PARTS NEEDED

[pais]

First off, welcome home everybody!
Hope all had a great, safe trip @ IZ. Looking forward to pics.

I am about to do a duel tire change out and have my rims powder coated. Wondering where everyone is getting quality parts from these days? I remember seeing a parts supplier(s) having went out of biz. I do remember from ordering stuff for the Valk last time. Its usually a week to 2 week wait. Maybe more now with "supply chain" issues.

Aside from new o rings for the rear end. I will be needing new bearings front and rear because from what I read, the bearings have to come out for the powder coating process.

[hubcapsc]

I like to use partzilla these days... there's numerous ones that
work and send parts fairly quickly...

-Mike

[Jess from VA]

It was Bike Bandit that went (or is going) under and to avoid. (taking money and shipping no parts, in bankruptcy)

I've never had trouble with Pro Caliber.  https://www.procaliber.com/oem-parts?aribrand=HOM&arian=MOTORCYCLE

With wheel bearings, remember model year counts (and you didn't say).  

Also,  I've always gone with the Honda bearings, but it has been noted here before that all wheel bearings for Valk are standard industry sizes that should be available from any bearing house or other parts supplier, but to get Tier 1 quality (whatever that is; Honda's are, All-Balls aren't).  See the top left of this page.  http://www.jkozloski.com/generic_parts.htm

I don't know if your powdercoater has a bearing press.  They can be put in by you, but not just hammered in.  I kept my rear Honda ones in the freezer, discovered that my new spare (hardened steel) pinion cup was a perfect match for the very outer race of the bearings, and gently tapped them in with a rubber mallet (a few light taps did it, both times).

Having lost the crummy single row left rear bearing (like so many have) I did the double row left bearing mod by getting my spacer cut down by a machine shop (on both my interstates, as I needed new tires) (and I've had no further troubles since then).
http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/5204_bearing_mod.pdf

I use (a lot of) Belray Waterproof Grease (and a little) moly paste.  And a quart of 80-90 or 75-90 synthetic rear end dope for the pumpkin.  A 27mm axle socket.  Maybe a new Ujoint boot.

There's an aftermarket seller many (and I) have used for their Oring packs (multiple sets). Web site down, but phone number included. https://carolinabikeandtrike.com/

Also, I remember reading here that some have recently used a good quality Viton B (largest of the three) aftermarket Oring that is so fat it makes getting the wheel back on the hub a problem.  I can't remember who the seller was.

Don't forget ChrisJ's excellent Shop Talk on servicing the rear end.

[da prez]

Be sure the powder coater does not powder coat the bearing seat.  Bearings will not go in.

                                 da prez

[gordonv]

It was Bike Bandit that went (or is going) under and to avoid. (taking money and shipping no parts, in bankruptcy)

I've never had trouble with Pro Caliber.  https://www.procaliber.com/oem-parts?aribrand=HOM&arian=MOTORCYCLE

I believe they are out of Vancouver WA too.


I always go to my local brick-and-mortar store and give them a chance to match the online price, or close enough to it, as long as the price is reasonable. Parts usually come once a week, so if I order first thing monday, they are here by the weekend. Also I don't have to pay shipping or a minimum order, can buy one bolt if I want one.

If they lose all the business, where are we going to buy our bike from in the future?

[KG]

From our own shoptalk page

Order industrial bearings from a bearing store. Top of page on left

Red eye Orings some have had an issue with the large oring not allowing everything to go back together

Order from Carolina bike and trike and they come in a 3 pack so you will have them for the next 2 services

http://www.jkozloski.com/generic_parts.htm

[Serk]

I've been using Ron Ayers, they somehow manage to undercut almost everyone...

Gave a local Honda shop the opportunity to come close, they said Ron Ayers sells the parts cheaper than they can get them...

https://www.ronayers.com/

[pais]

Thanks for the replies!

Any suggestions on how to cover / plug the bearing seat so it stays covered / protected throughout the process? Any other tips for the powder coating process?

I did a tire replacement once before, since owning the Valk. I have the step by step instructions saved on my laptop. Memory so bad these days that it's like I am doing it all over for the first time. Very frustrating!

[Jess from VA]

The powdercoater should KNOW how to properly cover the bearing seats.  If this is not done, the job is worthless; or even will cost you a new set of used wheels. 

He should be able to convince you he knows, or you need another guy.

When I looked into powdercoating (some years ago), I was not interested in any goofy colors.  And high gloss colors really stand out (too much), so a satin color is the way to go if that's what you want.  Flat is a bad look in any color.   

I wanted a chrome look, or silver, or light grey to look roughly normal.  I also wanted it to last and to be easy to clean.  What I remember reading (back then) was that some of the best chrome looking stuff didn't last or weather that well.  So I had decided on a light silver or grey (maybe even in gloss) to approximate chrome, and be easy wash and wear (which was my whole purpose). 

I never got around to it, and my wheels (mainly the back where it is a bitch to polish while on the bagger bike) are dirty grey.  But they work.     

[pais]

The powdercoater should KNOW how to properly cover the bearing seats.  If this is not done, the job is worthless; or even will cost you a new set of used wheels. 

He should be able to convince you he knows, or you need another guy.

When I looked into powdercoating (some years ago), I was not interested in any goofy colors.  And high gloss colors really stand out (too much), so a satin color is the way to go if that's what you want.  Flat is a bad look in any color.   

I wanted a chrome look, or silver, or light grey to look roughly normal.  I also wanted it to last and to be easy to clean.  What I remember reading (back then) was that some of the best chrome looking stuff didn't last or weather that well.  So I had decided on a light silver or grey (maybe even in gloss) to approximate chrome, and be easy wash and wear (which was my whole purpose). 

I never got around to it, and my wheels (mainly the back where it is a bitch to polish while on the bagger bike) are dirty grey.  But they work.     

Jess, I have talked to the powder coater already. He seemed to be very  knowledgeable and said he does bike rims often and will go over step by step his procedure when I drop them off. They come highly recommended from numerous people. It does worry me about the possibility of not being "taped" off properly and having issues afterwards. I've never been one to do this type of work to the bikes I've had. As long as they run properly and look decent. I dont put $$ into stuff like this. The look of the rims drive me nuts and I have zero desire or plans to spend the time cleaning them. I am leaning towards black but I will take a look at choices when I drop them off. Owner tells me he records his work with pics and has binders full of pics to see different colors.
I have to figure out which bearings I need for my Valk. Looking at parts list it seems there are different ones based on VINs for my '97.

[MarkT]

I had mine powder coated, 3 colors.  Green, black in the "spoke" areas, and clear around the edge.  In case I dinged it a little when changing tires.  The yahoo got powder in all the bearing races, in all the threaded holes, and where the drive cushions go.  Even after I reminded him not to - which I shouldn't have had to, this is obvious especially for a shop who purports to know what they are doing.  He took over twice as long as he promised - almost made me miss the trip to Inzane - though I had allowed him extra time, he added a month.  He also screwed up the color shade - mismatched to his own work.  I made him re-do it.  I had told him, do a good job, I'll send all my friends.  Instead I told them to stay away.  He's out of business now.  So I had to clean out the powder in those places.  Which left the bearings loose.  Then had to use Loctite 680 Retaining Compound to re-seat them.  
Go to a powder coater who is experienced at motorcycle wheels.  I was trying to help this guy, supporting his business.  Instead I got burnt for that.  My powder oven is not big enough for wheels - I only powder my products that will fit in my re-purposed kitchen oven.  eg, lift adapters, footpeg extenders, parking pucks, various custom brackets, BigFoot sidestands (clear to protect chrome).

Screws can be threaded in to the threaded holes to block the powder.  There is hi-temp tape made to withstand the powder oven heat.  Also plugs for that.  Amazon and Eastwood list those.  If he's a qualified powder coater he should have them.

[h13man]

Service Honda Springfeild, IL is my usual go to OEM supplier. Bearings, I would go to a industrial motion supplier and order Japanese made bearings.

[Pappy!]

Have been pretty satisfied with the pricing and service from my local dealer.
BUT......yesterday I priced 11 parts including shipping from RON AYERS and it beat the local dealer by more than $25.
Looks like Ron just gained another customer.

[MAD6Gun]

I've been using Ron Ayers, they somehow manage to undercut almost everyone...

Gave a local Honda shop the opportunity to come close, they said Ron Ayers sells the parts cheaper than they can get them...

https://www.ronayers.com/

 That's who I use but they charge a lot for shipping if under $129 order. For a few things I use my local dealer. He will match Partszilla prices but will NOT match Ron Ayres. Told me "he can't understand how they sell parts so cheep".