New to me Interstate. I have questions about the suspension

[Peelandwin]

Just picked up a 1999 Valkyrie on Saturday. I love the bike but it does have a few issues.

The front right fork is leaking and the front suspension is too soft. I have read that the Interstate forks are different than the Standard/Tourer forks but I'm not sure what that means exactly.

I'd like to make the ride firmer and the bike a bit taller. It's been a while but I had a Valkyrie 15 years ago and I'm sure that bike had more clearance.

I think that replacing the fork seals and fluid will be necessary. The Honda dealerships around here (Katy, TX) won't work on a bike this old so I've ordered the service manual and I'm going to try to tackle this myself.

I would appreciate any advice y'all might share especially regarding the suspension. I'm think progressives front and back, it looks like people prefer the 444s in the rear over the 412s. Really unsure about what to do about the forks springs.

John in Katy

[Ramie]

There's been a couple post not to long ago on forks, here's one of them.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,122814.0.html

There are videos out there on redoing the forks, don't think there's much difference between the I/S and the other's when it comes to the forks.

[98valk]

there is a difference of the valving of the std/tourer vs I/S forks

if u want a much better ride use forks from a std/tourer model with the stronger progressive springs.
The I/S forks will always give a harsh ride over smaller bumps. all due to increased compression damping and rebound was also decreased, due to weight of fairing and larger fuel tank. Both changes are the wrong thing to do. The correct thing to do which honda didn't do was to use stronger oem springs, but that would have cost more $$$$ over just using the same springs across the line, so they tried to compensate by incorrectly changing the fork valving.
Or use your I/S forks and experiment with different weight suspension fluids, but remember the number on the bottle are not standardize like motor oil numbers are.
https://www.visordown.com/features/workshop/suspension-know-how

https://www.peterverdone.com/suspension-fluids/

front fork springs
« on: May 03, 2013, 09:26:51 PM »
Reply with quoteQuote
Just in case anyone wants this info. The Valkyrie stock fork springs are 13.3" long, the Valk. Progressive #11-1513 are 12.5", the VTX 1800 Progressive #11-1520 are 12.5" and the  Goldwing Progressive #11-1521 are 13.5" long. All will work in the Valk. with the 1521 giving you max. fork height and a decent if somewhat stiff ride with minimal dip on front brake application. The 1513 and 1520 lower the front by maybe 1" under stock.
https://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,70467.0.html

[longrider]

My personal experience.  Fork seals are not difficult to install.  Follow the manual and you should have no trouble.  Be sure and replace the slider bushings as well.  I ordered the seal driver many years ago and it works well.   Before you spend the money on Progressives like I did just put in 10 weight oil and try it.  I like the stiff ride of the Progressives but they seem to cause a jarring feeling on deep joints in the pavement.  Remember to  loosen the top pinch bolts BEFORE you try and remove the top cap.  

[..]

Something I wrote up a long time ago.

Photos I took

https://postimg.cc/gallery/7ZQt2pj

Cover tank etc with towels/rags

Bike on lift front wheel high enough to get a small jack under
Undo pinch bolts at fork caps
Loosen fork caps until completely unthreaded
Raise front wheel so forks compress completely

Remove right front fork cap. Have to try and grip the flat sided-round sided nut under the right fork cap. 
Can't use a wrench cause there are a couple of small flange parts sticking out. Hold this in place and undo fork cap.
Count threads exposed
Undo flat sided-round sided nut about half way up the threaded portion
Thread bolt you have found in your workshop into hole
Make sure it's a good fit
Remove and wrap a coat hanger around it
Screw back in
Using a flat bladed screwdriver prise the flat sided-round sided nut away from the tube below to remove collar
Remove collar that has a slot
Slide the shiny bit up over your bolt and coat hanger

Let front wheel jack down

Now use another coat hanger with a slight hook on the end and fish down in the fork tube and remove the spring. SLOWLY to let the oil drain off. This is why you covered up in the beginning with towels/rags
Slide new spring back over

Raise front wheel back up

Slide shiny bit back over wire and bolt
Replace collar
Remove bolt you have found in your workshop and turn flat sided-round sided nut down until you get to the amount of threads you counted earlier

Left fork

Insert special tool and undo completely remove
Hook out fork spring SLOWLY to let oil drain off. Washer comes with it.
Insert new spring AND then washer
Now using special tool screw part back on.
Needs 2 people cause you are pushing against the spring

Lower front wheel

Wait a couple of minutes for oil to drain down inside tube and then measure from top of fork tube. I did it with a bit of wood dowel as a dipstick. Adjust oil level as needed

Screw on fork caps. Tighten pinch bolts. Bounce forks a couple of times

Go for a short SLOW ride and test forks.

If OK drink beer.

If not OK I can't be held responsible

[Peelandwin]

Thanks for the info. I probably won't replace the forks, at least not right now. I do prefer a somewhat stiffer ride.

I had seen that quote about the progressive spring lengths but haven't found any other information yet. Has anyone put the Goldwing progressives on a Valkyrie? I would definitely like more ground clearance along with a firmer ride.

there is a difference of the valving of the std/tourer vs I/S forks

if u want a much better ride use forks from a std/tourer model with the stronger progressive springs.
The I/S forks will always give a harsh ride over smaller bumps. all due to increased compression damping and rebound was also decreased, due to weight of fairing and larger fuel tank. Both changes are the wrong thing to do. The correct thing to do which honda didn't do was to use stronger oem springs, but that would have cost more $$$$ over just using the same springs across the line, so they tried to compensate by incorrectly changing the fork valving.
Or use your I/S forks and experiment with different weight suspension fluids, but remember the number on the bottle are not standardize like motor oil numbers are.
https://www.visordown.com/features/workshop/suspension-know-how

https://www.peterverdone.com/suspension-fluids/

front fork springs
« on: May 03, 2013, 09:26:51 PM »
Reply with quoteQuote
Just in case anyone wants this info. The Valkyrie stock fork springs are 13.3" long, the Valk. Progressive #11-1513 are 12.5", the VTX 1800 Progressive #11-1520 are 12.5" and the  Goldwing Progressive #11-1521 are 13.5" long. All will work in the Valk. with the 1521 giving you max. fork height and a decent if somewhat stiff ride with minimal dip on front brake application. The 1513 and 1520 lower the front by maybe 1" under stock.
https://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,70467.0.html

[Peelandwin]

Thanks, I think that is what I will do. Even if I swap springs and/or shocks later I want to start with a healthy bike.

My personal experience.  Fork seals are not difficult to install.  Follow the manual and you should have no trouble.  Be sure and replace the slider bushings as well.  I ordered the seal driver many years ago and it works well.   Before you spend the money on Progressives like I did just put in 10 weight oil and try it.  I like the stiff ride of the Progressives but they seem to cause a jarring feeling on deep joints in the pavement.  Remember to  loosen the top pinch bolts BEFORE you try and remove the top cap.  

[hubcapsc]

My personal experience.  Fork seals are not difficult to install.  Follow the manual and you should have no trouble.  Be sure and replace the slider bushings as well.

 ^ This ^

The manual lists all the wear parts, bushings and what not... The several times I've done it I just ordered the
wear  parts ahead of time so I'd have them all when the forks were apart. I think Progressive springs are
an easy giant upgrade to do while the forks are apart, too... there were a lot of tired rusty parts on my bike
when I got it, including the shocks... I got Progressive shocks right away and have always been glad I did.
I'm on my second set now... Bitubo brand shocks are good too, my friend got some from Traxxion (a Georgia
suspension shop) and they helped him get them sized correctly.





-Mike

[Bagger John - #3785]

Years ago we did Max's I/S at a Tech Session hosted by Bones and Wicked Wanda. I rebuilt the forks (seals, guides, etc.) and replaced the springs with Progressives. Fork oil used was 20wt. No change to the damper assemblies or other modifications were done.

Max liked the ride. FWIW, he was about 290lbs at the time.

I went with Hyperpro springs in my TourerState's forks (a '99 Tourer set up as an I/S) and used 15wt oil. I am happy with the results - definitely better than the stock springs.