Fork knock...Oil change maybe?

[Knapdog]

I've noticed I've got the occasional knock coming from the front forks somehow. Initially I thought it might be the fork shield knocking against the wind deflector accessories that are on there but I took them off and the knock is still there.
After watching a YouTube video by Raymore Repair on the subject of rebuilding the forks ( he also has a video for left fork) ....,

https://youtu.be/Vcur--zo-XY

........ , I thought I'd have a go.
This may, of course, not sort out the knocking, but after 24 years then the forks could probably do with new oil and seals anyway.
I know there'll be some who'll advise changing the springs to Progressive, while I'm at it, but I'll stick with what I've got for now and see if there's an improvement.
Which particular oil do I need to keep the bike standard?
Has anyone else had that " knock" symptom and do you think I'm going down the right road?

[Jess from VA]

Front end noises can often be the brakes.  The pads are supposed to float, but sometimes they clunk.

It can also be the rubber pad damper glued under the front fender, trying to come off.

It could also be a loose radiator (top?) mount.

[Knapdog]

Front end noises can often be the brakes.  The pads are supposed to float, but sometimes they clunk.

It can also be the rubber pad damper glued under the front fender, trying to come off.

It could also be a loose radiator (top?) mount.

Thanks. I'll check your suggestions.
The noise is a proper clunk, nothing tinny or rubbery, but a clear "tok" sort of sound if you can imagine it.

[sandy]

The standard oil is a 10 weight.

[GWS]

A hard clunking noise would make me check out the wheel bearing first, for safety's sake.

[RonW]

Bareass at bareasschoppers.com theorized that the clunk might be caused by an improperly installed washer (joint plate). The washer isn't laying flat.

"Some folks have reported a “clunk” sound from their forks after swapping springs. It’s my opinion that this clunk may be caused by joint plates [washer] that were
improperly installed. You’ll be able to see how easy it is to accidentally flip the joint plate [washer] on its side when you’re dropping it into place."





If you like, you can read the discussion here (scroll half way down). I don't know why the washer (joint plate) wouldn't self-level by itself, but perhaps it doesn't. The suggested
way to install the washer is to lower the spring about an inch into the fork tube then place the washer flat on the top of the spring, then lower the two items as a unit insuring
the washer stays flat ..... instead of dropping the washer in there, see here. You use a hook for this or a wire with a hook bent on the end. Note: this was about VT1800 forks but
the Valk fork internals are the same. I've had the *clunk* myself but don't remember whether it was after installing progressive springs or new brake pads.

[Knapdog]

Bareass at bareasschoppers.com theorized that the clunk might be caused by an improperly installed washer (joint plate). The washer isn't laying flat.

"Some folks have reported a “clunk” sound from their forks after swapping springs. It’s my opinion that this clunk may be caused by joint plates [washer] that were
improperly installed. You’ll be able to see how easy it is to accidentally flip the joint plate [washer] on its side when you’re dropping it into place."





If you like, you can read the discussion here (scroll half way down). I don't know why the washer (joint plate) wouldn't self-level by itself, but perhaps it doesn't. The suggested
way to install the washer is to lower the spring about an inch into the fork tube then place the washer flat on the top of the spring, then lower the two items as a unit insuring
the washer stays flat ..... instead of dropping the washer in there, see here. You use a hook for this or a wire with a hook bent on the end. Note: this was about VT1800 forks but
the Valk fork internals are the same. I've had the *clunk* myself but don't remember whether it was after installing progressive springs or new brake pads.

Very much appreciated,  Ron. I wouldn't be at all surprised if that's what it is.
I shall report back once I'm up and about. I'm on Day 5 of Covid at the moment and isolating until I get a Negative test. First two days weren't good but I'm fine.
I don't know if you've seen that youtube video I've mentioned in my previous post by Raymore Repair, but if you have, bearing in mind I haven't removed the forks before, would you say it's a good video to follow ? Apologies to Raymore. No offence. I'm only a novice tapping in on the experts.

BTW, I've just followed those links you gave me. Very useful indeed. Thank you. Diolch.

[RonW]

Take care, your health is the most important thing.

You need a tool for item 11 on the left side fork. You might inquire on what other members used. You'll notice that Raymore Repair skipped over installing item 11, I assume because he didn't have an improvised tool, here. It's just a large castle nut, but threads in a few inches deep in the outer tube not easily accessible with punches. It has its own threads below the threads for the fork cap. NorthStarRiders has a video series on VT1800 forks (internals same as a Valk), here.

[Valker]

I’ve seen people forget to screw #14 into #18 before reassembly also.

[Knapdog]

You need a tool for item 11 on the left side fork.

Hmm. I'm beginning to wonder if I'll be able to manage this then, without the tool and the only castle nut I have is one end of my wheel axle bolt on my C90.  

Do you have a part number for the tool so I can price it up please?

[RonW]

Some members have made the oem tool from a tool used to remove a water heater element (1½ inch hex nut, $8). The round end (pic below) is the same size as the
left fork's castle nut while the hex end is used to turn it with a socket. The castle nut isn't hexagonal. You actually can make it by slotting a socket but it's thicker and
harder material. 07VMA-MZ0010A




Oem tool.

[Knapdog]

Some members have made the oem tool from a tool used to remove a water heater element (1½ inch hex nut, $8). The round end (pic below) is the same size as the
left fork's castle nut while the hex end is used to turn it with a socket. The castle nut isn't hexagonal. You actually can make it by slotting a socket but it's thicker and
harder material. 07VMA-MZ0010A




Oem tool.

Again, extremely helpful, Ron. Top man. Thank you.

[Knapdog]

One thing, and sorry to sound a bit thick, but regarding this tipped over washer, could this happen on both forks, or left or right?

[RonW]

Negative, only the Left fork.

That said, the Right fork has its own *washer* which you might fumble around with. Notes, here.

[Knapdog]

Well, your replies are much appreciated and everything is pointing to the displaced washer as the cause of the knock.
I can live with the noise but I'd rather get it done and change the oil and seals whilst I'm at it.
The problem I'm now faced with is it's not as straightforward as it should be as I simply don't have the specialist tools required.
I normally don't shy away from these problems and usually find the solution with a hammer and a chisel  , but I don't want to strip the forks and find I wished I hadn't started.
These bikes are getting on a little bit and I haven't got a great deal of confidence in the local Honda dealer having seen one before  .
Ah well, there's only way to find out but it can wait a month or two....

[RonW]

The special tool isn't necessary for changing seals or for refilling oil. The outer fork tube's I.D. is slightly larger diameter than the castle nut thusly you can pull the inner tube out of the outer tube. The castle nut assy is part of the inner tube.

When you put the front wheel together, there's differing opinions on which side pinch bolts should be tightened last. The manual states to tighten the Right pinch bolts last after bouncing the front end to 'seat' the front axle. 'Seat' isn't the proper term. Cracker Jack makes a convincing argument that contrary to the manual, the Left pinch bolts instead should be tightened last, here, (half way down the paragraph). The reason that one side pinch bolts is left loose *while bouncing the bike* is so the axle is free to move laterally to the make the forks parallel to each other.

If you're interested in these kind of things, there's an incision on the front axle that is supposedly there for alignment purposes. I think Rio Wil discovered this, so credit to him.