Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club
June 18, 2025, 09:22:58 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Ultimate Seats Link VRCC Store
Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk : Old Tech Archive : Classifieds : Contact Staff
News: If you're new to this message board, read THIS!
 
Inzane 17
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Send this topic Print
Author Topic: Alternative to the BonS Smart Switch?  (Read 2533 times)
Pappy!
Member
*****
Posts: 5710


Central Florida - Eustis


« on: May 14, 2022, 01:29:12 PM »

Mine is toast. I like what it does and would like to replace it if it is being manufactured again.
Any info?
Logged
Savage
Member
*****
Posts: 170

United States


« Reply #1 on: May 14, 2022, 03:38:49 PM »

https://web.archive.org/web/20040207082226/http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/circuits.html
Logged

Columbia, South Carolina
MarkT
Member
*****
Posts: 5196


VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"

Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km


WWW
« Reply #2 on: May 15, 2022, 04:50:51 AM »

The "Smart Switch" is a plug and play kit of my headlight upgrade mod I designed & wrote up 24 years ago.  In this write-up, you can use standard 4 or 5 pin relays instead of the dual relay I mention there.  Any quality relay from say Autozone, around $12 last I bought them.  (I have a stock of them in my electrical supplies).  You need two, one ea for high beam & low.  (Recommend that instead of using one with 87 & 87a pins, as a toggle.)  If you have any failures, you can replace the relays from any auto parts store. I have 22 of these relays on Jade, similar on Deerslayer.  I've had ONE fail over the years, on my Rostra cruise control circuit.  I have installed this circuit on all my Valks.

http://www.horseapple.com/Valkyrie/Tech_Tips/Headlight_Upgrade/headlight_upgrade.html
« Last Edit: May 15, 2022, 04:58:36 AM by MarkT » Logged


Vietnam-474 TFW Takhli 9-12/72 Linebckr II;307 SBW U-Tapao 05/73-4
Pappy!
Member
*****
Posts: 5710


Central Florida - Eustis


« Reply #3 on: May 15, 2022, 05:39:48 AM »

Thanks guys. I purchased a couple of Panasonic mini 20A relays and will go that route.
Logged
Valkorado
Member
*****
Posts: 10491


VRCC DS 0242

Gunnison, Colorado (7,703') Here there be twisties.


« Reply #4 on: May 15, 2022, 05:58:14 AM »

I had a Smart Switch for my Interstate fry out on me after washing the bike last season.  I guess they had a common problem with that.  Mine was the "upgraded" Smart Switch with silicone, but  water still found a way to get into it.
Logged

Have you ever noticed when you're feeling really good,
there's always a pigeon that'll come sh!t on your hood?
- John Prine

97 Tourer "Silver Bullet"
01 Interstate "Ruby"

h13man
Member
*****
Posts: 1745


To everything there is an exception.

Indiana NW Central Flatlands


« Reply #5 on: May 15, 2022, 07:08:09 AM »

Mine is toast. I like what it does and would like to replace it if it is being manufactured again.
Any info?


What was the sympton's before failure? I had a couple low beam issues but seem to go away after playing with the switch otherwise been flawless for 5 yrs.
Logged
Ramie
Member
*****
Posts: 1318


2001 I/S St. Michael MN


« Reply #6 on: May 15, 2022, 04:24:24 PM »

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/H4_Kits/h4_kits.html
Logged

“I am not a courageous person by nature. I have simply discovered that, at certain key moments in this life, you must find courage in yourself, in order to move forward and live. It is like a muscle and it must be exercised, first a little, and then more and more.  A deep breath and a leap.”
Pappy!
Member
*****
Posts: 5710


Central Florida - Eustis


« Reply #7 on: May 15, 2022, 04:26:41 PM »

No low beam. In that Heat shrink "chunk" behind the headlight he (BonS) has a printed circuit and two tiny 10A relays. One for low beam and one for high beam. The low beam was toast. Easy to check as you can either just plug in your headlight to the original harness and see if it works or check your bulb with an ohmeter and the wiring with a voltmeter. Can supply a pic of whats in the heat shrink if you like.
« Last Edit: May 15, 2022, 04:28:56 PM by Pappy! » Logged
Avanti
Member
*****
Posts: 1403


Stoughton, Wisconsin


« Reply #8 on: May 15, 2022, 05:17:56 PM »

Some of the early ones had corrosion problems. 
Logged

Bagger John - #3785
Member
*****
Posts: 1952



« Reply #9 on: May 17, 2022, 12:57:58 PM »

I'll have to find the P/Ns but there are Bosch relays ideal for this application. Waterproof and with a built-in anti-spike diode.
Logged
Pappy!
Member
*****
Posts: 5710


Central Florida - Eustis


« Reply #10 on: May 17, 2022, 06:30:27 PM »

I like those little 20A Panasonics that Eastern Beaver installs but the anti-spike gizmo sounds good as well.
Logged
pais
Member
*****
Posts: 723


One more turn should do it!

Kent, Ohio


« Reply #11 on: September 24, 2022, 07:04:49 AM »

No low beam. In that Heat shrink "chunk" behind the headlight he (BonS) has a printed circuit and two tiny 10A relays. One for low beam and one for high beam. The low beam was toast. Easy to check as you can either just plug in your headlight to the original harness and see if it works or check your bulb with an ohmeter and the wiring with a voltmeter. Can supply a pic of whats in the heat shrink if you like.

My headlight is beginning to act up.
Light comes when I turn key to start.
Light goes out when I start the bike.
Light comes back on after start up / bike running.
When I try to use high beams light goes out completely.
For a awhile light would come back on when I would go back to low beam. Sometimes not. I would turn bike off and restart and light would come back on.
Friday morning on my way to work in the dark. Needed high beams and light went out would not come back on at all.
Tried the coast, turn off bike and restart no go.
All other lights function throughout these examples.
Start up at end of work day and light is on.
Is this similar to what you guys were having with your Smart Switch?
I don't remember how long I've had it. I think I went LED with the headlight at the same time if not, not long after.
Logged

Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it!

longrider
Member
*****
Posts: 557


Vernon, B.C. Canada


« Reply #12 on: September 24, 2022, 09:07:28 AM »

When was the last time you cleaned/lubricated the start button on the right side.   
Logged
98valk
Member
*****
Posts: 13441


South Jersey


« Reply #13 on: September 24, 2022, 11:05:57 AM »

might be some good info here

https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/led-turn-signals-flasher-relays-and-diode-kits.1040879/
Logged

1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
pais
Member
*****
Posts: 723


One more turn should do it!

Kent, Ohio


« Reply #14 on: September 25, 2022, 04:17:11 AM »

When was the last time you cleaned/lubricated the start button on the right side.   

Big BF cleaned it 4 or 5yrs ago. he was in NE Ohio one Summer and did a few things for me.
Logged

Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it!

pais
Member
*****
Posts: 723


One more turn should do it!

Kent, Ohio


« Reply #15 on: October 18, 2022, 02:11:42 AM »

Smartswitch is fine. Damn starter switch was the culprit. Cleaned it Sunday and light works as it should.
Logged

Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it!

Pages: [1]   Go Up
Send this topic Print
Jump to: