Interstate starter switch

[99ISrdr]

Today the bike failed to start immediately after a short ride. Seems like it's probably the starter switch. It's acted up a couple times lately before failing today. There's nothing when the button is depressed other than the light going off. Read the posts and the shoptalk article on switch servicing. I want to clean the contacts. Seems easy enough. But....when I removed the 2 housing screws, expecting the bottom portion to release, exposing the switch, like the article explains...the top portion released leaving the bottom portion adhered to the handlebar, making it impossible to get to the switch. The shoptalk article said the throttle cables wouldn't have to be messed with. But....It seems the throttle cables are what's holding the bottom housing portion to the handlebar as they run from the sleeve down through the bottom housing. I don't know if the Interstates are different. Is this right, the cables actually do need to be removed to get to the switch. Maybe I'm missing something. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

[Chrisj CMA]

Whack it lightly with a plastic/rubber mallet.  It will come off

[99ISrdr]

Yeah, I realized the post on the lower housing was connected with the handlebar and got it loose. The throttle cables are still too tight for me to get good access to the switch. Looks like they need to be disconnected. Maybe the tourer and std are different, not sure.

[JimC]

loosen the bars and slide them sideways
Jim

[Hook#3287]

loosen the bars and slide them sideways
Jim

Protect the gas tank first.

[RonW]

Mark the bars too. A single line or dot adjacent the left riser should do. It's better to use a piece of tape. Ink rubs off too easily on chrome.

[99ISrdr]

Went out today, shot a little contact cleaner directly on the button slide, hoping to carry some to the contact area. It started twice, then the lights blew. I don't mess too much with electrical problems, so...it's going to the shop. Thanks for the input though. Shop can't get me in for a month. Looks like the C14's getting some mileage for a while now.

[RonW]

You should take the pushbutton assembly apart otherwise doubt the contact cleaner would get to the contacts. The parts that you are working on are more mechanical than electrical. (The rear screw on the clamshell is longer than the front screw, 6mm x 25mm vrs. 6mm x 20mm respectively).

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,122555.msg1249301.html#msg1249301





4 barbs clip the white box to the stationary contact plate (black lid).



..... for reference [Tourer/Standard, though].

[99ISrdr]

I've got no lights now when I turn the ignition on. I think the headlights/dash light contacts are in the starter switch also? If so, I'm assuming that a bad starter switch could also cause the headlights and dash lights to go out too. Is that the case also? If so, I may slide the bars to see if I can get the cables off to get to the switch.

[Chrisj CMA]

I've got no lights now when I turn the ignition on. I think the headlights/dash light contacts are in the starter switch also? If so, I'm assuming that a bad starter switch could also cause the headlights and dash lights to go out too. Is that the case also? If so, I may slide the bars to see if I can get the cables off to get to the switch.

Ok two things. I’ve never done the starter button maintenance on an IS so I can’t be positive about the cables stopping the progress. However you shouldn’t have to disconnect the cables, just slide the whole assembly off the end of the bar and then work on the switch with cables still attached.

[99ISrdr]

I have to get by the cables to get the bottom housing off the bars enough to get to the switch. The cables run from the top of the sleeve down through two holes in the bottom housing, not allowing enough room from the bars to get to the switch in the bottom housing. Seems as though I need to remove the cables and the bottom housing will drop, exposing the switch. Unless I'm having a "duh" moment and missing something. It certainly wouldn't be the first time. I'll give it a shot. Thanks for all the suggestions.

[RonW]

You are correct, the I/S right-side clamshell is different regarding the throttle cables. Standard/Tourer's throttle cables goes through the top half of the clamshell leaving the bottom clamshell more free.

Perhaps an I/S owner will chime in. Actually the I/S right side clamshell is used on Tourer/Standard models when upgrading to taller risers to gain more slack on the throttle cables. So they may also know the work around. I guess you could loosen the throttle cables at the carb end but make sure to mark the existing position of the coupling nuts. I did that when replacing cables.

[RonW]

"I've got no lights now when I turn the ignition on. I think the headlights/dash light contacts are in the starter switch also? If so, I'm assuming that a bad starter switch could also cause the headlights and dash lights to go out too. Is that the case also?"

On the Tourer/Standard the dash light wires aren't part of the starter switch so the dash light wouldn't go off. I'm unfamiliar with the I/S wiring.

There's a copper bridge on the start button that when the start button is pressed in, the copper bridge bridges the inner pair of contacts (starter circuit), and when a return spring retracts the start button out, the copper bridge bridges the outer pair of contacts (headlights circuit), the default position. If the copper bridge is defective it won't be able to bridge neither the inner and outer pair of contacts. So, no headlights nor start up.

Defective copper bridge, right pic.

[99ISrdr]

So a defective copper bridge could cause no lights to come on when turning the ignition key? Now, when turning the ignition key...nothing. Initially when it wasn't starting, the lights would come on and go out as I pressed the starter button, as it was supposed to. Then one time when trying to start it again, after shooting some contact cleaner on the button slider, the lights went out....now nothing. Wondering if it could just be the starter switch or now if maybe the starter relay or a fuse went out. Thanks for the info, much appreciated.

Obviously I'm not an electrical guy. So I'm looking into info on checking the starter relay now. Will check fuses tomorrow. Unfortunately a trip to the shop is looking more likely now.

[RonW]

You really should inspect the copper bridge in the start button. I suggest you start another thread titled, "How do you remove the right clamshell from an I/S handlebar?" or something to that effect. Mention the problem you're having with the throttle cables exiting the lower clamshell on an I/S.

Some Tourer/Standard members have used the I/S right-side clamshell to gain slack for the throttle cables after installing taller risers. That said, they might have never ever removed the I/S clamshell.

[99ISrdr]

Good idea, think that's what I'll do. Thanks

[Ramie]

Normally start switches on the I/S aren't a problem because they use septate relays for High and Low beam headlights.   I think that's why you won't find many on the board here with Interstates that have had to take the start switch apart.

[gordonv]

Do you still have a charged battery? no power.

[RonW]

Normally start switches on the I/S aren't a problem because they use septate relays for High and Low beam headlights.  

I think that's why you won't find many on the board here with Interstates that have had to take the start switch apart.

I second that. but since 99ISrdr stated that the headlight also stopped working, I surmised that the movable contact (copper bridge) which bridges both the starter contacts and the headlight contacts was the culprit. When I suggested inspecting the start button, I wasn't aware the hassle of taking apart the I/S right-side clamshell. Takes just a few minutes on a Tourer/Standard even if it doesn't uncover the problem.

Perhaps it's the main fuse. Or the red cap isn't fully plugged in the green thingie (A, below). Or, B the retention barb has worn out its notch in the plastic red cap such that when you push the red cap down it no longer takes the female blade terminal along with it. Just because the red cap latches doesn't always guarantee the female blade terminals got seated on it's prongs. Specifically the blade terminal with the red wire that supplies the keybox with electricity.

My experience was the retention barb slipped from its notch because it wasn't re-bent after removing the female blade terminal from the red cap. The retention barb has to be pried flat to release it from its slot but the retention barb doesn't spring fully back on its own.