The problem with most automotive LED assemblies (including many driving lights, such as the Clearwater series) is they use a PWM (pulse width modulator) to control the light's power factor. If you look at the applied waveform at the LEDs themselves with a scope, you'll see a square wave.
Circuits generating square waves are notorious propagators of harmonics. Some radio receivers take advantage of this and use the principle in calibrator circuits; such designs can produce accurately-spaced harmonics well into the VHF region.
Over the years I've battled the EMI/RFI dragon quite often when swapping from incandescent to LED lighting. The vast majority of problems are localized to the higher-power devices: Head and spotlights/driving lights. I've never encountered a noisy LED taillight, turn signal or instrument bulb.
Snap-on chokes are marginally effective at limiting EMI. I have a couple of Concours 14s, each with Clearwater Glenda (fork mount) driving lights. These bikes are also equipped with CB and amateur radio transceivers. For a while I was buying snap-on ferrites by the pound, to little avail. The issue ultimately lies with the fact that EMI must be contained within the device that's generating it, and not allowed to propagate along the power wiring - which effectively becomes an antenna. Snap-on ferrites come in different mixes (each of which works better at some frequencies than others) and without knowing the mix type, permeability and the nature of the EMI itself it's a crap shoot at best.
Search the 1500 Tech Board for a thread I posted last year about how to suppress EMI/RFI with a Daymaker headlight. That should give us a reference point to design a solution for your noise problem.
ETA:
It can be even worse when I use my turn signals.
Look at grounding of all turn signal connections - then I'd inspect all other ground connections which bolt to either frame or engine block. I see...shenanigans...with either stock or aftermarket incandescent turn signals if there's something amiss with their grounds.
