Rear Wheel Bearings

[pais]

I was cleaning my rear wheel and realized I have a crunchy bearing on the left (brake disc) side. I just want to replace with stock set up. What number bearings do I need for each side? I've scoured the site and it's a bit confusing.
I hope I can find them locally. I do not have time to wait on delivery. I was hoping to have it put back together today. Planning on the Yooper ride at the end of the week.
Never did the bearings on this. Any tips or tricks on getting old ones out and new ones in?

[The emperor has no clothes]

From our “generic parts page” I think you should be able to get them at a bearing shop. I doubt any are open on Sunday though.



Wheel Bearings
1997 Front 6004-2RS

1998-2000
Front, 6204-2RS or  6204LL
And all models left rear 6204-2RS or  6204LL
(same bearing different mfg.) 6204 is size, letters indicate sealed both sides. See below about seal designation
 
1997-2000 All right rear  5204?? Double Row Angular Contact Bearing
They need to be sealed both sides.
MRC #5204ZZ
RSR #5204EE
IKS #52042RS
The list goes on, and on. Just get a 5204 that is sealed on both sides. Mfg's use different suffixes to designate seal configuration. The list would be as long as my arm. And if you ask for a 5204 2RS and the child behind the counter knows nothing about bearings, he may tell you they don't have it. But they do have 5204ZZ's. But that isn't what you asked for.
If you have a "bearing house" nearby go there and ask for a 5204 with seals on both sides, then keep a spare at home. They only cost about $11

[Jess from VA]

Any tips or tricks on getting old ones out and new ones in?

You don't need to save the old ones, I knocked them out from the opposite sides.  Understanding you don't want to damage the pockets in any way.  

Putting your new ones in the freezer and the wheel in the sun may make them nearly drop in.

It turned out that my spare pinion cup (hardened steel) was the exact perfect size to lay over the very outer race of the bearings to gently tap them in to the pockets (with frozen bearing and hot wheel) (and rubber mallet).

[Chrisj CMA]

I was cleaning my rear wheel and realized I have a crunchy bearing on the left (brake disc) side. I just want to replace with stock set up. What number bearings do I need for each side? I've scoured the site and it's a bit confusing.
I hope I can find them locally. I do not have time to wait on delivery. I was hoping to have it put back together today. Planning on the Yooper ride at the end of the week.
Never did the bearings on this. Any tips or tricks on getting old ones out and new ones in?

It’s very easy for the internal spacer to be interfering with your smoothness test. Be sure it’s not drooped down making the bearing feel rough.

[Chrisj CMA]

For removal. This is the best I have ever used.

 

Looks like this for pilot bearing use



I ground the fingers to a point for wheel bearing removal



$30 at O Reilly’s Auto Parts. You do have rent the slide hammer. Here it’s a free rental.

[mello dude]

^^^^^^Thanks for that Chris 

[pais]

For removal. This is the best I have ever used.

 

Looks like this for pilot bearing use



I ground the fingers to a point for wheel bearing removal



$30 at O Reilly’s Auto Parts. You do have rent the slide hammer. Here it’s a free rental.

Chris,
I have the slide and bearing puller adapter from O'reilly's. I gave it a quick try but it did not seem to want to work. It does not grab the bearing very well. 1 or 2 smacks and out comes the tool and not the bearing.
I was worried I would damage the spacer inside if I was pushing those ears out against too much?

[Chrisj CMA]

For removal. This is the best I have ever used.

 

Looks like this for pilot bearing use



I ground the fingers to a point for wheel bearing removal



$30 at O Reilly’s Auto Parts. You do have rent the slide hammer. Here it’s a free rental.

Chris,
I have the slide and bearing puller adapter from O'reilly's. I gave it a quick try but it did not seem to want to work. It does not grab the bearing very well. 1 or 2 smacks and out comes the tool and not the bearing.
I was worried I would damage the spacer inside if I was pushing those ears out against too much?

Yep same thing got me until I ground the fingers to a point. You have to carefully set the point between the bearing and spacer and then when you tighten it you can see the bearing move. Tap tighten tap tighten a couple times then you have it captured and it’s out like butter

[Rio Wil]

Use a 3/8 to 1/2 in steel rod about 12-16 or so inches long and grind a flat spot on the end....flatter the better, gives a nice sharp edge to grab the bearing inner race. The spacer usually move sideways enough to get a tiny bite on the race......put significant sideways pressure on the rod and strike hard and sharply. It probably will pop off several times, but rotate the rod to get a fresh bite.....a hardened rod works best....but hit hard and fast.....then the other side is easy.....

[Chrisj CMA]

Use a 3/8 to 1/2 in steel rod about 12-16 or so inches long and grind a flat spot on the end....flatter the better, gives a nice sharp edge to grab the bearing inner race. The spacer usually move sideways enough to get a tiny bite on the race......put significant sideways pressure on the rod and strike hard and sharply. It probably will pop off several times, but rotate the rod to get a fresh bite.....a hardened rod works best....but hit hard and fast.....then the other side is easy.....

Too much chance to damage the bearing seat that way. If that’s all you gave sure, with care. But a slide hammer is much better

[pais]

Well, I decided against grinding down the bearing puller like Chris did. I took the borrowed tools back to O'reilly's and decided to buy this one:

https://www.harborfreight.com/slide-hammer-and-bearing-puller-set-5-pc-62601.html?_br_psugg_q=slide+hammers

I obviously wasn't going to grind down the borrowed puller and I did not like it enough to buy it and grind it down. The above style seemed like the way to go. The review's on HF site were pretty good so I rolled the dice. Wish I would have done it earlier today. Once I got home and took the puller out of the packaging. The left side bearing was out in a matter of minutes. I pounded the other one out. Start to finish about 8 minutes for both.
Hopefully find the bearings tomorrow and get them in after work.
Any tips on getting them in? I may wait until Tuesday so they can sit in the freezer for awhile.

[Chrisj CMA]

Put the new bearings in the freezer overnight. Also heat the hub with a head gun. Rub sone light oil like 3 in 1 on the bearing outer race and it will slide in much easier

[Rio Wil]

Use a 3/8 to 1/2 in steel rod about 12-16 or so inches long and grind a flat spot on the end....flatter the better, gives a nice sharp edge to grab the bearing inner race. The spacer usually move sideways enough to get a tiny bite on the race......put significant sideways pressure on the rod and strike hard and sharply. It probably will pop off several times, but rotate the rod to get a fresh bite.....a hardened rod works best....but hit hard and fast.....then the other side is easy.....

Too much chance to damage the bearing seat that way. If that’s all you gave sure, with care. But a slide hammer is much better

Not al all, once you get even 20-30 thou clearance, it easy to tap around the bearing and out it comes...