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Author Topic: Belly Tank - By-pass valve  (Read 1377 times)
JimF2424
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*****
Posts: 68


Valkyrie

Gulfport MS


« on: May 21, 2022, 04:56:22 PM »

Added a belly tank a year ago, and have no regrets, works great.   I wrapped the pipes with that exhaust wool you bet the auto store.  Did both sides to keep the heat down and also bent aluminum plate and attached with a large pipe clamps to the pipe on the pump side.   I recently made a by-pass valve from the 1/2" line to the 5/16" line, this is my back up if the pump fails in the middle of no where.  I know there's still going to be 3 gallon in the belly tank, but all I would need to do is add gas to the upper tank, and get home or somewhere to replace a pump.   I was thinking that I don't want to be stuck on the side of the road trying to replace a fuel pump.  I have the by-pass in and it's working good.
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Savage
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Posts: 170

United States


« Reply #1 on: May 21, 2022, 08:59:26 PM »

Awesome. Can you send me the part numbers from the packaging for the fittings?
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Columbia, South Carolina
Foozle
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*****
Posts: 368


Lexington, KY, USA


« Reply #2 on: May 22, 2022, 06:35:39 AM »

Jim:  If you would, please post the part numbers if you have them handy.  This is a great failsafe for those of us running a belly tank. 

I also have a heat shield fashioned to keep exhaust pipe heat from adversely impacting the pump.  Even before installed the heat shield, I've never had this occur (knock on wood!); however, I had a buddy who suffered several episodes of temporary, heat-induced (presumably) pump failure.  After things cooled a bit, we were again good to go.  We both ran OEM stock exhausts - weird how his pump was affected and mine wasn't.  (He ended up using fiberglass exhaust wrap on a section of the exhaust header - which remedied the problem).

Terry
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Avanti
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Posts: 1403


Stoughton, Wisconsin


« Reply #3 on: May 22, 2022, 12:05:56 PM »

Added a belly tank a year ago, and have no regrets, works great.   I wrapped the pipes with that exhaust wool you bet the auto store.  Did both sides to keep the heat down and also bent aluminum plate and attached with a large pipe clamps to the pipe on the pump side.   I recently made a by-pass valve from the 1/2" line to the 5/16" line, this is my back up if the pump fails in the middle of no where.  I know there's still going to be 3 gallon in the belly tank, but all I would need to do is add gas to the upper tank, and get home or somewhere to replace a pump.   I was thinking that I don't want to be stuck on the side of the road trying to replace a fuel pump.  I have the by-pass in and it's working good.

Is the bypass filtered?
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Bigwolf
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Posts: 1501


Cookeville, TN


« Reply #4 on: May 23, 2022, 08:05:07 AM »

I made a pump bypass from the 5/16 petcock line to the carb lines using a Dan Mark electric shutoff.  I have a 3 way switch hooked up to power the pump in one position, and to power the Dan Mark from the opposite position.  If I put the witch to the middle position, no fuel flows.  Set up this way, my reserve switch still works whether I am running the pump or using gravity feed.

.

.
The line on the left is from the pump.  The line coming into the Dan Mark from the rear is from the petcock.  There is a T in that line from the petcock to the Dan Mark and the other side of the T feeds the belly tank.
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JimF2424
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Posts: 68


Valkyrie

Gulfport MS


« Reply #5 on: May 23, 2022, 04:32:16 PM »

The small valve I got from Amzon: Size: 3/8" NPT Male Thread x 3/8" Hose Barb
The other brass fitting I got them all from Home Depot, they have a new setup of brass fitting, at least in the store here in Gulfport MS.   Went to Lowe's, but they didn't have hardly any good fitting.  I painted the tee.   
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