Front fork rebuild

[shabelj]

i have a quote of $1k to replace springs,  all seals and fluid on 00 interstate.   Does this sound like a fair price on the job?

[turtle254]

if I every have the fork serviced, I think I'm going to try and drill and tap a small hole at the bottom(side)
so I can change the fork oil on the bike.

[sandy]

Springs are $100. All seals and bushings are about $150. That’s a LOT of labor. I’d check around before paying that much.

Are you replacing OEM springs or going to Progressives?

[hubcapsc]

i have a quote of $1k to replace springs,  all seals and fluid on 00 interstate.   Does this sound like a fair price on the job?

If you could do a good job yourself, it would be a lot less expensive.

If that's not an option, then the first thing to focus on is
who can you pay to do a good job? It is easy to
find someone to do a poor job for a lot of money.

If I couldn't do it myself, and the only person I thought
was competent charged $1,000.00, I'd go for it. Heck,
I guess I did pay Traxxion about $1,000.00 for the fork
part of the suspension upgrade on Chewy (my 1800 Valk)...

-Mike "they put more than springs in there..."

EDIT: for $849.95 Traxxion would upgrade your forks to way better than stock...

[shabelj]

Upgrading to progressive...

[Jess from VA]

IMHO, progressive springs are maybe 10-15% better than stock springs (both being new, and everything else being equal).

For whatever the reason, both dealers (or aftermarket shops) and owners often do Valk fork rebuilds that turn out to be rock hard, jarring front suspension.  Years ago, my rock hard shock rebuild cost about $600 (dealer).

There are more than a few stories like this on here over the years. 

Whatever you pay, try to avoid this result.

The solution may be to use the recommended 10wt fork oil, with 1 1/5 ounces less than called for on each side.

[98valk]

i have a quote of $1k to replace springs,  all seals and fluid on 00 interstate.   Does this sound like a fair price on the job?

if u want a much better ride use forks from a std/tourer model with the stronger progressive springs.
The I/S forks will always give a harsh ride over smaller bumps. all due to increased compression damping and rebound was also decreased, due to weight of fairing and larger fuel tank. Both changes are the wrong thing to do. The correct thing to do which honda didn't do was to use stronger oem springs, but that would have cost more $$$$ over just using the same springs across the line, so they tried to compensate by incorrectly changing the fork valving.
Or use your I/S forks and experiment with different weight suspension fluids, but remember the number on the bottle are not standardize like motor oil numbers are.
https://www.visordown.com/features/workshop/suspension-know-how

https://www.peterverdone.com/suspension-fluids/

front fork springs
« on: May 03, 2013, 09:26:51 PM »
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Just in case anyone wants this info. The Valkyrie stock fork springs are 13.3" long, the Valk. Progressive #11-1513 are 12.5", the VTX 1800 Progressive #11-1520 are 12.5" and the  Goldwing Progressive #11-1521 are 13.5" long. All will work in the Valk. with the 1521 giving you max. fork height and a decent if somewhat stiff ride with minimal dip on front brake application. The 1513 and 1520 lower the front by maybe 1" under stock.
https://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,70467.0.html