Fork oil question.

[F6Ghostrider VRCC #32501]

So I tried searching this subject and didn’t find a definitive answer. Is there a sure fire way to remove all of the fork oil without removing the wheel and the fork? I’ve heard about a syringe and vinyl tubing, but it seems all of the fluid cannot be removed. I had the front wheel off the other day changing bearings and noticed the right fork easily moved to the top and bottomed out. The left is good. I have a 98 Tourer with 214,000 miles. I replaced the fork seals a few years ago and have not noticed any fluid leaking. That would be obvious due to the mess it makes collecting road grime. I’ll tear it all down again if I have to, but not looking forward to it.
Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks, Jeff.

[sandy]

It could be that the dampener rod has backed out of the fork cap. When reinstalling the cap, be sure to put a wrench on it and give it a tug with a wrench while holding the cap.

[turtle254]

No ... if I every have the fork serviced, I think I'm going to try and drill and tap a small hole at the bottom
so I can change the fork oil on the bike.

[98valk]

No ... if I every have the fork serviced, I think I'm going to try and drill and tap a small hole at the bottom
so I can change the fork oil on the bike.

there was a member that did that a decade ago and documented the procedure. I think it was before the present forum and was in the tech archives but was lost going to the now current forum system.

[turtle254]

Think you could find it?

[h13man]

You can drain but still require tire/axle being removed. A fellow member says remove the seal retaining clip and jerk out the lower leg/pipe but definitely messy doing it this way. It's a alternative way to change seals etc. thus how he came up with this idea w/o completely removing the forks.

[F6Ghostrider VRCC #32501]

Thanks for the feedback fellas. I think I’ll just pull the lower fork pipes, replace the seals and go back with fresh fluid. Do it right the first time so I don’t keep pulling my hair out nickle and diming it.

[RonW]

There ain't that many internal parts to the Right fork (4 not included the damper rod, here, enlarge the graphic). The only snag I have is getting the washer back on top of the collar tube. Also, I don't think it's absolutely necessary to remove the damper rod. Raymore Repairs doesn't remove the fender which is possible if removing only the Right or Left fork.

[hubcapsc]

I think I’ll just pull the lower fork pipes, replace the seals and go back with fresh fluid. Do it right the first time

Of the two, I'd go with doing it right the first time 

-Mike

[Speedy Coop]

Use oem Honda seals or stand the chance of doing it over down the road! Do not ask me how I know this!

[F6Ghostrider VRCC #32501]

I always use Honda OEM parts. Lessons learned you might say.
I watched the attached You Tube video from Raymore Repairs. He makes it look so easy. All you need are the right tools.
So I guess my burning question if anyone knows the answer, is, “Can I accomplish a complete fluid change by pulling the bottom tube?” I did that a few years ago and made a huge mess with oil all over the place. I just don’t know about getting the fluid out of the damper tube.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,Jeff.

[hubcapsc]

It would be... hard... to get the fluid out of the damper tube, and way
harder to get it back in...

Here's me pumping my damper back to full again... the first few pull it
dropped like a rock, as I lifted it back and forth it pumped back to full
and started dropping slowly like a hydraulic damper should...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tikm2dBQ56I

-Mike

[F6Ghostrider VRCC #32501]

Does anyone know what size and length to use for the socket head bolt on the bottom of the right fork?

[hubcapsc]

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,108179.msg1083331.html#msg1083331

I don't remember the size... it's not for draining, and I remember it being awkward to
re-tighten it...

-Mike

[98valk]

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,108179.msg1083331.html#msg1083331

I don't remember the size... it's not for draining, and I remember it being awkward to
re-tighten it...

-Mike

nice fork write up. Bookmarked
Thanks

[hubcapsc]

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,108179.msg1083331.html#msg1083331

I don't remember the size... it's not for draining, and I remember it being awkward to
re-tighten it...

-Mike

nice fork write up. Bookmarked
Thanks

I still watch Gunsmoke at 1:00 many days... 

-Mike

[F6Ghostrider VRCC #32501]

I’ll  need to buy a long hex wrench set and wanted to know if it’s metric or SAE.

[Valker]

All original Honda fasteners are metric.

[F6Ghostrider VRCC #32501]

Good lookin out. Guess I never thought about it that way. When I do projects on my 98, I gotta break out the metric and SAE tools.

[Knapdog]

All original Honda fasteners are metric.

I'm not surprised...... apart from the front axle nut on my bike. One of my Imperial sockets fits far better than the nearest metric.

[Valker]

All original Honda fasteners are metric.

I'm not surprised...... apart from the front axle nut on my bike. One of my Imperial sockets fits far better than the nearest metric.

Might check the socket. A 22mm fits mine perfectly.

[Knapdog]

All original Honda fasteners are metric.

I'm not surprised...... apart from the front axle nut on my bike. One of my Imperial sockets fits far better than the nearest metric.

Might check the socket. A 22mm fits mine perfectly.

You're right. Have double checked. The 22mm socket does have a better fit than the 7/8" I tried.

[98valk]

All original Honda fasteners are metric.

I'm not surprised...... apart from the front axle nut on my bike. One of my Imperial sockets fits far better than the nearest metric.

Might check the socket. A 22mm fits mine perfectly.

You're right. Have double checked. The 22mm socket does have a better fit than the 7/8" I tried.

https://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/metrictosae.htm
Emergency Use of S.A.E. (American) Wrenches On Metric Fasteners