 12:05:59 AM »


But what I’m really curious about is, what the hell is a palaver ?  Huh?

 Cool

A common phrase in UK.  Emphasis is on the 2nd syllable and pronounced "puh- la-vuh"  Smiley



« Last Edit: November 17, 2021, 12:16:03 AM by Knapdog » Logged

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steveB (VRCC UK)
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« Reply #12 on: November 17, 2021, 01:42:03 AM »

May be wrong but zooming in - you appear to have the rear airbox fitting behind the frame tab, it should be in front.
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RonW
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Newport Beach


« Reply #13 on: November 17, 2021, 03:46:26 AM »

..... May be wrong but zooming in - you appear to have the rear airbox fitting behind the frame tab, it should be in front.

Maybe right

Even if the air tubes are rotated (second pic), that alone won't square them up enough for the tubes to seat flush on the carbs (last pic). The airbox has to be shifted front to square up the tubes.










« Last Edit: November 17, 2021, 07:41:27 AM by RonW » Logged

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Knapdog
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South Wales, UK


« Reply #14 on: November 17, 2021, 06:39:53 AM »

 I now have the airbox in front of the tab. I believe previously I'd slotted the tab in to the airbox.....

image hosting free

They are now sitting more or less upright though ideally I'd still want the airbox a few mm. lower.
After tightening you can see that the one above carb #2 has moved up...



It's the same on carb #1 on the right..



The airbox can't go any lower as it's already touching that small bent pipe on top of the thingy in the middle on the carb cage.
I presume that if one of the six airbox legs pops off then the tuning is going to be all over the shop or do I actually need to be concerned if they're not sitting perfectly?
I have considered taking the airbox out again and the carb cage and reinstalling to see if there is any gain.

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steveB (VRCC UK)
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« Reply #15 on: November 17, 2021, 07:39:20 AM »

Remove airbox and gently smear inside intakes with Pure Silicone Grease, as used by plumbers when pushing plastic waste pipe together. Ease the intake rubbers down bit at a time alternating between rubbers and sides. The rubbers need to be snugged down on the intake flange. I check as I go with small mirror around the back of the rubbers as they can distort into the intake flange. They will fit just take your time. All the rubbers need to be fitted snug on the carbs (and not riding up) otherwise carburation will be affected causing pops and bangs on overrun.
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #16 on: November 17, 2021, 07:55:53 AM »

I’ll be doing some carb work this winter. I’ll be taking the carb bank out. What if only one side of intake manifolds are installed. A block of wood holding the other side up a tad higher than normal. That way the Airbox tubes should be easier to install. Then once properly tightened you should be able to to pull the bank down to the intakes once installed. I’m going to try that.
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RonW
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Newport Beach


« Reply #17 on: November 17, 2021, 08:22:19 AM »

I use a mirror to inspect that the backside of the tubes aren't hung up (pic below). I use an inexpensive hose pick to facilitate installation.





As steveB stated, "The rubbers need to be snugged down on the intake flange," (red X).


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Knapdog
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South Wales, UK


« Reply #18 on: November 17, 2021, 08:27:46 AM »

Well the manifolds don't move. The carb cradle sits on the manifold so that doesn't move so the airbox should fit unless something is in the way.
BTW, I've just realised there's a scoop underneath the airbox so the airbox can't be resting on that little pipe thingy.
For that reason I'm going to try John's ratchet job.
Thank you again for your inputs.
The language in my garage remains "blue" for hopefully only a short period more.
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pancho
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Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #19 on: November 17, 2021, 09:55:48 AM »

Look at the front right corner of the airbox,  when the wiring harnesses are out of the way, it will go into place.
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Knapdog
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South Wales, UK


« Reply #20 on: November 17, 2021, 10:41:11 AM »



Looks like job done ✔

They seem to be seated quite nicely compared to when I started.



I'm inclined to agree with Pancho in that the problem could well have been the wiring harness at the front right.
Thanks for all your help.
That has to be my Probationary Period now over. A devilish task.  Evil Cheesy
« Last Edit: November 17, 2021, 11:37:44 AM by Knapdog » Logged

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RonW
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Newport Beach


« Reply #21 on: November 17, 2021, 01:33:03 PM »

you should get a set of JIS screwdrivers.

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RonW
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Newport Beach


« Reply #22 on: November 17, 2021, 01:56:51 PM »

What if only one side of intake manifolds are installed. A block of wood holding the other side up a tad higher than normal. That way the Airbox tubes should be easier to install. Then once properly tightened you should be able to to pull the bank down to the intakes once installed. I’m going to try that.


You could just press down on the airbox with the rubber tubes resting on their respective carbs. This flares the tubes out in both directions until you find the docking angle.
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CoreyP
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Bluffton, SC


« Reply #23 on: November 17, 2021, 09:02:15 PM »

This is not a brute force type of thing. Have some finesse.

I did this not long ago and it's a matter of looking at what is hitting. It came out, it can good back in.

Run your fingers around each hose to make sure it isn't curled up somewhere. That's really the only problem I had once I got the air box forward enough. 
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