Water leak in auto

[Jersey mike]

So we’ve had 5 days and about 8” of rain fall. Went to move my daughter’s car yesterday and saw wetness in the driver’s side rear floor.

2003 Hyundai Sonata. Saturated floor behind drivers seat. Traced that up to the drivers side rear passenger seat which led me up to the “C” pillar and the grab handle over the window was wet.

Headliner was dry with the exception near the grab handle and window. Trunk was dry also.

This led me to believe the issue is under the outside roof molding which leads to the back glass. The roof molding runs the length of the car from windshield to back glass.

Does anyone know how these types of roof trim molding remove? I know there are clips positioned along the underside that fasten it to the roof just not sure how to release the molding from the clip OR release the clip from the body. I found 1 video on YouTube but wasn’t too clear.

Also, I may need to remove the “C” pillar interior plastic trim so I can air test and come to a conclusion where the leak is. Anyone with any idea how those plastic trim pieces release?

I have a Haynes book on the car but nothing is covered regarding that.

I did some research online and found 1 similar situation on a Hyundai forum from 2013 that a person posted about. Said it was from the weld seam under the roof molding.

Thank in advance for any advice.

Mike

[da prez]

  I would do a specific search of the exact vehicle.  Someone out there has had the same problem and found an answer.  Good luck.

                                               da prez

[Robert]

Its hard to get information on this issue since its not widely published and more of a trial and error thing. Some of those moldings are the seal themselves and crack when you remove them.  If it is the seam to really seal it you may have to remove the headliner to do the job.  I would also recommend removing the drain plug in the floor if it has it, otherwise drilling a hole for any water to drain. Unfortunately in this day and age this is not uncommon.

[Jersey mike]

I had a funny feeling of not a lot of responses but it was worth a shot.

Thanks to everyone who looked though.

I *think* I found the moldings and clips are separate and are available through dealer and possibly other online sources.

Ran the car yesterday with A/C on high heat and windows closed for awhile and vacuumed the daylights out of the whole area that was wet. Today was a beautiful day so the windows were wide open all day. Car is now dry.

A bit more research before the weekend but it’s supposed to be nice Saturday so I’ll give it a shot…nothing ventured nothing gained, beside what could go wrong 

Thanks guys

[carolinarider09]

I did not respond because the search I did was negative.  I did look on YouTube and did a couple of DuckDuckGo searches but nothing came back that was similar to the problem you described.

Personally, I have never experienced that kind of leak, except in my 1959 MGA.   

[Jess from VA]

I had some (little) water in the back of my Promaster van after the deluge.

I discovered I had failed to fully close one of the rear doors.  When it's not fully closed, it looks fully closed to the eye.  If you try to drive away like this, the van tells you about it.

I can give no advice on your issue.  Other than to inspect all weather stripping.  Someone sitting in the car while you go at it with a hose might localize the problem.

[da prez]

  Years (long time) ago a trick to locate leaks was to close up the car , put the blowers on to pressurize the car (not on recirculate) and dust the suspected area with talcum powder to look for dust trail.
  Like I said , this is a very O L D  technique.

                                                    da prez

[Binkie]

  Years (long time) ago a trick to locate leaks was to close up the car , put the blowers on to pressurize the car (not on recirculate) and dust the suspected area with talcum powder to look for dust trail.
  Like I said , this is a very O L D  technique.

                                                    da prez

I would add that you want to tape up the vents if there are any in the door pillars. You can also use soapy water to look for air bubbles. But this really does work.

[Jersey mike]

On Saturday I dealer to see if they did have the parts necessary, they did not. The parts guy did tell me there were 7 clips on each molding.

Stopped by a couple local auto body shops, but everyone was closed.

On Sunday I took a chance removing the roof molding. Tricky but doable the clips are delicate. I pulled up 4 which was just passed the B pillar/drivers door. Lots dust and dirt under it, blew it out with air nozzle and wiped with damp cloth but found no signs of cracking or rust.

Decided to water test the upper left portion of back glass. The trim around the radius corner of the back glass has curled up slightly and left a small gap from the body. I slow poured about 12oz of water and within a minute or so the upper portion of the headliner was getting damp.

Called an auto glass repair, they’re coming today to remove and reinstall back glass with new universal aftermarket trim, at 20 years old OEM trim really isn’t necessary.

[Robert]

Called an auto glass repair, they’re coming today to remove and reinstall back glass with new universal aftermarket trim, at 20 years old OEM trim really isn’t necessary.

Its not usually the trim that actually seals the glass to the car. Trim is usually there only for looks and to hide the butyl or sealant that actually seals the glass to the car. Somecars do have the trim as a seal but the bulk don't, so no worries about OEM.

[Jersey mike]

Called an auto glass repair, they’re coming today to remove and reinstall back glass with new universal aftermarket trim, at 20 years old OEM trim really isn’t necessary.

Its not usually the trim that actually seals the glass to the car. Trim is usually there only for looks and to hide the butyl or sealant that actually seals the glass to the car. Somecars do have the trim as a seal but the bulk don't, so no worries about OEM.

Yes you’re correct, the trim around the glass is mostly just decorative, but it does keep out some water, snow, ice and debris. I’ve done many things with auto glass in the past, I should have been a little more clear. I believe the urethane which bonds/seals the glass to the pinchweld has released in that top corner. It’s not a common occurrence but it’s been known to happen. Years ago I would have done this at our shop but we’ve been out of the automotive glass area for a couple decades, it got to be a real PITA dealing with insurance companies and other aspects.

Dealing with cars post 1990 are much different than the older models which had the butyl tape and clip moldings. Urethane bonds the glass to the body so it becomes a structural part of the body which keeps the glass, especially the windshield in place during an accident.

My biggest fear right now is the possibility of rust in that area of the pinch weld and needing some serious repairs at an auto body shop. We’ll see later today.

[Robert]

My biggest fear right now is the possibility of rust in that area of the pinch weld and needing some serious repairs at an auto body shop. We’ll see later today.

That sealer does a good job and not so uncommon either, I even had to do the same thing to my truck. The channel for the glass even if it is rusted a bit they will be able to clean it, coat it and then seal it without to much problem. IF the channel is completely rusted away then you will have to repair it or put epoxy on it as an alternative. Its gets covered by the trim and the interior molding so either way should be fairly simple.

What happens if you still have water on the floor.   

[Jersey mike]

My biggest fear right now is the possibility of rust in that area of the pinch weld and needing some serious repairs at an auto body shop. We’ll see later today.

That sealer does a good job and not so uncommon either, I even had to do the same thing to my truck. The channel for the glass even if it is rusted a bit they will be able to clean it, coat it and then seal it without to much problem. IF the channel is completely rusted away then you will have to repair it or put epoxy on it as an alternative. Its gets covered by the trim and the interior molding so either way should be fairly simple.

What happens if you still have water on the floor.   

The back glass came out no issue. When it was out we looked at the area and no rust, a good thing. We did see a slight (maybe 1/16”) drop in the pinch weld at the top left radius corner (leak area) where the top meets the side, right side was a flat surface around the radius corner.

Back glass reinstalled no issue with aftermarket trim around the glass, looks good. Some heavy rain and wind in the forecast for tomorrow afternoon and night so I should find out on Friday if it leaked.

[Robert]

The back glass came out no issue. When it was out we looked at the area and no rust, a good thing. We did see a slight (maybe 1/16”) drop in the pinch weld at the top left radius corner (leak area) where the top meets the side, right side was a flat surface around the radius corner.

Back glass reinstalled no issue with aftermarket trim around the glass, looks good. Some heavy rain and wind in the forecast for tomorrow afternoon and night so I should find out on Friday if it leaked.

Why wait, the hose is always available.   
Glad nothing much.