Ceramic blades purpose seems to be to provide a really sharp edge for those who are sharpen challenged. Not meant as an insult to anyone. I haven't gone there as I am experienced at sharpening procedures with multiple methods. And I know I would have to pamper the ceramic knife or break it - while steel is more durable. Generally I go for quick sharpening methods. For kitchen knives, a good working edge is provided by 3 swipes with an Accusharp tool. It has 2 carbide cutters inside that provide 4 fresh changes when they wear down which takes quite some time. This sharpener will provide a shaving edge with the right angle for deer-butchering or kitchen work in less than a minute.
Like this:
If I want a sharper edge or with a different angle, I use 2 grades of grit on 1" belt sanders, using a MEASURED angle, and followed by honing on a high speed buffer with 2 buffer wheels with 2 grades of polishing rouge. I also resharpen box cutter edges in seconds with the buffer. MUCH faster than changing the blades, and just as sharp. I sometimes put the edge on with the Accusharp, then hone it on the buffer - if I want an edge sharper than the Accusharp alone provides. Again, not usually as the Accusharp provides a good kitchen edge and in seconds.
I have a Solingen German steel for re-aligning the edge if needed. Used to use it frequently. Now I usually just take a couple swipes with the accusharp. This is not with high dollar chef's or butcher's knives, just working kitchen knives, like Chicago Cutlery grade. I also have some "steels" that are actually round files; one of them is diamond impregnated. Don't use them anymore.
Generally, describing the sharpen procedure is as follows. The angle selected for the purpose, and held accurately is most important. Use your stone to grind one side to that angle, until a burr curls up on the other side of the edge. You can grind in both directions and use heavy pressure. Water / lube not needed. Don't heat up the edge, that will damage the temper. That provides a flat side to the edge - as it was worn down to a rounded curve. Now turn the blade over and do the same to the other side until the burr curls up. You can see it in a bright light or feel it with your fingernail. Now clean the dust off the stone or switch to a fine grain stone. BTW, diamond stones work faster. Using reducing pressure, cut into the stone, keeping the angle the same, alternate sides and strokes until you remove the burr. Finish with a strop or buffer wheel with polishing rouge, pulled away from the edge. Can start with heavier pressure and reduce to very little. I use two buffer wheels, with first cut then finishing rouge. Do not mix rouge on the wheels. This procedure will create a straight razor grade edge in 5 minutes from dull.
You can see the methods explained on Modern Marvels, World's Sharpest on you tube. Cutco's methods are a good demonstration. Though I'm not finding the episode now.
