Carb Sync - Vaccum tubes and caps

[TrapperAH1G]

Got my digi and prepping to do the job.  Manual states I should have caps on 1, 2 and 5 vacuum ports and tubes on 3, 4 and 6.  NOPE.  The only vacuum line is to # 6, all the other carb vacuum ports are capped.  Now, been running pretty good for the last 20K miles since she came home with me.

What do you valkers think of this setup?

Thanks

[da prez]

It has been  desmogged.

        da prez

[TrapperAH1G]

I was hoping that was it!

Thanks

Gotta say, sync'ing with the digi sync was a breeze!  The actual sync process was the quickest part.  Getting ready, removing and attaching hoses and caps was longer, but the worst part was getting the vacuum hose on 6 and the caps on the rest.  #6 hose had to be shortened 3/8 of an inch due to crack on the end and I had to replace all the caps due to cracks.  Also found the drain hose on #1 was off.  PITA to get on.  BUT, the test ride showed me it was worth the effort.  Smooth and power is all there.  What a joy to ride!

Ride safe!

[Jess from VA]

I hope you didn't use the std crummy auto parts vacuum caps.

Several of mine blew off and/or ruptured with the heat and pressure of ordinary riding, esp freeway.

Led to some loud backfires on decel, and cars swerving to avoid perceived gunfire.

These are the good Honda ones that don't blow up.  https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/16215-MV4-000?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_KfE8fbd9wIVA-TICh1gOwe2EAQYASABEgIM__D_BwE

Carry spares on board. (not that replacing them on smoking hot intakes is fun).

[Mooskee]

Red Eye sells viton  caps and viton va uum line for #6.
https://redeye.ecrater.com/c/1086116/vacuum-line-cap-kits?sp=1

[RonW]

I've had these for a while but have yet to install them. My question is has anybody had a problem with something knocking them off due to their longer handles?

[The emperor has no clothes]

I've had these for a while but have yet to install them. My question is has anybody had a problem with something knocking them off the vaccuum caps due to their longer handles?

I have had BonS’s caps and clamps on for years (very similar) with no problems at all.

[Jess from VA]

Ron, some years ago, when Big BF serviced my bike, he didn't have any more good vac. caps left, so he used basic auto parts caps and zip-tied each one on tight.  That turned out not to matter, and they ruptured above the zip-ties, and several blew off entirely above the tip-ties.  This all happened later on the long freeway hauls to and from Asheville Inzane (from No VA); with all day high pressures and heat.

I never heard of a vacuum cap being knocked off, but they will rip and blow off, if substandard quality.    

The good Honda ones (and maybe the Red Eye ones) (with stiffer/thicker walls) are not zip tied or clamped (earlier, I was not desmogged and I just had the failing vacuum lines on them).   I had been on long trips before with no problems.

But if I'm supposed to clamp or tie them, let me know.  (anyone?)  

[RonW]

Thanks for the replies.

Jess, the clamps in the pic is from Redeye and I have his vacuum caps and also oem caps. I gather clamps are just for added security. Most caps, good material, are capable of sticking on by themselves. Since I have them I might as well use them though.

[Jess from VA]

I don't see why not.

But, I'd have a tool to remove them in my on-board bike tools.

If one blows/tears off above the clamp, you'll need it to replace one.

[TrapperAH1G]

Digi Sync supplied 5 new caps and clamps with the kit.  I couldn't figure out how to get in and use the clamps they included, so zip tied them on 'til I can get the "right" clamps like shown above.  One of the old caps had a clamp like that on, the rest were tiny versions of the same style. 

The caps are thick walled and seem good quality.  Need some for my Valk project so will order extras just in case.

Thanks all

[Savage]

Once I have successfully Digi-Sync’d a de-smogged Valk, I remove the nipples (which are normally capped off) from each intake manifold. They are threaded and remove easily. I reach through from the opposite side with a long 1/4” driver extension and 8mm deepwell socket, but it can be done with a combo wrench as well.  I then replace those threaded nipples (listed in the parts fiche as “pressure boot joint”) with 5mm bolts and crush washers. Use some medium thread locker on the threads of each.
And keep the OEM nipples in a ziploc bag for future use.

[Jess from VA]

What a great idea.  Except for carb synching, once desmogged, those things are a nuisance. 

[RonW]

I inquired a while back about replacing the nipple with a bolt. Although everybody said it was possible, nobody had actually tried it. Until now!
Btw, good tip on reaching the nipples from the opposite side of the bike.



Illustration above done with Fusion 360 cad software. The grand plan was to do the entire Valkyrie except the engine
and transmission internal parts, however either my computer can't handle the software or Fusion ain't that user friendly.

[TrapperAH1G]

I think the bolts are a great idea too.  What thread on the 5 mm bolts?

Thanks

[Jess from VA]

What would be perfect would be the regular nipple bolt, with a 90* throw ball valve for synching, and no leaking when off.  Probably not in the plumbing department though.  

[Savage]

M5-.80 x 10 bolt, 5mm washer.

[rug_burn]

Yeah, but don't you need to have the nipple in order to do the synch?
I just use short pieces of nitrile fuel line, (not EPDM rubber vacuum lines) and plug the other end with some delrin plugs I made.   A solid rivet or cut off nail, 16d, etc bolt would work as well.    And they should never blow off, since they're under vacuum, sucking them down.   Mine have lasted a long time, still there.

[Savage]

Read my post above. I get the digi-sync perfect first, then remove the nipples and install the bolts. I keep the nipples in a bag and save them to be reinstalled if a sync is needed in the future.

The intent is to completely eliminate those vacuum ports as points of leaks/failure.

[Fazer]

Bob Smith replaced all my nipples with bolts when he did his magic.  If I remember correctly, I will need to remove the bolts and re-install the nipples to sync.  Not looking forward to doing it.  It's been three years since the mod and runs great, so I have no need to sync.